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Military Firearm Restoration Corner

peanut

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About peanut

  • Birthday 03/17/1964

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    Jacksonville, NC

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    hghvrtt@yahoo.com

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  1. Ditto, Merry Chritsmas Everyone! Hugh
  2. Swamp, I do not know you from Adam, but I do know you are among friends here brother, not enemies. Furthermore, I think if censorship was being practiced, we would not even be having this conversation, as the title for your original post is pretty racy. (Got my attention!) Merry Christmas to All! Hugh
  3. Tackleberry, Welcome to the forum, looks like we're going to have to start taking muster around here, I'm retired USN myself, Corpsman. Nice work! That webbing came out great! Was that a first time result with that product, or did you have to experiment? Hugh
  4. Very nice work! I really like the color too. Hugh
  5. Tronman, Thank you. Yes I did use a Rustoleum metal/wood primer. I used it just to seal the wood and give the Duracoat something lay on, rather than be wicked into the pores of the wood. I am sure you could just spray the Duracoat directly on to the wood, but it would probably take multiple coats. I finished it off with a coat of Spar Urethane. No particular reason other than to give it a little added protection, and weatherproofing. You could also use the Duracoat Clear, which I did not have on hand at the time. My original plan was to have the stock in its original form, but it was just too stained. Good Luck! Hugh
  6. Brian, Thank you. It is 8mm. IMHO 8mm is a great round when properly reloaded. I have seen some really good reloads for it. Hugh
  7. Walnut, Definitely rigin enough, that is one of the reasons I built it the way I did. I was using a Shooters Ridge or something like that, it kept falling over, and losing the grip. I am glad that you want to take ideas off of it, help yourself. I got the knobs from McMasters. 96 cents a piece. 2 1/4 round, for a 3/8 16 thread bolt. Clemson, I have bought a couple of parts from Jeff. Good guy. I really like his steady rest, and it is the one that I am going to get, along with the 4 jaw chuck. I have heard nothing but good about his parts. I did not know he did trading, I will give him a call. Hugh
  8. Hello All, Thanks for all the comments! It's not that I am too neat, just do not have enough stuff yet! This is our first house. Clemson, I got the lathe as a pile, and there was gobs of stuff missing. I am still looking for a door, but I do not think it is going to happen any time soon. Thought about making one. I need a welding machine. I'll have to put it on the wish list for now. I'd rather have a 4 jaw chuck, and a steady rest, maybe a quick change tool post. Which reminds me that I have an extra compound for a Heavy 10 if anyone needs it. I'd swap it for just about anything useful that I do not already have. My wife pretty much said that the gun vise was overkill, too fancy for doing work on. Ok.. She was more pleased with the fact that I vacuumed the garage floor. Thanks again, Hugh
  9. First of all, thank you all for the great information on this site. Learning from books, lacks the practical application, and this site helped fill the gaps. This is my first attempt at both. The gun vise was a couple of evenings project. Works great and is as steady as a rock. Inch and a half treated plywood base and Poplar trim and support, F1 felt was used on the jaws and support. All of the wood was scrap that I had gathering dust. The Turk has been in the works for many months. It took quite some time to find a very good barrel. It looks to be in stock military configuration, however, it is fully floated top and bottom, bedded, steel pillar, machined, and Duracoated. I also added some wood in the grip area. The stock and inletting was crude at best. I over cut all of the inletting, and bedded the action, and first two and a half inches of the barrel in Devcon. The cleaning rod passage was also filled with liquid Devcon. I could have refined the exterior of the stock more, but I wanted to keep the utility/military look. I do not know how it shoots yet, I need to research, and work up some loads. The rifle feeds and cycles dummy rounds flawlessly. Super Sniper scope, Leupold base and 30mm rings. It was a great learing experience, and I am already starting (it's the bare Turk stock in the vise with the 1 1/4" barrel inletting) on the next project. Please feel free to give your honest opinion, good or bad. The vise part of the gun vise is and inexpensive (14.99) HF vise. It was yellow, a really weird yellow. Here is a link to the photos. Some of the photos are a little fuzzy. Also included a couple photos of my work area (garage, wifes parking spot). http://s158.photobucket.com/albums/t88/Hugh98/ Thanks again, Hugh
  10. Ron, Here's a thought. Put the receiver back on the facing mandrel, chuck it up in the lathe as if you were going to face it off, turn the receiver bottom so that it is facing you, lock the spindle. Mount an indicator on your tool post or carriage, and run the indicator across the length of the bottom of the reciever, both top and bottom of the bottom of the receiver. I know that sounds goofy. That should tell you if there is any canting that is not visible to the unaided eye. This may not give you the answer, but maybe it will help eliminate something that it is not. In any case I hope you find the solution. Hugh
  11. Walnut, Did you solve the problem? Hugh
  12. Walnut, Thanks for the great info. Not a waste of time at all. I am just a novice, and learning all the time. How did your threads turn out? Have any pictures? So the fixture held the receiver in the chuck? I would like to see the jig. As soon as I get my idler gear mounted (waiting on a stud and bushing) I will be able to run the gearbox and feeds. I will probably then discover a whole new set of issues that have to be addressed. I'll cross my fingers. By the way, do you know of an online source for a 55 degree screw cutting tool bit gauge? Enco sells a 60 degree, but I can not seem to find a 55 degree. Thank you for the reply. I will start hunting for the threading wires and let you know how it turns out. Hugh
  13. Hello All, I am close to getting my SB Heavy 10 back together. Here is a link to the photos I have taken thus far. It is a mix of parts. It is on casters until I find a permanent place in the garage for it. http://s158.photobucket.com/albums/t88/Hugh98/?start=all I made the spider on the tail of the spindle, nothing fancy, but it works great. The second thing I want to make is a mandrel for a LR small thread receiver. On page 179 of "Mauser Bolt Actions", Mr. Kuhnhausen refers to an inside thread caliper to measure the inside threads. Is he referring to a spring caliper? Any guidance will be greatly appreciated! Thank you, Hugh
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