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Military Firearm Restoration Corner


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  1. 7.62x39 Small Ring Mauser Project

    Darn corded rifles...alway limiting your range... That's a nice looking sporter. Good way to recycle a Spanish action and great price tag!! I guess the saying "patience is a virtue" is real. metzgeri
  2. Mitchells Mauser, Whats The Real Deal?!?

    Mitchell's Mausers is the "Ronco" of firearms sellers in that they are full of B.S. and sales hype. They actually alter the original condition of the rifle to make it more "sellable". They usually "prey" on unknowing individuals who don't know a German mauser from a tomato stake and do so at a ridiculously high price! They also deceptively swap parts, blue, polish, stamp and recondition their rifles to be something they are not. Sometimes they go so far as to pawn off a "Mitchellized" Yugo m48 as a German k98k. Just do a google search of their name and you'll see a lot of gun forums pop up. Click on them and read away. No one has anything nice to say about Mitchell Mausers (aka M&M...melts in your wallet...not in your hand...) deceptive marketing and sales practices. I do not profess to be a German Mauser officionado at all but a bright, shiny butt plate and bolt, not to mention the nice, unblemished, smooth stock and perfectly blued metal are a definite alarm for me. I'd need to see pictures of all markings and the entire rifle before I'd begin to make a judgement, though. You did right by stopping the crack in the stock. No sense in just seeing it go to ruin. Who told you that it was definitely a K98k? metzgeri
  3. Back To Building

    That's going to be a really beautiful rifle, Don. I too am glad to see you back. Divorce, ouch!! Well, look on the bright side, atleast you got the pool table!! metzgeri
  4. Won't Pass Go Gauge

    Not planning to reheat. I lapped until the bolt closed nice and snug on the go gauge (without any force). I'll be checking headspace for lug setback later when I'm finished getting her together and shoot her. I've read about your concerns on other posts before but I'm not totally convinced their legit...we'll see. metzgeri
  5. Won't Pass Go Gauge

    Well, 2nd day and finally got it!! It took me about 3 more hours and all told, about 450 strokes of the bolt to get the Go gauge to pass. Most of the time was spent cleaning the bolt and chamber, re-checking headspace with Go/No-Go gauges and re-checking lug fit with bluing. The actually lapping really didn't take that long at all. I re-checked headspace every 60 or so strokes and saw good progress along the way. Here's the final results below. I have about 80% contact on one lug and what looks like about 95% on the other. I ended up switching to a black sharpie marker because that gave me a better indicator towards the end. The blue Layout Fluid didn't want to wear off (probalby because it was too smooth). The bolt closes nice and snug on a Go gauge (without any force) and is still not closing confidently on the No-Go gauge. Thanks to all for suggestions and help. metzgeri
  6. Won't Pass Go Gauge

    UPDATE and question (Sloooowwwwly but surely): I took a couple spent 6.5x55 cases, FL resized them, cut them in half with a tube/pipe cutter, chamfered the edges and used a cut-down mosin bolt spring to come up with a jig to put pressure on the bolt as I lapped. I've read about it on various forums but there is no tutorial so there was a bit of "learning curve", not much. I started by using layout dye on the lugs and found that only one lug was contacting and at about 40%. I spent 3 hours tonight (after making the above jig) just lapping, cleaning and checking. My rough count is about 200 bolt laps (up, down=one...). I used clover 320grit (equivalent to valve lapping grit). After cleaning and rechecking go gauge, I made significant progress, the bolt is closing more on the go gauge. It is still safely not closing on the no-go gauge. I now have about 50% contact on the one lug too. Hopefully I can get both lugs contacting 80% and still safely not closing on the no-go gauge. We'll see.... Question for the experienced: While lapping, I am not rotating the bolt so far back that the lug angles are being lapped. I'm interested in only lapping the contact surfaces that exist when the bolt is fully closed. Is this a prudent precaution? metzgeri Pictures: Original Lug contacting surfaces, Jig compared to 6.5x55 case, Jig assembled
  7. Won't Pass Go Gauge

    Thanks for the advice tinker and z1r. Since the lugs probably need lapping anyhow, I'll rig up a "bubba contraption" and lap them. If it doesn't work (highly doubtful it won't) then I'll take your advice z1r. Much thanks to all for the help. metzgeri
  8. Won't Pass Go Gauge

    Yeah, I know I shouldn't have forced the bolt. The "Mad Monkey" in me got the best of me!! Another gunsmith in Cali. put this together. I plan to call him on Monday. I'm about 90% sure he didn't lap the lugs. The inner channels of the reciever are still blued and not polished. The bolt rides a little rough because of that. If he didn't polish them, I doubt he lapped the lugs. Can you lap lugs with the barrel attached (without that spring-loaded thing-a-ma-bob screwed into the reciever)? metzgeri
  9. Won't Pass Go Gauge

    Thanks for the replies, guys. There is no resistance to chambering an m/41 round or one of my FL sized loads with Graf brass. Both chamber and the bolt closes with ease. Extraction is good too. I took some time tonight to strip the bolt, like you suggested, sonic1. I also cleaned the chamber area really good. With a little "elbow grease" I'm able to close the bolt. But it sure isn't how it should close on a go gauge. So, I figure I'm right at the brink of passing go gauge. Any further thoughts guys? metzgeri
  10. Won't Pass Go Gauge

    I recently aquired a NOS Swedish action barreled to a NOS Swedish 6.5x55 barrel. Both look brand spanking new and the serial numbers/stamps (lack of them) indicate they were never used by the military. The entire barreld action was also reblued beautifully. Obviously, the action and barrel were surplused here to the states and a gunsmith put them together. The previous owner states this as well. The rifle will not pass the Forster 6.5x55 Go Gauge. I know there are discrepancies between CIP and SAAMI. And, I do believe Forster gauges are SAAMI spec'd whereas a NOS Swedish barrel would be based on CIP. So, do I have a problem here? The rifle will chamber an m/41 Swedish round. I just wonder if there could be a problem when headspace is too short. What do you guys think? Do I need to have the chamber finish reamed? metzgeri
  11. Swedes - Given A Choice...

    No, not true. If the m/38s were fitted with a short throat, how was it that the Swedish Army avoided m/94 ammunition (long throated ammo) for the m/38 through the 1940's? Not possible and did not happen. In fact, many m/38's were converted from m/96's (ie long throated m/94 bullets) and kept the original throat. The other m/38's, made later by Husqvarna, were chambered the same, but were also equipped with different rear sights, to compensate for the m/41 trajectory and they were equipped with a range plate to provide elevation correction for the m/94 ammunition. metzgeri
  12. Anyone Try This?

    I tried it on an expendable mosin-nagant barreled action. I wanted a cheap way to recrown some barrels. It did not work for me. I used a round ball stone and a drill. It did cut, but I ended up cutting a lopsided crown. Maybe it was just my technique, but I wouldn't recommend it on anything of value unless you first try it on scrap barrels. Afterward, I used the pan head bolt and polishing compound. That did the polishing job nicely, but I still had a lopsided crown. If I do recrown my barrels, I will buy the correct tool or take it to a gunsmith. metzgeri
  13. How To Clean Norwegian Krag,bore Is Black!

    Yes, the electronic bore cleaner is the way to go. I bought a 30" stainless steel rod at the hardware store. I use a whittled down wine cork with center drilled to accept the rod. Cork goes in the chamber end. I use a couple small O-rings (30cal bore) or electric tape (22cal bore) along the length of the rod to keep it from touching the bore. At the top, I tape a funnel to the muzzle. I use a flashlight that takes 4 D cells and connected two leads with alligator clips to it. I poor ammonia down the bore to the top. Negative attached to the rod, Positive to the reciever. Ammonia will bubble up, therefore the reason for the funnel. I leave the power on for 5 minutes. I may repeat this 2 or 3 times. Each time, you'll see the rod comes out with a black residue. The barrel definitely cleans up. After I wipe the residue off, I polish the rod with 000 steel wool for a good annode surface the next time. http://www.surplusrifleforum.com/viewtopic...=80&t=39312 metzgeri
  14. .35 Whelen Imp.

    Great looking rifle and what a bad arse round the 35 Whelen Imp. is!!! metzgeri
  15. Spanish Mauser

    You should look around at the various firearm board for sale sections and the auction sites. M43's are going for more than what you paid. I saw one sell on gunboards for something like $300-350 recently!! You might consider flipping that ol' war horse and recoup some good funds for more than one project..... metzgeri