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Military Firearm Restoration Corner

mr fixit

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Everything posted by mr fixit

  1. I was already leaning toward not sending it off for treatment. But sometimes I worry too much. The only place I would even consider being a possible issue is the locking lug seats. I believe taking too much off there could be an issue and cause the bolt lugs to 'dig in' to the seat. My gut tells me that it should be fine because it took very very little to lap the lugs.
  2. I am really going back and forth with this decision. I've read so much about Mausers, I have the Kuhnhausen manual and I've read lots of pro and con about it as well. Some of what I have researched tells me that the strength of a Mauser action is not in the heat treating, since it is low carbon steel and can't be through hardened like modern steels. I've read lots of statements about Mauser's being carburized or surface hardened which supposedly only helps with wear not strength. And of course I can't forget reading that even if it doesn't need to be heat treated, it probably wont hurt to have it done anyway. Here's what I have, a FN Marked Greek 1930 action. I got it already rebarreled which I took off, and will put on a new .270 Win barrel. All I've done to it is true the receiver face, drill and tap for scope, grind the rear notch for the new bolt, and weld on a new bolt handle. I know the bolt lugs were not too hot because I TIG welded the handle and had the front half of the bolt in a jar of water and wrapped in rags. The bolt lugs never even got warm. I have lapped the lugs to the receiver, but I can barely see where any metal was removed, it was pretty minor. I have not and will not be removing the charger hump. All that to explain my dilemma. Sending it off for heat treat at Blanchards or the other place in Salt Lake (I forget the name) will cost me about $250. That's not a deal breaker but.... I can spend that on other nice things for the gun if I don't have to spend it here. Advice? thoughts? suggestions? What would you folks do? For those that have much more experience than me with Mausers, what would you do? Thanks for your thoughts and ideas in advance Scott
  3. I have very mixed feelings about doing a true "oil finish" on this stock. On one hand, if done correctly and well they really are (to me at least) the most beautiful finish for nice wood. On the other hand there is so much conflicting information on them. I have heard that a real oil finish such as BLO or Tung oil isn't moisture resistant, and will get tacky in heat. Part of the conflicting information is that some recommend 100% Tung oil, and many are using a 'tung oil finish' such as Formby's or other brands that may not have much Tung oil in it at all. I have used Tru Oil on a stock in the past, right now I cant remember which one but probably a milsurp I cleaned up. It's not a bad finish, but i'm not sure it's one I want on this rifle. What I'm after is the satin look of a nice oil finish. I of course want moisture resistance and all the other positive things we all want from a nice stock. So, I'm doing a li'l research project. I have a nice piece of Walnut, about 10x8x1/2, that I am testing the Tung oil on. I have 100% Tung oil (not polymerized) from Rockler. I started with the Walnut sanded, and mixed the Tung oil and Mineral Spirits 50/50 and flooded one side of the board. Did the basic let it soak in for about 20 min then wipe off. I gave it about 5 days and did that again. Then I added more Tung oil bringing the blend to about 75% oil 25% mineral spirits. I have one coat of that on so far. I plan to do one more coat of that this coming weekend, and then go to 100% Tung oil for the next several coats. I'm sanding with 400grit before applying each new coat. My plan is to do maybe 5-10 coats based on how it looks then stop. At that point I intend to take the board over to the saw and rip it in half to see how far the finish penetrates. I also plan to test to see what moisture does to it and heat. My plan may not tell me much of anything. But, then again, it might.
  4. I agree. And my memory may be off, I think I ordered this stock in 1996. I have another also from Richards that I am sure I asked for Claro and it has a much more redish and green tints to it.
  5. I gave it a wipe with a wet rag and it really looks good. As my wife would say "it pops". Cant wait to get it sanded and oiled. Do we want to 'discuss' the various oil and other stock finishes? Right now I'm looking a pure Tung oil.
  6. Ken I cut the original handle as close to the root as I possibly could, right up to the chamfer. I was hoping to keep from having to cut a contour in it. But of course if it needs it it needs it.
  7. I've had this stock for about 25 years, just sitting and waiting. Looks like I'm finally going to get to use it.
  8. I'm actually debating on using that safety on this build. I have a stock already for this rifle to use standard military bottom metal. I have another project, a Yugo '48 and a full length Mannlicher style stock for it with no inletting for bottom metal. I was planning on doing a blind magazine for that one. If I go with the blind magazine, I'm thinking i want the 3 position safety for unloading live rounds. The stock for this build I have had for about 20 years. I got one from Richards Microfit all those years ago, I think it is semi fancy. It has some nice color/figure that I'm looking forward to seeing done. For a barrel on this project, I ended up going with a Lothar Walther barrel in 270. Turns out it's coming from Germany so I guess it will be here when it gets here. I'll get some pics of the stock up soon. In the mean time, I'm looking for opinions...... Do I keep the charger hump, or remove it? If I keep it, I can contour the scope base to fit, If I remove it then of course I move the base forward just enough to fit. I don't mind the look of having it, and of course I don't mind without it either. I've seen some really nice sporters with the hump still intact. Opinions? thoughts? would love to see more pics of others as well. Scott
  9. The barrel that came with it looked bad, like it had been put on with a pipe wrench. There were literally wrench marks in it. I didn't even know what caliber the barrel was, it wasn't marked. Off it came. Since I have a lathe, I made a fixture to true the receiver. I trued the face in the lathe, then turned the fixture into a mandrel to lap the inner shoulder. Before: And after:
  10. I have already replaced the straight bolt handle. I bought several bolt handles years ago. I used one here. I was going for the 'original' German style straight down look. That's the stock that the rifle came with. I'm just using it here for a mock up. You can also see the 3 position safety and scope rings I have.
  11. .....starts with a single footstep. I have already built my middle son his 'first deer rifle', that was back about 2009. I have a younger son who I have always planned on doing the same, building his first deer rifle. I have been slow it getting going. I have finally got my new shop at the house built and mostly up and running. So, I am getting going. This rifle plan has changed a bit as I have gotten into it. I'm starting with an FN Greek 1930 action. I bought a 'custom' rifle some years ago, basically because it had a very nice looking FN receiver. The action had been rebarrled, but had a straight bolt handle on it. The stock was very plain and didn't fit correctly. So, I am basically starting with just the receiver. Interestingly to me, there is no serial number on the receiver. It doesn't look to me like it has been ground or removed, just that it wasn't applied. I have already made a call to the ATF, who told me what I already thought; specifically that it's not required and if I want I can add whatever serial number I want. My plan is to laser engrave a serial number based on my son's initials.
  12. Curious, Do both sites have a reamer co-op then? I assumed it was the same...... My latest project is just getting started. A custom Mauser '98, based on a Greek FN action, going to be in .270 for my youngest son. He's 21 now so I'm running late.
  13. I'm kind of in a state of confusion. I have been a member here and over at the (old) Mauser Central for a few years. I haven't posted a lot, although I have read often. I'm aware that MC lost it's domain and restarted at MauserCentral.net and I have rejoined over there. My confusion is that it seems to me that the new MC is pretty dead. I can't log in over there from anywhere except my home due to multiple IP bans. And since you have to be logged in to even read the forums there.....it just makes me confused. Over here I don't see a lot of activity either although I thought both sites were related. Has Mauser building shut down, did everyone go somewhere else? What is going on? Scott
  14. I'm interested. As far as why not 8x57......I'm taking off the military barrels and replacing with sporter barrels to get the smooth lines and no military curves. Just going for looks, but since I am replacing them I need to pick a caliber. I guess my question should have been what replacement barrel calibers are 'plug and play'? I assume either 8x57 or 7x57 would need very little work to feed well. If not those calibers, what are the next easiest to get to feed well with the least work? I have thought for years a 7x57 would be sexy. Mainly because of the 'mystique" and history of the round. I have very seriously considered a custom 7x57, and stamp the barrel ".275 Rigby" cause I'm just weird like that. As for .270....I love it. My main rifle is a factory Remington 700 from the era of pressed checkering. I bought it used as a teenager in the 80's because I had read about it in Outdoor Life so often. It has never let me down.
  15. I'm curious about which round to convert a couple Mausers to. I have a Yugo intermediate action, and a standard length La Caruna action both originally in 8x57. Considering getting them to feed smoothly, what would be an easy caliber conversion? How much trouble is it to get say a .270 to feed smoothly? I would like to chamber them in something that would be easy to find ammo for.
  16. I don't think it will make the action brittle. It may not be necessary, but I think at the worst it will be an even treatment an all surfaces which shouldn't be a bad thing at all.
  17. I do plan on rust bluing. The reason for heat treating is just to be sure. I cleaned up the reciever ring, removing the crest. Of course I also lapped the bolt/reciever lugs. May or may not have taken enough of in either process to make a difference, but if I have it treated I can be sure. Also, since I am welding the new bolt handle on, I don't have any worries of losing treatment on the lugs after welding since it will all be re heat treated.
  18. I've been accumulating pieces and parts for a while, now I'm down to work. I have a Yugo 24/47 I am fixing up for the youngest son. The plan is to have a full stock, light weight rifle in 6.5 Swede. There are a lot more details to it, but that's the overall to get to my questions. To go with the style of the rifle, I want a butter knife style bolt handle. I couldn't find one to buy like I wanted, so I made my own. I have it shaped, cut, partially polished, and ready to weld on. But before I do, I want to make sure I don't have a problem. I used round stock to make the handle, I believe it to be hot rolled. Will that cause any issues at all? After it is attached, I will send receiver and bolt out to be hardened, then I plan on rust bluing the barrel, receiver and bolt. So, my questions are; Will mild steel (hot or cold rolled) make any difference on heat treating/hardening, or bluing? And a second question, do I 'need' the 3% nickle rod to weld the bolt handle on? I'm using a Tig machine. Would welding wire like ER70 work? I ask that because that is what I have on hand. I don't mind buying the nickle rods if I need them, but I just need to know if they are really necessary. Thanks in advance, and ask me anything if I need to clarify. Mr Fixit
  19. Quite right. I'm planning on an "Old Classic" style from Richards Microfit. I know I know, but I've ordered twice from them before and got what I wanted. Anyway, Old Classic full length "Mannlicher" style forend. No palm swell at all. And I did decide to go with a 13" LOP and then cut to fit. Now if I could just get Richards on the phone.....
  20. Sorry, should have said I am building in 6.5x55
  21. I am about to order a stock for my youngest son's first rifle. He is 11, and small for his age. I think he will end up grown at around 5'6"- 5'9" or so. Right now, he has a measured 11 1/4" LOP. The Rifle I am building will be a full stock, trim Mauser with 20" barrel. I am thinking of ordering a semi-inlet with a finished LOP including 1/2" pad of 12 or 12 1/2". Later I can add a 1" pad to make a 12 1/2" or 13" LOP. I am asking thoughts and opinions on that, as well as suggestions. Mr Fixit
  22. Will standard No1 Mk III parts interchange? I assume the sight spring will, but what about the extractor spring? Mr Fixit
  23. Not really a sporterizing issue, but I thought someone here might have some parts or know where to find them. I have an Indian 2A Enfield (.308) that I have cleaned up and restored. I broke the extractor spring, and lost the rear sight detent spring (coil spring). Anybody have any just laying around? Can you tell me where to find them? Thanks Scott
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