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Military Firearm Restoration Corner


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  1. Latest Build

    That's a keeper for sure!
  2. Great You Tube

    I have met Othias and was present for one of the videos. Neat guy. Didn't get to meet Mae though. Used just a tripod and tiny camera w/remote mic. Mark the gunsmith is friend of mine and a great on air talent.
  3. For All You Wondering Mauser Central Members

    MauserGrandCentral Mauser.Central Mauser_Central
  4. For All You Wondering Mauser Central Members

    Saw this post on AR regarding MC situation. Maybe Google can correct without losing the domain? posted 29 May 2017 05:46 Hide Post Just make lots of posts that say "Mauser central is now xxxx". Google will catch it and everything will be fine. Thus how SEO works.
  5. That's a great tip. I also learned from my gun repair training that you can re-coat polyurethane as soon as it gets tacky. Thin coats usually get tacky in 15-30 minutes. I have applied as many as 7 coats of poly to gun stocks in 2 hrs. This way you don't have to sand between coats; just sand and polish the last coat after curing. Once the cure starts the coat will cure hard regardless of whether it is covered by another coat.
  6. It's easy; follow the money. Big salaries and guaranteed employment breed corruption. Here is what is all about: http://www.questia.com/PM.qst?a=o&d=63770429 Perhaps if we adhered to these principles!
  7. Mauser Model B Restoration

    I think Springfield Sporters has the intermediate bolt bodies. That looks like an alcohol induced bubba attempt! If you anneal those plug screws and tamp them into the holes you should get a tight fit. A little creative peening can blend the letters into the original stampings. I'd add some weld to the rear bridge and re-sculpt those charger bridges. Nice save and good luck with it! Bob
  8. Internal Stock Repair-opinions Please

    Ok, I got it now. What do you think of this? Drill out the ebony caps and cross-pin and then do the block/mortise repair. Next, drill thru the old dowel holes and insert/epoxy a short .375 dowel on each side into the block. Finally, drill thru the dowels and block for a crossbolt. Install crossbolt and use black epoxy/thin ebony to cap the ends. If you do it this way the dowels will transmit recoil across nearly the full width of the stock.
  9. Internal Stock Repair-opinions Please

    I think I'd do a mortise and block repair. Chisel out a rectangular block mortise leaving shoulders where the front of the mag mortise ends and extending to the bottom of the inletting. Epoxy a wood block in and run a stock reinforcing bolt thru the whole affair.
  10. Parts Storage Advice

    I think the people that make ZIPLOC storage bags have a new vacuum bag thats fairly inexpensive. You can prep the metal then coat it with gun grease and vacuum seal it - no air, no rust. I have things like sights and gunparts stored in FOODSAVER vacuum bags. That would work well too.
  11. Now With Photos; What Action Is This

    Looks like a 98a or a Polish 98. Both are standard length, large ring thread, small ring diameter actions. Both had the integral handguard ring that went half-way 'round. This explains why your bolt won't work because it was made for an intermediate length action. A stnd 98 bolt should work.
  12. Your Opinion

    I would call that moderate pitting at the woodline.
  13. Dies For Epoxy Filler

    I've used sanding dust from different types of wood to color epoxy with some success. I keep it in old film canisters and mix it with those 5 or 15 min epoxys. Usually I have to choose a wood a couple of shades lighter than what I need to fill. The wood will darken when mixed with the epoxy. Once set and before it cures hard, I sand and then false grain the fill spot with a hobby knife. I come back and add dark lines with a fine Sharpie and smudge them with my finger. This usually blends it in pretty good. If I'm dealing with a real light wood like maple, I use those acrylic fillers tinted with acrylic artist colors. Its amazing how hard they cure.
  14. Feeding Problems In Yugo

    You don't want too loose a fit with the Yugo because there is no boltface extension to retain the cartridge as in a stnd M98. Too much metal removal could result in the case dropping off the boltface before ejection. If you take off any metal just stone the edge of the claw a little and try as you go. Check the extractor for fore and aft moment too. It was designed to slide forward and back a bit to accomodate feeding and to grip the rim tighter on extraction. I have a VZ24/52-c that was a bear to chamber rounds. The extractor was extremely tight on the collar. I removed it and polished the mating surfaces till it moved easily back and forth. Feeds like a dream now.
  15. Welding Holes

    I agree, it's hard to tell from the photo. Looks like one hole is tapped and the other just started. Are you using the coat of arms as a guide or did you set it up in a jig to determine center? Don't depend on the crest to be centered. They were rolled on and are often off a little. I put a straight-edge on the computer screen and aligned it with your rear sight. The edge extended down the middle of the two holes. I know thats not scientific or accurate due to angles but you might check.