BobVZ

That's a keeper for sure!

I have met Othias and was present for one of the videos. Neat guy. Didn't get to meet Mae though. Used just a tripod and tiny camera w/remote mic. Mark the gunsmith is friend of mine and a great on air talent.

That's a great tip. I also learned from my gun repair training that you can re-coat polyurethane as soon as it gets tacky. Thin coats usually get tacky in 15-30 minutes. I have applied as many as 7 coats of poly to gun stocks in 2 hrs. This way you don't have to sand between coats; just sand and polish the last coat after curing. Once the cure starts the coat will cure hard regardless of whether it is covered by another coat.

I think Springfield Sporters has the intermediate bolt bodies. That looks like an alcohol induced bubba attempt! If you anneal those plug screws and tamp them into the holes you should get a tight fit. A little creative peening can blend the letters into the original stampings. I'd add some weld to the rear bridge and re-sculpt those charger bridges. Nice save and good luck with it! Bob

Ok, I got it now. What do you think of this? Drill out the ebony caps and cross-pin and then do the block/mortise repair. Next, drill thru the old dowel holes and insert/epoxy a short .375 dowel on each side into the block. Finally, drill thru the dowels and block for a crossbolt. Install crossbolt and use black epoxy/thin ebony to cap the ends. If you do it this way the dowels will transmit recoil across nearly the full width of the stock.

I think I'd do a mortise and block repair. Chisel out a rectangular block mortise leaving shoulders where the front of the mag mortise ends and extending to the bottom of the inletting. Epoxy a wood block in and run a stock reinforcing bolt thru the whole affair.

I think the people that make ZIPLOC storage bags have a new vacuum bag thats fairly inexpensive. You can prep the metal then coat it with gun grease and vacuum seal it - no air, no rust. I have things like sights and gunparts stored in FOODSAVER vacuum bags. That would work well too.

Looks like a 98a or a Polish 98. Both are standard length, large ring thread, small ring diameter actions. Both had the integral handguard ring that went half-way 'round. This explains why your bolt won't work because it was made for an intermediate length action. A stnd 98 bolt should work.

I would call that moderate pitting at the woodline.

I've used sanding dust from different types of wood to color epoxy with some success. I keep it in old film canisters and mix it with those 5 or 15 min epoxys. Usually I have to choose a wood a couple of shades lighter than what I need to fill. The wood will darken when mixed with the epoxy. Once set and before it cures hard, I sand and then false grain the fill spot with a hobby knife. I come back and add dark lines with a fine Sharpie and smudge them with my finger. This usually blends it in pretty good. If I'm dealing with a real light wood like maple, I use those acrylic fillers tinted with acrylic artist colors. Its amazing how hard they cure.

You don't want too loose a fit with the Yugo because there is no boltface extension to retain the cartridge as in a stnd M98. Too much metal removal could result in the case dropping off the boltface before ejection. If you take off any metal just stone the edge of the claw a little and try as you go. Check the extractor for fore and aft moment too. It was designed to slide forward and back a bit to accomodate feeding and to grip the rim tighter on extraction. I have a VZ24/52-c that was a bear to chamber rounds. The extractor was extremely tight on the collar. I removed it and polished the mating surfaces till it moved easily back and forth. Feeds like a dream now.

I agree, it's hard to tell from the photo. Looks like one hole is tapped and the other just started. Are you using the coat of arms as a guide or did you set it up in a jig to determine center? Don't depend on the crest to be centered. They were rolled on and are often off a little. I put a straight-edge on the computer screen and aligned it with your rear sight. The edge extended down the middle of the two holes. I know thats not scientific or accurate due to angles but you might check.

As designed, I believe the M91 Mauser is like the M93-98 in that the flat front end of the cocking piece impacts the rear of the bolt sleeve to halt forward movement. When you unscrewed the firing pin to lengthen it, you caused the flared portion to impact the inards of the bolt before the cocking piece. This may have resulted in the damage. Normally, when the rifle is fired, the firing pin tip stops most of the forward movement when it contacts the primer.

Try heating the metal with a hair dryer till its too hot to touch(this will soften the dried oil). Then try slaping the barrel up and/or tapping through the action screw holes with a large brass drift pin. Failing that, drizzle some liquid paint remover around the wood/metal joints. Veterinarians have syringes with curved plastic tips which are good for this. This will destroy the linseed oil it comes into contact with. Then try above procedure. Do this in a well ventilated area and use eye protection from splatters.

This may be old news, but I just noticed a "Sporter" forum has been added to PxBill's. Miracles are possible!

Thanks for the very helpful info. I'll probably send this one out to be properly fitted and do the stock and metal finishing myself. Bob

Z1r, Would you recommend the Brownells chasing die/tap sets? I'm concerned about whether they are 55 degree or 60 degree. I'd rather leave the Swede and the Turk in 55 degree, but if I use both then I guess they would be matched. Is the chasing die capable of removing that much metal? I noticed in the catalog pic the die has and adjustment screw that would let me open it up a bit. Does this mean I could make several passes and gradually work down the die? Thanks, Bob

I'm considering buying a NOS Swede M38 replacement military barrel for a "Twede" project. When measuring the greater diameter shank thread I'm getting .992 in. rather than the stated .980 for this barrel. I've taken 4 measurements around the circumference at 90 degree intervals and the measure is consistent. My caliper is correct and accurately measures some M98 barrels I have at 1.10 in. Is this normal for these barrels? Will I likely run into fitting problems mating it to a Turk receiver? Whats been your experience? Thanks, Bob

Looks like a Spanish M93 short rifle or a M1916. You were lucky and got the hinged floorplate. Somebody also tried to re-shape the charger guides by grinding off the feed lips. This needs some more shaping. Thanks for your photo of the bolt head. This answered a question for me regarding the chamfer on the lower half of the left locking lug. My 1916 has been shaving brass off the case rims. It has a sharp edge to this lug. I have seen Swede lugs and they have a pronounced chamfer. Now I know the Spanish 93 had it also. Mine must have missed inspection! I will try to reproduce it with some diamond grinding points to solve the problem. Bob

Brownells used to carry a product called "Whiting". I believe it is finely ground chalk. You mix it with methyl alcohol and paint it on the oily areas and let it dry. Then apply heat to drive the oil into the whiting. When it turns dark, brush it off and re-apply enough times to where it doesn't discolor any more. Finally, wipe the area down with acetone and re-finish. I've used it on many milsurp restorations and it works like a charm.

Could you just use a scrap bolt shroud with a brass rod brazed into the end?

http://www.e-gunparts.com/DisplayAd.asp?ch...perSKU=&MC= Here is the only listing I've seen lately.

riceone, Don't worry, we are talking about re-barreling 3 Siamese actions and not butchering original rifles. Bob

How about the WSM class of cartridges? I ran a .270 WSM through my Siamese and it picked them up and ejected with no problem. Rim is .535 vs the Siamese at .550. The only question is pressure.

Is it possible you have a Peruvian Mauser which was made with a reversed safety mechanism? Safe would be left and fire would be right.