montea6b

I'm back! Thanks for the help Doc.

I have a Samsung phone, and I don't believe it stores and displays website passwords in settings. My email address is correct. It is the same one I have had for almost 20 years.

I don't know where else to post this, but in the years since I joined I have several new electronic gadgets, (laptop, etc.) and for some reason I can only access my account through my smart phone. I can see the number of digits in my password from counting the ****, but everytime I try to use some old iteration of previous passwords I fail. (My phone obviously has it stored...) I have tried using the "forgot/reset password" link several times, but no email is ever received. (Yes, I checked the spam folder...) My phone is getting older too, and may need replacing. Before i am locked out for good, does anyone have any suggestions? (Resetting the password, even when logged in, requires that you enter your old password!)

Dr. Hess, I was asking if the account was behind because you suggested that somebody contribute “some strictly monetary value” towards the coop. Not sure exactly what you meant by that, but it came across as a plea for a cash donation. As a non-profit, the folks who graciously volunteer their time to run things ought to ensure that postage and sharpening fees are adequate to break even each time a reamer is mailed and used, but beyond that why might anyone be asked to donate anything other than a reamer to get in? Not trying to spark any argument, but I guess I’m just a little puzzled by what you were asking for in your April 3rd post... P.S. thanks again for the email!

Dr Hess, is the account in arrears? If so, I would suggest simply increasing the sharpening/postage and handling fee by some amount for each transaction to catch back up. P.S. Does anyone have Tanglewood’s email or other contact info, or know whether he might be having computer problems again? I’m just looking for an update on a reamer and gauges I ordered and he hasn’t responded in a while. Please PM me if you do...

Are you asking about a rear pillar? If so, I install the front screw, then use feeler gauges to get the gap between the mag box and receiver even along the full length front to rear, then make it that long...

So maybe buy one to contribute that the co-op doesn't have? (For variety, even if you don't need it...)

That must have been one hell of a photo op to get bent like that!!!

A few years ago I had a local welder do a few bolt handles for me. (Not a gunsmith) I had a store bought threaded aluminum heat sink, but he didn't like it so he turned one out of solid copper bar on his lathe. Unthreaded, but apparently he oriented it to stay in by gravity. Seemed to fit nice, and he let me keep it. Morale of the story, it doesn't need to be too fancy. And I will echo the offer to send you one or both of mine to use...

I haven't been on here in a while, but just came back to check on the status of the reamer coop, and make a trade. I contribute a 30-06 reamer some years ago, and still have the 35 Whelen I swapped it for. I'd like to send it back, and get a 7mm Rem Mag reamer and gauges for my latest project. Who do I need to contact to make this happen?

No, they come with a guard. And some of them have more authentic ones, I just didn't like the one it had originally. (see last photo...)

As we all suspected... I guess if you're not sure of the caliber it's better to just make something up rather than appear ignorant. Doesn't really work though, does it?

Pretty funny what people will come up with. If you aren't sure just guess and pretend... Is it really 7.62x54? 'Cuz that would entail some work.

I have one of those miniature collectible football helmets in the Seahawks old colors. I have never been happy with the plastic facemask that it came with. It is ugly and does not look like any style I have actually seen in use, so I decided to make a 'retro' style facemask in more of a lineman's big cage style. I bought some brass rod at the hardware store, and using the old one as a template, and by looking at old photos, I used hands and pliers to bend up some pieces. The trickiest part was the part that curves up over the brow. Here are the starting pieces: (kittie can't wait to scrimmage...) Soldering the pieces together: Here it is all finished and painted next to the one it replaced:

I saw a newer Wrangler on the highway the other day that was done up in a flat desert tan. I thought it looked very cool... quasi-militaristic like a Humvee.

File, then sand. You want some excess wood so that you can bring it down to the level of the metal. What diameter is your barrel? It looks to me like the barrel channel is about the same diameter as your front receiver ring...

Three shots touching, that's a heck of a group! What distance? Nice rifle too, I like the effect you achieved on the stock and love the bolt handle.

Harley, I'm a little puzzled at your post. You used "big bore" and "sniper" in the same post. These two don't normally go together. Do you really want a big bore, or are you looking for something flat shooting? I think you need to decide what you really want to do with this rifle to determind how much power you need. Do you want to reach out and touch critters, (if so, what size?) or just punch holes in paper for fun? You should also decide how much you want to spend and what you can do for yourself. If you are willing to spend some bucks then the first thing I would do is get a different action. You could spend a lot of time, effort, and $ converting it to a big bore and still just have an 1891. If you just want a low budget "sniper style" rifle for fun shooting then I would stick to the original chambering and go crazy with the stock and any mods needed for a scope. The further away from the original chambering you go the more work it is to get everything right.

Huh?! Ya shoulda just stuck the "gift" in your checking account and called it yours... I just refinanced, it was actually a piece of cake. Well, it was with one bank. I had a home equity line of credit with the first bank to make some repairs. I thought I'd use them for the refi since I had just provided my life's history for the loan a couple months prior, (plus we also use them for checking and savings) so I thought the refi would be pretty streamlined. When it came down to it they said "please fill out this application and we need these documents, etc..." My response was "Gee, don't you already have all this?" They came back with "You have to follow the process..." So I called the bank that carries the primary mortgage, (almost 4 years old) and asked what they required and they spent 5 minutes on the phone asking if everything was still current, (do you have the same job? still married? any more kids?) and told me they'd call when the docs were ready. Still had mountains of paper to sign... they could have put just about anything in front of me and I would have signed it. Anyhow, congrats Jason!

What about the Thai women? Tiger is half Thai after all...

Unless you're camping with knuckleheads! Years ago we were all sitting around the campfire and a dufus friend of mine, (with a few beers in him) randomly grabbed a handful of .22lr and chucked them in the coals... Of course we all panicked and dove for cover but they just popped like popcorn. No chamber and barrel to control the pressure and accelerate the bullet. I wouldn't try it again, but it makes for a good story! P.S. I don't believe the burning through the brass with the bullet in place. Just the pressure of the expanding air within the cartridge (even without the powder igniting) would pop the bullet out the end.

Mauser_Shooter makes some excellent points. However, something said in that post always makes my radar go off... No brass cartridge case can handle the pressure unless supported properly by the steel of the chamber. The case is merely a container for the powder, and holds the primer and bullet in proper relation to one another. It also acts as a gasket to seal gasses from escaping through the inevitable small crevices where the action locks up. The size of these crevices determines the strength requirements of the brass. While I agree whole heartedly about keeping pressures in line, my understanding is that SAMMI pressures are based more on the rifles the cartridge is designed for and less for the limitations of the brass itself. Knowledgable handloaders keeping well within the pressures that "modern" rifles can handle upload older chamberings all the time. Unless I am missing something I would say that if the Mosin can handle the pressure you could upload the 30-30 cautiously and safely. But again, why bother...

It makes total sense now, thanks. 30-60-90 keeps the math elegantly simple. I'd have to ruminate some more to see if any other angles present a similar easy solution.

I assume you mean offset the compound 30 degrees from the X axis? That makes perfect sense actually. It forms a 30 60 90 triangle so that advancing the cutter along the compound results in an advance along the Y axis of exactly half the amount. Keeps the mental math simple. Thanks!

Ok, I got some mail order tooling from Grizzly and made a few chips yesterday evening. Just a few light cuts on some scrap bar stock I had laying around. When setting up to make facing cuts I was dismayed to discover that I could not get the cutter all the way to the center of the piece with the compound set up for travel on the "Y" axis. (I hope I have this right...) In other words the compound was set up to advance the cutter into the workpiece at right angles to the cross slide. So I rotated the compound 90* and was able to face all the way from the center, but in setting it up this way I got two micro-feed options in the same direction, and the only way to advance the cutter into the face of the workpiece is by use of the carriage handwheel. I didn't like that setup, but the only other option is to angle the compound. When I do that I lose the ability to use the increments on the wheel to tell how much the cutter is advanced into the piece. It also changes the relative angle of the cutter to the workpiece. Questions; Is angling the compound an accepable way to get around this issue? Is this standard practice, or a limitation of the machine I bought? What is the best angle for both compound and cutter? Is there a good rule of thumb for the angle that will allow easy trig to determine the amount of advance occuring on the "Y" axis for a given amount of travel along the "hypotenuse" of the compound?