bja105

7.91 is the Turkish stamp indicating it is probably a 8x57. The 7mm stamp is probably from the importer, and probably a mistake. I'm not aware of any turks being rebored by the arsenal.

Nothing like that! I just wanted a bit trimmer, and also get rid of some damage to the top of the stock, which might not be an issue. Tinker, PM me your number again. We should get together when the weather warms.

I have a 1903 pre-inlet stock I just received, a long Birdseye maple. I have a 20" barreled 1903a3 that I want to use it on, as a full length stock. To slim it down a bit, can I plane a bit off the top of the stock, inlet it deeper, then take the same amount off of the magazine tops, pillars, and trigger? I wouldn't cry over loosing one round from the magazine? Will this work? What am I overlooking that will bite me? Also, does anyone suggest a stain or finish that will look good on Birdseye Maple? I'm worried that the stock will be too plain. This is the planning phase, its too cold in the garage to work now.

I had a trimmer with the same symptoms. The local shop said it was the magneto, said I was better off getting a new trimmer. I did. They are cheap. I have no idea how to test a magneto. It has to be spinning, but not many meters can measure the output. I assume that the spark is like the heating ignition components I use in HVAC. Output ranges from 10,000 volts(gas) to 30,000 volts(oil.) No one buys meters for that. If the control has power, and the spark doesn't jump the prescribed gap, replace the control. On your trimmer, if you have the proper input to the control (spinning), the plug wire is intact (low resistance), and the spark plug gap is right, and you don't have spark, get a new magneto. New magnetos come with new trimmers.

The CCI Military primers have thicker cups to resist slam firing in Semi Auto's. Needed for M1 Garands.

Anybody?

1903's are my favorite. This is my favorite, a Springfield made in 1930, with last year's buck. I didn't do anything to this rifle, bought it as is for $230.

I bought this 1903A3 on gunbroker. It has a fajen stock, and an unknown safety. The stock seas to be a low grade, lots of filling is needed. I'm not too fond of the shape either. The stock shape prevents use of the magazine cutoff. The barrel outside is bad, even for a wartime product. I don't have a good pic of it, but anyone who was a michinist prior to the war would have been embarassed. Of course, the important part, the bore, is very good. My goal is to remove the barrel and smooth it out, without reducing it too much. I plan to reuse the stock, so I don't want a big gap around the barrel. I will reshape the stock somewhat, and refinish it. I already removed the wood that prevents using the magazine cutoff. The tip is plastic. If I get ambitious, I might replace it with ebony. I want to use a side swing safety. I bought milled 1903 bottom metal, which I will slightly recontour ans add a push button release. There are some tool marks on the receiver to remove. I might build a parkerizing tank and park it, but if the metal work comes out nice, I may send it for hot bluing. I'll post progress pics soon.

Thanks guys. I'm sure some of that will make more sense when I have the tool and directions in my hands. Is there anything special about using it on a 1903 Springfield?

I have been all over the description, but I still don't see any mill tooling specified. What am I missing?

I have a couple type 38 barreled receivers I want to remove the barrels from. I have a barrel vise, but not an appropriate action wrench. I have the Midway wrench, which only works on flat bottom receivers. I don't want to buy a new action wrench, but I may need to. Anyone have a tip on a poor man's method? PS. This shop has crates of barreled receivers, types 38 and 99, many with Mums intact. $9.00 each.

Who uses this kit? http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/store/Pro...ail.aspx?p=5473 What additional tooling do I need? My machinist buddy will help me with this. I have a few 1903's, a few 98 Mausers, and a 96 Swede to do. http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/store/Pro...%20SAFETY%20KIT Any tips?

Guys, this place is called The Arsenal, on 5th Ave in New Kensington, PA. Yes, its northeast of Pittsburgh. They have lots of milsurps. M-98's, missing bolts. Enfields. Mauser and Steyr receivers, crates of them. Barreled actions. Collectibles. New guns, too. http://www.startw.com/jolar/index.html Thanks for the advise.

I spent too much on a sporterized type 38, with a 308 Win barrel. The receiver has lots of holes, half of them stripped, most of them off center. The stock is ugly and cracked. It closes on a no go gage. I found a new gun shop, right under my nose in New Kensington! They have lots of milsurps, including a crate of Arisaka barreled receivers, for $9!!!!! 1. How can I tell a type 38 receiver from a Type 99 receiver? 2. Are any parts interchangeable between the 38 and 99? Same barrel thread? This rifle is hardly worth putting more money into, but I can spring for 9 bucks! I tried to sell the piece of junk for $40 at a gun show, and got a lot of laughs, but no offers. My wife likes how short the rifle is. If I can get it shooting, it would be a good rifle for one of my kids. Thanks.

I have not seen any data for 2400. I use reloader 7 and IMR 4064 with the 405's. I have seen data for low pressure loads with 4064. I have also seen internet data for Red Dot. I found a bunch with a search of the forums at Accurate Reloading.

Tinker, are you still looking? I have a set I doubt I will use.

Thanks for the ideas. I think I can round up a miter saw. Its an excuse to buy one. I was going to buy a disk sander for this project, maybe I'll get both.

What is the best way to cut a stock to a shorer length of pull? I bought a sporterized m96 Swede, and I would like to make it fit my 5'1" wife. I cut the barrel to 20 inches. I would like to shorten the stock and add a recoil pad. Cutting tools I have; Circular saw scroll saw Sawsall Hacksaw I thought about measuring from the buttplate, and penciling a line, then scoring all around with the hacksaw. I could cut it long and file back to the line. I worry about splinters. Anyone have a better way to get the stock fit to the shooter than trial and error? Any reason to alter the existing angle of the buttplate?

Ist stage is not that long, maybe slightly heavy, but not much different from the rest. There is a definate stop between the two humps.

First , I like two stage triggers. The trigger on my 24/47 has a too light second stage. Usualy the rifle fire at the end of the first stage. If I pull the trigger very slowly, I get asecond stage, but it is too light to use. Its like first stage is 5.0 lbs, and second is 5.1 lbs. I noticed that the cocking piece moves back during the first stage of the trigger pull. I stoned the two sears square (or at least square-er). The cocking piece doesn't move back anymore, but now it is even smoother, and the initial problem seems worse. It seems that if I ground down the front bump on the trigger, the second would do more of the work, and maybe thesecond stage would be more substantial. I tried to stone the front bump, but I don't think I went far enough to make a difference. Eventualy I will start swapping parts, but for now I want to use what I have. Any ideas?

Those are two nice looking bolt stops. JHR, is yours jeweled, then blued, or blued, then jeweled? Or is it just lighting and reflection that makes part of the spring dark?

You could rebarrel to 8*56 with a .323 bore, and use a 323 expander in your die. But you still need to find 8*56 brass, preferably boxer primed. The ammo problem is maybe why they are so cheap. An M95 is partly responsible for my milsurp and sporter habit. I picked one up at a gunshop in Virginia, and I had to ask for help to make it go! When I got home, I went to Dunhams and bought a Turk, then a K-31, another K-31, an SKS, a 91/30, a 24/47, 2 more K-31's, a Springfield, an Arisaka, a Mas 36..... I still don't have an M95, because I have not solved the ammo problem.

Thanks for the good ideas. I think I have it licked. I polished the ejector some, polished the slot a bunch, and tried another ejector box I had. I think the new spring made the most difference. Unfortunately, that was the ugliest, pitted ejector box I had. I killed two deer with the rifle last year. The second was in a field, at the top of the hill, in 6 inches of snow. At the shot, he ran into 2 feet of snow while I fought with the rifle, trying to load another round. I probably wouldn't have stopped him any quicker with a second shot, but I don't want any more malfunctions. The rifle is a highly customized K Kale in a wildcat I call "8x58 bja105." Its a military 8x57 with too much headspace. I make brass from 30-06, sized to fit the chamber. "Customizations" include a bore pitted to resemble the lunar surface, barrel cut off with a sawzall, crown precision cut with a file and a cordless drill, and a cheap scope. This rifle looks terrible, but shoots 1.5" groups with no problem.

My K Kale Turk with mismatched bolt does not always eject. The bolt has a lot of play when open, and if it is twisted too much counter clockwise, the ejector does not slide into the groove in the bolt head. I tried all the ejectors I have on hand, with no difference. I polished the insides of the bolt head slot with fine sand paper, no help. Does anyone have a safe, cheap fix? Can I sand the slot enough bigger to let the ejector hit it with any twist? Will that create an unsafe situation? Anything better than sandpaper?

No crossbolt safety. It has a tang safety that DOES NOT WORK!! I'll get some pictures for you, pics of what not to do. No safety makes the rifle useless as a hunting rifle, but it was free. Never fired, only dropped once.