ghost95

Thanks.

Hello all, I have a few bolts I need bent ot welded. Do you all have any recomendations for someone who does this? I have three 98 style and one 96 Swedish bolt that i need done. Thanks for any recomendations. C-

Sorry, the term was dysgenics. I tried to copy and paste the def. but its not working...I don't understand this site.

Thanks guys. Yes I measured both the extractor and the lug, the lug was closest. I also believe the chamber issue shouldn't be a big deal, just going to go slow. Piecing various parts from different rifles together is interesting to say the least. At least I'm learning alot. Thanks again.

Ok all, I just re-measured the receiver. From the face to the highest point on the bolt lug is .618". Current barrel shank is .634" , so... .618" - .005" for clearance = .613 overall. and... The barrel shank is .634" - 613" = .021" to trim. Sound right? The chamber will be recut with a finish reamer. Thanks, C-

Thanks for the replys. Wehad to put our dog down last night so it may be a bit before i get back on this. C-

Thanks guys. First off the barrel is a take off from an older project that I stared a while back. It was attached to the spanish receiver from another posr. It had to be trimmed to fit that receiver. Alos, the swedish receiver I'm using now has been cleaned up. I guess I'll research the specs a little bit and then figure out what I need to take off but I guess it will have to go to a machine shop. Thanks again. C-

Today I converted the rifle to cock on opening. It helps with feeding quite a bit. Next comes shaping a new extractor that will grip the cartridge base better. Should be fun.

Hello guys, I am in search of advice. I am working on a Swedish mauser. The shank on the barrel I'm installing is too long. When screwed all the way in it locks up the bolt. I measured the shank and the distance from the receiver face to the highest point on the bolt. Allowing for .002 or .003 crush fit and .002 for bolt clearance I need to reove .020 from the barrel face. My question is, is there a way to take this off evenly without a lathe? Before I just start attacking the barrel with a file I was hoping to get some more ideas. Thanks for your ideas. c-

What the #@%$. Why can't I upload a photo???

Well, I had a spanish action that I just didn't feel good about so, I ordered a conversion kit and decided to turn it into a .45. I know, but it is so stupid it's awesome. It's also a blast to shoot. No recoil and big holes. It really blasts the crap out of beer cans. This franken mauser is a small ring, with a VZ24 rear sight and a 1903 front. She is still a work in progress and will end up with a different sight because neither of these are adjustable for windage. I am also planning to convert the bolt to cock on opening as it will make the feeding a bit easier. Hope you all enjoy the picture. Don't be too upset with me. This was all for fun. C-

Check out the movie idiocracy. It's a parodyon the idea but it terrified my girlfriend. She's sure it is where we are headed. Instead of eugenics I believe they use the disgenics theory in the movie.

Yeah, not a good idea. Years ago she was highly unimpressed with the dry ice and a coke bottle thing. I told her it was educational. We learned about in science class at school. Even that was small compared to the time she caught me throwing the old glass 1ltr. coke bottles full of gas into a bonfire. I was 5. I'm surprised she has managed to keep a grip on her sanity after all these years. Strong woman she is.

Thanks for the info. I think I'm back on track. The comments about pressures in the Sweed that I am building just got me to thinking. I mean I've talked to people who have loaded up hot pistol rounds that were beginning to show pressure signs and they were doing that at, I'm guessing, 25k psi. When I looked at things like that everything got a little fuzzy. Maybe they weren't true pressure signs but a manifestation of something else that is in handguns specifically. The reading I was doing on the interwebz made it sound like the signs of excess pressure appeared at different levels for different rifles. I.E. signs appear in a Rem. 700 at 65k psi. but it only takes 57k psi. to show up in a Mauser. That seemed wrong, and it was. Pressure is pressure as far as the receiver is concerned. Thanks again for the help. Maybe one of these days you all will get to see a picture of a rifle I actually complete. I'm getting close. C- P.S. I still giggle when I make things go Boom. I just prefer it to be more than 1/4" from my nose. Tannerite is awesome!

Ok, I think I have a better idea about what I was asking. Thanks pacrat. What I conclude form this is that in a Swedish Mauser, with a properly sized chamber and good bolt, and a properly sized case and seated bullet, I should probably not ever see pressure signs if loading to the published data for the older actions. Even to max loads. Pressures signs don't seem to start showing on cases in properly sized rifles and components until pressures quite a bit beyond the max listed 50k to 52k are reached. Also, it is possible to have a load for a Swedish Mauser that shows no signs of excess pressure but is quite a bit beyond the "generally recommended" operating pressure of the action. Basically, I can over pressure the action before I over pressure the components in an older action like this. Thanks again. I think I have a clearer picture of this now. C-

I guess you could use this same question for velocity. If load A develops 60k psi and pushes a 150 grain bullet at 3000 fps... Would load B that also develops 60k psi but at a slower rate still produce a velocity of 3000fps with all other things being equal? 60k is 60k right?

Thanks guys. I'm really not interested in hot loads, just accurate ones. I know that sometimes the most accurate loads are a little on the hot side sometimes on the low side. My question was more specifically about pressure signs in general. I think I'm getting a bit of an idea between here and conversations among friends at work. I do tend to get a lot of answers about which action is stronger and how you can't compare a Rem.700 to a 96 Mauser. That part is academic. Also I'm not hung up on the primer thing but rather any sign of excess pressure. I am still having a hard time wrapping my head around the pressure thing though. I understand the effects of excessive headspace and seating bullets into the lands and such but those things CAUSE high pressures. Im trying to get my brain around what happens after the pressure develops because that instant is what will do the damage. Let's say a case will show pressure signs at 65k psi with load A. Then we make up load B which also develops 65k psi but with a slower powder. Will load B also show signs of pressure because 65k psi is 65k psi or, is it possible that it will not show signs because the time to develop the 65k psi was slower? (assuming all other variables are the same) C-

Thanks for the reply. I think I may not be explaining my self well. I understand that there are different loads to reach pressure signs but are there different pressures that make them appear? Let's say it takes 65k psi to flatten a primer in a 6.5 x 55 Rem.700. Wouldn't it still take 65k psi. to flatten the primer in a 6.5 x 55 mauser? It doesn't make sense that pressure signs would appear at lower pressures in different rifles and yet there is a ton of advice to load to pressure signs and then back off a bit regardless of the rifle. It may all be internet BS but there is so much of it out there that it gets confusing. It seems to me that the small ring action, if loaded to the pressures it was designed to handle, should never be capable of showing pressure signs. Or am I wrong? I hope I helped explain my question a bit better.

Hello all, I have begun yet another project. Maybe one day I'll get one of these completed. Anyway, it's a Mauser 6.5 sporter on a Swedish '96 action. I was reading about the load and I came across a picture of a Mauser bolt where both lugs had been sheared off. It was on a castboolits forum. There was no other info available but it appeared to be a classic overpressure just by looking at the brass. What got me thinking was all the comments from people who handload for this cartridge. I know the rifle used lower pressure rounds between 45k and 50k psi but everyone talks about loading until they see pressure signs and then backing it off a little bit. That didn't seem right. To me it seems that pressure has to do with the round not the rifle that it is fired from so...how would pressure signs in a 6.5 differ from those of a '06? If it takes 65k psi to show as pressure in a Remington 700 wouldn't it take 65k psi to show pressure in a 6.5 Mauser. I know that there are pressure curves that may partially explain this but a flattened primer is a flattened primer (assuming you are at the top of the loading data) right? I felt that I was pretty competent in reloading but now I have questions that make me a little unsure of myself. It seems like working up to signs of pressure in a 6.5 will take you out of the design spec in a hurry. With the pressures that this round was designed to operate at should you ever see pressure signs? Thanks for any light you all can shed on this. C-

Thanks for the reply. I missed the chrome lined part some how. It looks like I'll have to ream this chamber. I have a pull through reamer so I'll just use that. Thanks for responding.

Thanks for the reply. As it stands the chamber will have to be reamed to properly head space. With the barrel hand tight the bolt will not close on a go gauge. My main concern is that the barrel might be chrome lined and if that would require a special kind of reamer? Thanks again for the reply. I look forward to getting this build together. C-

Hello all, I am rebarreling an 03A3 with a new USGI barrel from remington. It has the flaming bomb marking, RA, and a date of 5-43. My question, is this a chrome lined barrel, or how do I tell if it is? By just fitting it by hand it looks like I will need to finish ream the chamber. If it is chrome lined how do I do that? Do I need a special reamer? Thanks for the help. C-

Actually the collar stayed on during the heat treatment. I guess I won't try and remove it until I get a couple in stock. Since there is no advice against using it the way it is, Ill just see what happens. Thanks guys. c-

Yeah, I've been trying to come up with a way that I could blow myself up by the extractor being too hard. Not having any luck yet. Which is a good thing.

Hello all, Do you guys think that a Mauser extractor collar that went through heat treat with the bolt will be ok to use? I sent the bolts off without removing the collars and they were processed on the bolts. It dosen't seem like it's a part that would cause too much problems because it's not subject to too much stress or wear. Is there something that I might be missing? Thanks for any replys. C-