Clemson

I have switched over to Grovtec swivels. They are U.S. made and very high quality. https://grovtec.com/ Bill Jacobs

Douglas has become my go-to barrel supplier. I'll buy from someone else if the customer wants me to, but when left to my own devices, it's Douglas for me. I have never been disappointed. https://benchrest.com/douglas/html/pricing.html Bill Jacobs

222 Magnum is longer than 223 Remington (5.56 mm).

Well, the answer is.................. Zek hit it pretty close. I took off the Winchester tenon and started reaming. Had to take an additional 1/8 inch to clear up the old chamber visually. I cut the new tenon, including the safety breech boss, and will thread tomorrow. I think I will be around .010 short with the chamber based on what I have measured off the GO gauge. I can deepen that amount by hand. Interesting exercise. I would not recommend this operation unless you have a really good bull barrel that you want to use and must have a 6mm Bill Jacobs

Thanks! I am just trying to avoid cutting a chamber twice. I'll over-correct on the initial cut and hope that it is enough to clean things up. Basically, a miss would mean double work for me.

Lest anyone think I am too lazy to try to determine this, my calipers, set on the shoulder of a fired .243 case, show me that I need to lose about 7/8 inches of that 243 chamber. That will remove all the threads from the Winchester barrel plus about 1/8 inch of cylinder. When I cut the new tenon, I'll have about 1/2 inch of cylinder left. I would still be interested in your experience, however. I would hate to go to the trouble if cutting, threading, and chambering and find that I'm leaving a line on the case where the old shoulder used to be.

If any of you have made this conversion, how much barrel did you have to cut off to get the 6mm chamber to clean up the 243 shoulders? The barrel is a bull-barrel from a Winchester model 70, and it is going on a Yugo M48 Mauser action, so I have to lose all the tenon anyway. I still have roughly 1 1/4 inch of cylinder to cut a new tenon and threads and the boss for the safety breech. Bill Jacobs

Too high for my blood. I'll sell a couple for that kind of money.

Find somebody who will hydro dip it for you.

Great post and super write up! Thanks!

Nothing coming up for me either. Maybe the great hack got to them.

BTT. I hope the rest of you guys are helping Tony out on this. Skip the Deli sandwich for lunch tomorrow, and send FC a bit of pocket change to help the cause! Bill Jacobs

Well I, for one, am mighty glad to see you back on line. If you need financial help, say so. Bill Jacobs

25-06, 270, 30-06, 338-06, and 35 Whelen all use the same headspace gauges. Bill Jacobs

You did well on those. I'm seeing Model 10's push $650 in the right places.

I probably have one. I'll look when I get to the shop tomorrow. Bill Jacobs

I use a Forster jig to Drill and Tap a barreled action. I really prefer that to the milling machine. If, however, you want to pull the barrel, make an index mark on the barrel and receiver at the bottom where it won't show. Reinstall the barrel to line up the marks, and you will be good to go. Bill Jacobs

Never had one of those in the shop that I recall. Bill Jacobs

Update: looks like it is going to sell for $350. Don't have the money in hand yet, however!

S&W 340 Airlite in 357 mag with Speer Gold Dot Short Barrel load.

I think around 350 would make it a fair return to the owner and a good buy for a shooter. An original would have to be better than a Chinese copy. It actually looks good. Thanks for confirming this in my mind. Bill

I have a Model 97 Winchester 12 gauge in the shop for a consignment sale. The gun is mechanically sound, and the wood seems OK, but somewhere along the line it was used as a prison gun, and the handguard or barrel shroud was removed. What kind of money would a gun like that be worth to the cowboy action folks? Bill Jacobs

Read through this thread to see a Brownells Remington wrench modified for a Jap receiver: http://www.sporterizing.com/index.php?showtopic=9108 Bill Jacobs

It's a polyurethane. I was not aware of anything else.

Here is a "secret" for you: Minwax Wipe On Poly is an astoundingly good stock finish. I use the "Clear Satin." Bill Jacobs