Jump to content
Military Firearm Restoration Corner
Sign in to follow this  
Sailormilan2

Stock Finish

Recommended Posts

I've decided to change the stock in my MkX Mauser. Currently it has a Butler Creek stock. I like the style, but the for end has too much flex.

I'm going to replace it with XX grade Maple stock. A blem I got from Richards MicroFit. Blemmed due to milling chatter marks that I am sure that can get out. I even found a black limbsaver pad to put on it.

So, here is the question. Should I use Tung Oil or Satin Poly? I've figured out a liile easier way to do Tung, but Poly is easier still and more water proof. This is my deer rifle.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Should I use Tung Oil or Satin Poly? I've figured out a liile easier way to do Tung, but Poly is easier still and more water proof. This is my deer rifle.

I'm a believer in the Poly Urethane as being more durable and just as attractive. I've seen it sold in rub on form at Home Depot.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I use the polyurethane. I think it is easier for me than other finishes. I airbrush it on. I have some of that wipe on stuff I got at Lowes, and I airbrush that as well. Comes out better than wiping it on.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Neither ;

Tru-oil.

Sand the stock working down to 1200 paper till the wood shines.

When you can read the time from you watch in the reflection of the wood you are ready to start to apply.

Use tru-oil ..filler and stain.

Rub smooth with 0000 steel wool.

apply 7 coats of tru-oil and allow a day to dry between coats.

rub smooth with 0000 steel wool between coats.

after the last coat of tru-oil:

Apply 7 coats of wax.

it will look good

 

karl

 

P.S.

As it is a hunting rifle..gonna get wet..apply a few coats of tru-oil to the inside of the stock as well.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The last stock that I reworked to remove small dents and marks, I used Formby's Tung oil, 3 coats IIRC, rubbed in and with a long drying session between, being careful to keep the checkering clean. Then I used around 10 very light coats of satin polyurethane aerosol for that hard protective top coat. I spent a lot of time on this project, and the pics don't do it justice.

 


[apost-237-0-53208200-1410275509_thumb.jpgttachment=2433:308ls_1.jpg]

 

 

Spiris

post-237-0-81775600-1410275479_thumb.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I generally use Formby's Tung Oil. I did buy a can of pure tung oil but only used it on one stock due to it turning the stock dark. It's kind of like wiping down a stock with SAE 20 motor oil.

I plan on trying Tru-Oil on the next stock I finish.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yeah, a gunsmith at a shop I used to frequent years ago told me about that technique. He had experimented with all of them, brushes, old T shirts, you name it and found the airbrush worked best. I tried it and it does an amazing job. And with an airbrush setup with a compressor for well under a hundred bucks at HF, you can't go wrong.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  

×