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Military Firearm Restoration Corner

Machining Reciever


trobi

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i have a tool making company who will machine the stripper guide off my reciever. if i want them to also machine the crest off the front , will they also need to machine the same amount of metal off the rear or will it not make that much difference. Will the reciever need to be reheat treated? Thanks.

kingsman OPERA NON VERBA

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i have a tool making company who will machine the stripper guide off my reciever. if i want them to also macine the crest off the front , will they also need to machine the same amount of metal off the rear or will it not make that much difference. will the reciever need to be reheat treated. thanks

kingsman OPERA NON VERBA

 

 

YES. If you search for "heat treat" it should bring up previous topics that have some places you can send it. The crest should be covered by the scope mount, and after it is polished or bead blasted it won't be that noticeable. Heat treat is gonna run you about 70-90 dollars. Is it worth not having the crest?...........Scott

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Grinding a crest (if done correctly) is not cause for heat treating. If the interior (locking lug seat) are hard enough then it matters not if you grind on the outside.

 

If they are removing the charger hump then you should take a long the bases you intend to use so that the surafces can be ground so that the bases are at the same height. I lean toward taking more off the front than the rear when tryingto eventhings out because the bolt guide slot is fairly thin and the base screw can strip if you take too much off.

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Grinding a crest (if done correctly) is not cause for heat treating. If the interior (locking lug seat) are hard enough then it matters not if you grind on the outside.

 

If they are removing the charger hump then you should take a long the bases you intend to use so that the surafces can be ground so that the bases are at the same height. I lean toward taking more off the front than the rear when tryingto eventhings out because the bolt guide slot is fairly thin and the base screw can strip if you take too much off.

 

Won't "machining off" the crest also remove the case hardening? I understand what you're saying about the locking lug seat being the critical area, but isn't the outside case hardening important?.....Scott

 

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Won't "machining off" the crest also remove the case hardening? I understand what you're saying about the locking lug seat being the critical area, but isn't the outside case hardening important?.....Scott

Not really. Only the bearing surfaces are important.

-Don

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Won't "machining off" the crest also remove the case hardening? I understand what you're saying about the locking lug seat being the critical area, but isn't the outside case hardening important?.....Scott

 

Yes, machining off the crest will remove whatever case hardening was applied to the exterior of the receievr ring but, that is not where it really matters. You have to understand that depending on when the mauser was made, different methods of case hardeniig where used. The earliest used pack hardening and material was litterally only packed onto the surfaces that were critical like the lug seats, and various camming surfaces. These tended to be very soft on the outside but harder inside where needed. Later methods tended to apply the case more evenly even to the exterior. Not necessarily because it added strength but because it was faster and easier.

 

So, you don't have to have the actioned hardened just because you remove the crest. But it wouldn't hurt either and you know afterward that the seats and bolt lugs will be properly hardened.

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