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bja105

How Do You Hold Things Ia A Vise?

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I think I need one of those receiver holding fixtures, unless the group has a cheap way for me to make one.

 

What about Mauser bottom metal and floor plates. I have not found a way to hold it securely without warping, twisting, smushing...

 

Any pics would help.

 

thanks

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bja105,

Do you mean a standard bench vise, or a milling machine vise?

In a standard bench vise, I have some 1/2" thick black rubber pads that I use for padding. Usually I don't have to tighten down like Conan the Barbarian to get it to hold, although, some times things still creep around a bit.

The strongest place to tighten down on is the part that the trigger comes through, right behind the magazine box, and right below thw trigger bow (when the guard is held upside down). The sides are pretty parallel here as well.

In a milling machine vise, you can put your parallels under this area and you reciever will remain reasonably flat.

Manitou

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hey ya'll, I took an old 98 lr barrel ands cut it down to about 10" long screw into the action then lock the shortened barrel into the vise. works for me!

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strait shooter, good idea! How do you control that the receiver isn't rolled a little, side to side? Maybe with a level?

I can see how parallels would get you square in one axis, but it's the Y axis I'm having trouble with.

Could be a great time saver though.

Manitou

 

 

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manitou, i have a magnetic 4way tee level i mount on it. i then scribe and paint an index on the short barrel. thatwould put it upright each time. Dave

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I think I need one of those receiver holding fixtures, unless the group has a cheap way for me to make one.

 

What about Mauser bottom metal and floor plates. I have not found a way to hold it securely without warping, twisting, smushing...

 

Any pics would help.

 

thanks

i am building a receiver holding fixture right now. i bought a hunk of scrap steel about 10 inches long, 1 inch wide and 4 inches tall from the local steel house bargain bin. that and a chunk of same sized aluminum was $5 total. now i am on the hunt for a chunk of round stock that is close to the diameter of a mauser bolt.

 

then, it's just a matter of drilling and tapping some holes!

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Here's what I made to hold the receivers. I like some things about it, but other things I would like to be different.

It sure holds a receiver steady, but I have to use a dial indicator on the round bar to true it up, and this takes time.

post-1098-1171245874_thumb.jpg

 

Here is the same fixture with a receiver installed.......

post-1098-1171246009_thumb.jpg

 

I hope this works, I'm not to good at the uploading of pictures.

 

Manitou

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Oh, and the round bar is about ø.705. Now don't make to much fun of my finishing skills, I'm still learning about these centerfire contraptions. I'm certainly no donmarkey or racepres or z1r or slseacrist. Now I know I left at least three or four talented people out, but it's not intentional.

Can you see the detents in the round bar where I drilled the scope mount holes?

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Here's what I made to hold the receivers. I like some things about it, but other things I would like to be different.

It sure holds a receiver steady, but I have to use a dial indicator on the round bar to true it up, and this takes time.

 

Manitou

 

I have the same problem with the wheeler jig I used to use. But I use a indexing jig and a receiver mandrel for truing the outside and removing the changer guide now.

-Don

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hey ya'll, I took an old 98 lr barrel ands cut it down to about 10" long screw into the action then lock the shortened barrel into the vise. works for me!

 

I hate to mention this, but you have just manufactured a shot barreled rifle. Have you bought your tax stamp?

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I beleive I saw your indexing charger removing guide, and it's a beauty.

That's the one where you can rotate the receiver 15° either way, and keep the proper radius, right?

Pretty impressive.

Well done.

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I beleive I saw your indexing charger removing guide, and it's a beauty.

That's the one where you can rotate the receiver 15° either way, and keep the proper radius, right?

Pretty impressive.

Well done.

No I haven't ever posted it. I'll try to get a pic on it tomorrow, it's the same type that Mark Stratton uses. You can rotate the action in 1deg intervals. You can use it in a surface grinder or in the mill as I do.

-Don

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hey ya'll, I took an old 98 lr barrel ands cut it down to about 10" long screw into the action then lock the shortened barrel into the vise. works for me!

 

You should plug and weld the muzzle end and drill hole through the chamber to make sure Uncle Sam doesn't think you have a "short barreled rifle".

Kenny

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I hate to mention this, but you have just manufactured a shot barreled rifle. Have you bought your tax stamp?

However If you weld the bore shut, you have a tool again!

BTW Manitou, I do not deserve to be considered on a level w/ those [and others] names here!! If there is a "Bubba" here it is me! I like your fixture!! Thanks for sharing it.. MV

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my fixture will look very similar. and i may have found a piece of metal to use for the round stock.... a bolt i bought on ebay is trashed and with some modification, might just work!

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76517986.jpg

76517950.jpg

 

This is the system I use. The steel block on the bottom sandwiches the receiver to an aluminum strip that rests on the bolt raceways with some socket head bolts. This gives me plenty of room for drilling and tapping or other receiver work.

I also made my own receiver wrench that I can use to hold the receiver for reaming the chamber by hand.

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racepres, "Bubba's Unite!"

Seriously, I try not to be a bubba, but I've got a long way to go.

 

odies dad, my reciever wrench looks much like your's, but the long part on the bottom of your's, I have cut short and threaded a ø1.00" rod to the center, perpendicular to your handle. I can already see the advantages of your system because I had to re-do my handle once already. Your handle looks very strong.

I'd post pictures of my barrel vise and receiver wrench, but they're at work, and I'm at home. Work is where I take barrels off and put new ones on, but they don't like guns much, and I have to be somewhat discreet. I don't hate them for it, i just am more clandestine about it.

Thanks for all of your pictures. I love this forum...............

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I usually need to put a 3-4' piece of pipe over the wrench handle for some extra leverage. I will tear the vice off the bench before it will bend this thing.

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I also put a big "Cheater" pipe on my action wrench, but I put my barrel vise in the hydraulic press at work, and it helps hold the barrel.

I don't know if I mentioned this on this forum, but I will put one wrap of double sticky (carpet) tape between the barrel and the bushing, and it realy helps eliminate slipping.

Not the foam backed tape, but the fabric backed tape that is thinner and tougher.

I don't think that the foam type would work as well.

Manitou

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Manitou, nice looking inlays on that muzzle loader in the background! Did you do that work yourself? How about more photos of that?!

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Manitou, nice looking inlays on that muzzle loader in the background! Did you do that work yourself? How about more photos of that?!

 

montea6b,

I'm not sure that this is the proper forum for those pictures.

I'll upload them, but, Moderators, if I'm in the wrong, I'll take them down right away.

It's sterling silver ribbon wire inlay. You cut a channel by driving a narrow thin chisel ( made from a hacksaw blade) into the wood along your pre-drawn pencil line, following your pattern, and then you place the silver ribbon in on end, and gently tap into place. It helps to have your channel deep enough, and a bevel on the end of the wire that you are inserting. It's also helpful to pull the flats of the ribbon along a file before inserting to score the wire and help it hold in the groove better.

When you do a cross-over, one wire is continuous and the other has to be cut, and butted up against the continuous one.

When you're done, use a chisel to shave off the excess, because a file will roll a burr that's darn near impossible to remove.

This is from a .54 caliber walnut stocked English sporting rifle that was given to me as parts. I'm finishing it little by little, trying to use mostly hand tools.

Anyway, here's the pictures.

post-1098-1171587523_thumb.jpg

post-1098-1171587570_thumb.jpg

post-1098-1171587623_thumb.jpg

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I'm getting ready to build a 45-70 on a siamese action. EVERYTHING is different on these so I made my own mandrel that will work with a brownells receiver contouring fixture. The front end is .750 and the tang end is .700

Thread is .990x14

post-200-1171776843_thumb.jpg

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I'm getting ready to build a 45-70 on a siamese action. EVERYTHING is different on these so I made my own mandrel that will work with a brownells receiver contouring fixture. The front end is .750 and the tang end is .700

Thread is .990x14

post-200-1171776843_thumb.jpg

 

Nice mandrel, and nice lathe too! Is that a South Bend?

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