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Turk Bolt Length?


Kahouna

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Hey everyone! Been cruising for a while getting more information and thought I'd ask away.

 

I have a Turk that I am trying to bring back to life. It was a parts gun and there wasn't much left when it came time to do something with it. I have the receiver and miscellaneous parts. I ordered a turned down bolt for scoping. The bolt I got is about 3/8's" too long. I tried an M48 bolt and it works fine (shorter). I put a K98 bolt in and I ran into it being too long like the one I ordered. Is the receiver considered an intermediate when it comes to the bolt?

 

Thanks guys!

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Hey everyone! Been cruising for a while getting more information and thought I'd ask away.

 

I have a Turk that I am trying to bring back to life. It was a parts gun and there wasn't much left when it came time to do something with it. I have the receiver and miscellaneous parts. I ordered a turned down bolt for scoping. The bolt I got is about 3/8's" too long. I tried an M48 bolt and it works fine (shorter). I put a K98 bolt in and I ran into it being too long like the one I ordered. Is the receiver considered an intermediate when it comes to the bolt?

 

Thanks guys!

 

Welcome.

 

If it's a 98 style action then yes, you would have an intermediate length action also known as the 1903. It should have a higher than normal charger hump on the rear bridge as well as a semi circular notch in the trailing edge of the front ring. Nice actions if they aren't rust buckets.

 

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Oooops. Little things that might help. 1937 Ankara

 

You got it on the high charge hump and bullet notch on the back of the front ring.

 

It doesn't look too bad. I've seen worse, but wanted to put one together to say I can do it.

 

How much do I need to file off on the charger hump?

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I would use a 1903 Bolt. The Yugo's are different on the boltface. Since I'm on vacation in the remotest regions of TX I don't have any to compare to describe the exact differences. Suffice it to say, an M48 bolt can be made to work but I'd locate an original 1903. No, if you were using a yugo just use all the guts and it will work, no need to swap cocking pieces.

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How much do I need to file off on the charger hump?

 

Kahouna,

 

If it were mine I'd leave the hump - I think it's cool! But if you really don't like it I'm pretty sure that you can take it right down to rest of the rear action ring - that's a lot of grinding and filing.

 

Z1R has a page somewhere (hopefully when he's back from the nether parts of TX he'll link it again) about how to grind these (or 98s anyway) down just right.

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Here are a couple of receivers that I removed the stripper clip lips from. Pretty easy with a mill.

Some of the guys here with more talent than I possess, use files with the same results.

 

post-200-1195712755_thumb.jpg

post-200-1195713737_thumb.jpg

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Cool! Thanks guys for all the information. The one and only Turk bolt I have left is pretty munged up. The front 1/4th has stress cracks that you can see. I don't even want to know what THAT felt like.

 

My M48 bolts are already dedicated to rifles. If I can talk the maker of the turned down bolt to swap me for the proper length, what other concerns should I be asking for? The only other parts I need for the bolt is a firing pin spring and extractor.

 

I see so many of these that the hump is removed for scope bases. I personally don't want to have to file that down. The front of the receiver was bad enough. I was just making sure that when I ordered a base, I would not get frustrated that it didn't fit because of something I did/didn't do.

 

The ejector I have is the one that goes all the way to the stripper clip guides. Is there any cool ways to form this so it looks "different" than a standard K98 style?

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