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Military Firearm Restoration Corner

98 Receiver Lug Setback


ROYCEO

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:( I purchased a previously sporterized 98 Mauser recently for a project gun. On inspection by my gunsmith, I was informed that the receiver had suffered from lug setback. The rest of the parts are all in good shape, but I'm going to need to purchase a new receiver. Does anyone know of a good source for a standard length receiver? Thanks in advance, Royce.
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Does your barrel have iron sights? Is it drilled & tapped? I ask because it is possible to salvage your action. It would require about as much effort as refitting the barrel to a new receiver and may be cheaper if you have to have the new one drilled & tapped, etc.

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Does your barrel have iron sights? Is it drilled & tapped? I ask because it is possible to salvage your action. It would require about as much effort as refitting the barrel to a new receiver and may be cheaper if you have to have the new one drilled & tapped, etc.

 

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Then this would be a relatively straight forward fix. I'm sure it will cost a good deal less than buying a new receiver and having it D&T'd.

 

Where are you located. If in the US, it would be simple. Outside and you may well have to replace.

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Then this would be a relatively straight forward fix. I'm sure it will cost a good deal less than buying a new receiver and having it D&T'd.

 

Where are you located. If in the US, it would be simple. Outside and you may well have to replace.

I'm in San Angelo, Texas.

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I drove through there in November. Only the second time I'd seen snow in TX. The other time was in about 83 or 84 when we got thirteen inches in San Antonio.

 

Since you're stateside having the receiver fixed is an option. I've done several.

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I drove through there in November. Only the second time I'd seen snow in TX. The other time was in about 83 or 84 when we got thirteen inches in San Antonio.

 

Since you're stateside having the receiver fixed is an option. I've done several.

Hey Z, what's involved in repairing the receiver? What kind of costs would be involved?

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Pm or email me and we can discuss. About half what it costs to buy a new receiver and have it drilled & tapped, maybe less. If the receiver is in otherwise good shape, this is the route I would go.

 

 

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Generally!! Lap 'er back smooth.. then heat-treat! [Carburize]sp. MV

 

Sort of. But, if you use your bolt it will wear at an angle the leading edge will do all the work and you'll have ramped lugs instead of flat. A little more to it.

 

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Sort of. But, if you use your bolt it will wear at an angle the leading edge will do all the work and you'll have ramped lugs instead of flat. A little more to it.

That's why I leave that kinda stuff to the Experts.. Generally!! MV

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If your having the action carburised, could'nt you use a lug lapping tool (easy to make if you have access to a lathe) to remove the imprint (this will increase headspace, so barrel will most likely need to be turned back an additional thread or two and rechambered) if you closed the bolt put pressure on a rod down the barrel you could measure how much it set back by how far you can push the rod back and forth with a go guage in the barrel and decide if you are comfortable removing what will be necessary for it to be flat. just some ideas if you have the equipment to do this you can, everything but the carburising , nothing to this point is rocket science.

 

food for thought ,and a more satisfying alternative to sending it out if you don't have the tools a new 24/47 is about $100.00 there is a simple way of Drilling and tapping layed out in detail over on steve wagners site for the scope mount (cost of mount,super glue, drill and tap) . you would probably have to rechamber the barrel if you swap it (barrel vise 60.00, action vise easily made )to a 24/47 but you could then send the reamer($100.00) (go and no go guages $30) linto the co-op and have access to all the reamers isted for future projects (you don't know it yet but your hooked). You could use all of the parts from this one on a future project or sell them to recoup some of your cost.

 

290.00 +/- 50 in tools

 

doing it yourself Priceless

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Yes I do mean the springloaded tool (a homemade tool is out there that does the same thing)if you are recaurburising the action the amount you will need to remove won't matter if it gets into the case hardening.

 

To re- index(back to 12 o'clock not 1 or 3) the barrel I would have to add 1 full thread (360 degrees one turn ) which means I would have to shorten the barrel stub to the right length and rechamber(so you can understand this, it will not screw in anymore if the stub is butting againt the inner c ring so a new chamber will be necessary). please explain to me how to turn the barrel one full turn without a full thread.

 

please post back if any of this is not understandable I did not give technical specifications on the first part of my post because I was trying to get the guy not to throw good money after bad on that action. The work required would have cost more than $260.00 correct ?

 

I was not trying to cockblock anyone selling work, but this is a do it your self forum, give him the option of doing it himself if he can't he will ask for someone to do it for him. he actually could do anything here himself if he has a lathe and sent the action to be caurburised, if he doesn't he will ask.

 

Royceo I was trying to sell you on the second part of my post don't waste anymore money on this action, look into sarco if you need to a 98 action is 69.99 , neither jerk off made a comment on the validity of that part.

 

if there is anything wrong above please correct me because in lapping lugs you are dealing in hundreds not thousandths already and I have never heard of a problem with that other than wearing through the heat treat which you have covered with the caurburisation.

 

Roy

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Roy,

 

The spring loaded lapping tool will still leave you with ramped lugs. Or I should say, can leave you with ramped lugs. I already explained how. To correct this it is best NOT to use the bolt. That is fine for lapping lugs but not for fixing damaged lug seats.

 

It will cost less to fix the receiver than to buy another, have it drilled & tapped, and have the bridge contoured. And, you end up with a better receiver, one that you KNOW the hardness of.

 

You are assuming that the rifle has iron sights. If they are screwd on, you are right that you must, most likely, set the barrel back a turn then rechamber. If it has the original military sights you just adjust the shoulders and then adjust the sights by heating til the solder runs and then re-indexing them. If there are no sights, then adjusting the shoulders is all that is needed.

 

Fixing setback is not the same as simply lapping lugs. Similar in concept but not the same. Have you ever corrected lug setback?

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Thanks Z1R, I have lapped a couple of rifles, 1 turk with only one lug contacting but no I have not corrected setback. I am a little confused about it though putting aside using the lapping tool, Would'nt facing the c ring in a lathe or even pushing a valve grinding compound coated washer conected to a rod pushed into a receiver from the front and turned until all was true, work as long as it was heat treated afterwards? The second example is definetly bubba but I am using to emphasize that the operation is not very hard to perform (even a dremel cut off wheel worn down to size and inserted into the receiver from the front would work folowed by the lapping tool)it is the heat treat that is paramount. I am a do it your selfer so don't be offended by me wanting answers that can be performed by the home gunsmith (which carburising is not) I know you do great work, I have learned alot from your posts but I have never done anything I do to rifles now, before I did it the first time. I hope you can understand this. its the reason I like this board so much my last post had a little bit of anger in it so I owe you an apology not the jerk offs only you, just kidding the jerkoffs too.

 

Love Roy, I feel warm inside

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Would'nt facing the c ring in a lathe or even pushing a valve grinding compound coated washer conected to a rod pushed into a receiver from the front and turned until all was true, work as long as it was heat treated afterwards?

 

Unlike a 96, 95, 93, you can't reach the lug seats from the front, the "C" ring gets in the way. Remember, the "C" ring is where the barrel rests against, the bolt lugs do not contact it. So, you can't just use a washer and lapping compound. Too much Steve Wagner browsing, lol.

 

Machining the seats works, but kinda hard for the amatuer to do. If he could, he wouldn't be having someone else barrel his action for him. Correcting setback on pre-98's is fairly straight forward, much harder to do right on 98's.

 

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