J&g's Ar-15's

[AzRednek]

Does anybody know anything about the Century C-15 Sporter that J&G is selling for $599. Got a call today from two different family members that want to buy them this weekend from J&G's table at the gunshow. My understanding is they are built with surplus parts and newly manufactured Century receivers. I was told most new or near new parts are Colt made. I hate being in the situation of being asked if I think they are any good then having them turn out to be junk but an AR for 600 bucks is about as cheap as it will ever be. So I told them I'd ask around. I just got out of the hospital again and likely wont be able to attend the show. If I had some spare bucks right now I'd stick 1 or 2 away as an investment. Hate to miss the gunshow, it is the last Crossroad's show while the weather is below 100+ untill October.

 

http://www.jgsales.com/product_info.php/p/...roducts_id/1826

[Doble Troble]

I don't know about a Century Arms lower. Maybe the folks over at AR15.com could help.

 

My ARs started as stripped lowers - a DPMS and a Rock River. Both of these seem to be just fine. There are probably a dozen other common manufacturers that also make good lowers. I finished the DPMS with a DPMS kit and the Rock River with a kit from Model 1 Sales. Both routes resulted in accurate and serviceable rifles. The DPMS might be just a bit smoother.

 

At a gunshow AR lowers should run from $110-$120. I'd recommend picking one or two up and then studying up on ARs to figure-out what you really want. There are a million options, and many outfits competing to provide you with parts.

 

For a straight A2 you should be able to find a kit for less than $500.

 

After working on real rifles (Mausers, Garands, etc) putting together an AR is child's play. I think I was finished with my last kit in 20 min - almost disappointing.

 

The stock triggers suck, and aftermarket triggers start at $80 and go up quick. I figured-out how to weld a tang to the right rear portion of the stock trigger and drill and tap for a 6 x 48 set screw. This allows taking all of the creep out. It also alters the geometry of the trigger which creates problems with the hammer catch (aka disconnector - you don't want a full auto )and hand-off to the sear, and with the safety - it won't engage. These problems are easy to solve with judicious grinding, but require a bold attitude (and a wallet too empty to buy a good trigger).

 

I've also heard that these mods grind through a "thin" hardened surface of the fire control group parts. After breaking more than one tap trying to install a set-screw without welding (and intentionally trying to anneal) I suggest that this is bull shite (to quote fritz).

[robdog]

I would go with the build your own. This way you can pick and choose the items you want and not pay for stuff you dont want.

[724wd]

century doesnt have the best reputation for quality. i bought a DPMS lower to go with my dad's colt surplus upper. got an offset pin to make up the difference in the large pin/small pin issue, but it should be a shooter! i'd avoid a century build if i was you. i got a CETME kit and receiver from them, but wouldn't buy one they built. rather do it myself.