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Military Firearm Restoration Corner

What A Deal!


rustvyper

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guy I work with just sold me a yugo captured m98 that his dad had tried to sporterize. The action has been miss-drilled & tapped, but he didn't drill all the way through. The charging hump has been partially ground off. & best of all there's a brand new 25-06 barrel fitted & headspaced (I checked - apparently he had an actual gunsmith do that part). Also came with a badly welded on sporter bolt handle. :) I actually knocked it off with a rubber mallet! But the bolt itself is good & I'll get that done right once I get the bolt cleaned up.

No trigger group or bottom metal, but he did give me the orginal stock which I'll flip on ebay. Total cost? -$45!!!!! When I asked him how much he wanted he named the price & I just goggled. He said, "too much?" & I said "SOLD!"

I've never really wanted a 25-06, but guess I'll have one now.

I plan to tig the holes shut that the guy drilled then re-D&T. Finish the grind job on the charging hump & install a nice bold trigger with side safety, & put a commercial shroud in place of the old one...oh yeah, the safety was gone. He swore he had it, but couldn't find it so I said no big deal. Then I think I'll put it in one of the choate blind bottom stocks & duracoat the metal a nice stainless steel. See how she turns out.

Shoot I woulda bought the barrel alone for $45! Brand new, only fired once by the GS who installed it.

Question, I've never D&T'd a reciever that's had bad holes tigged shut, or had the barrel already installed. Do I need a plug tap to do the threads? Anyway, I'm psyched about this deal. I reckon I can knock most of this out on a saturday once I get the holes tigged.

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Pull the barrel, drill through the ring using a jig for alignment, tap, reinstall barrel. It is easier to grind the hump with the barrel off also. Since it was recently replaced, it should be easy to pull and reinstall. If you are sure the headspace is OK, make a reference mark on the bottom of the barrel and the action to insure that you pull it up to the same spot when you reassemble.

 

Clemson

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Thanks Clemson. I didn't think of marking the barrel but that'll make it a lot easier to get it welded. Now I just have to find a shop in the area. Normally I'd just send it off to my brother in law, but he's in iraq right now. :(

Actually, I don't think you are too far away from me. I drive through clemson anytime I go back to NC.

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guy I work with just sold me a yugo captured m98 that his dad had tried to sporterize. The action has been miss-drilled & tapped, but he didn't drill all the way through. The charging hump has been partially ground off. & best of all there's a brand new 25-06 barrel fitted & headspaced (I checked - apparently he had an actual gunsmith do that part). Also came with a badly welded on sporter bolt handle. :) I actually knocked it off with a rubber mallet! But the bolt itself is good & I'll get that done right once I get the bolt cleaned up.

No trigger group or bottom metal, but he did give me the orginal stock which I'll flip on ebay. Total cost? -$45!!!!! When I asked him how much he wanted he named the price & I just goggled. He said, "too much?" & I said "SOLD!"

I've never really wanted a 25-06, but guess I'll have one now.

I plan to tig the holes shut that the guy drilled then re-D&T. Finish the grind job on the charging hump & install a nice bold trigger with side safety, & put a commercial shroud in place of the old one...oh yeah, the safety was gone. He swore he had it, but couldn't find it so I said no big deal. Then I think I'll put it in one of the choate blind bottom stocks & duracoat the metal a nice stainless steel. See how she turns out.

Shoot I woulda bought the barrel alone for $45! Brand new, only fired once by the GS who installed it.

Question, I've never D&T'd a reciever that's had bad holes tigged shut, or had the barrel already installed. Do I need a plug tap to do the threads? Anyway, I'm psyched about this deal. I reckon I can knock most of this out on a saturday once I get the holes tigged.

 

EXCELLENT BUY!

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It is easier to grind the hump with the barrel off also.

 

I've only done 2, but I found it easier to maintain control while rough grinding with a bench grinder if you have the barrel to hang on to. One hand maintains pressure and position of the action against the wheel, while the hand on the barrel rotates the whole assembly. Then for the finer work, the barrel can be clamped in the vise so the action can be filed/stoned and polished. It all depends on your set-up and personal preferences I guess.

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I pull the barrel to remove the hump and use a mandrel in a spin index jig with the mill. Other than that the only other way I've done it is be hand with files and stones after first breaking through the case with a grinder. good find by the way, the bolt is worth more than that.

-Don

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Thanks Clemson. I didn't think of marking the barrel but that'll make it a lot easier to get it welded. Now I just have to find a shop in the area. Normally I'd just send it off to my brother in law, but he's in iraq right now. :(

Actually, I don't think you are too far away from me. I drive through clemson anytime I go back to NC.

 

Actually, I'm in Greenwood, but if you will contact me when you are coming through, I will be glad to mark and pull the barrel for you at no charge and then reinstall it when you are done with your wizardry.

 

Clemson

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Wow! Thanks for the offer. I should be able to handle it myself NP. I'm planning on making this a 2 saturday project. I figure one day to pull the barrel & get it tigged & sand blasted. Then another day to put it all together again. We'll see if I can stick to that schedule. I'll post some pictures once I get started.

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