Food Prices Spurring Me To Garden

[FC]

It used to be that food was so cheap that it didn't pay to grow a garden, but no more. Unfortunately, our soil is largely ancient beach sand. I started a container garden using potting soil. I bought a lot of 3 gallon nursery planters on Ebay, and used cinder block to make a spot for corn. I won't see a return on investment for the soil and pressure canner this year, but food prices won't likely return to their low prices for a while, if at all. I also planted lots of fruit and nut trees, but those will need fertilization. I'll have to use chicken manure from my 19 chickens, plus some commercial fertilizer. Are any of you gardening?

Good prices for canning supplies: http://canningusa.com/

[brokengun]

I’m raising a garden again this year. I have so many food intolerances that I have to watch what I eat so raising my own is one of my few options.

 

If you buy fertilizer make sure the type you buy is for a garden. Regular lawn fertilizer has waste products in it like heavy metals that will absorbed by the plants.

 

I would also suggest you added a little sulfur to your garden since you have sand.

 

Sulfur is considered the 4 nutrient behind Nitrogen, Phosphorous and Potassium (potash). Then you need to add some magnesium and calcium.

 

The old timers got around this because they burned wood and then dumped their ashes into the garden.

 

Without knowing it they got everything they needed except extra nitrogen.

 

Here’s some info that explains it better than I can

 

Nutrient Concentration and Function in Plants

Plants require 13 mineral nutrient elements for growth. The elements that are required or necessary for plants to complete their life cycle are called essential plant nutrients. Each of these nutrients has a critical function in plants and are required in varying amounts in plant tissue (Table 1). Macronutrients (nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, calcium, magnesium and sulfur) are plant nutrients required in the largest amount in plants. Micronutrients (iron, copper, manganese, zinc, boron, molybdenum and chlorine) are required in relatively smaller amounts. Additional mineral nutrient elements which are beneficial to plants but not necessarily essential include sodium, cobalt, vanadium, nickel, selenium, aluminum and silicon. The nutrient elements differ in the form they are absorbed by the plant, by their functions in the plant, by their mobility in the plant and by the plant deficiency or toxicity symptoms characteristic of the nutrient.

Nutrient Deficiency or Toxicity

Nutrient deficiency or toxicity symptoms often differ among species and varieties of plants. A nutrient deficiency occurs when the nutrient is not in sufficient quantity to meet the needs of the growing plant. Nutrient toxicity occurs when a plant nutrient is in excess and decreases plant growth or quality. One way to understand the differences in nutrient deficiency symptoms among the plants is knowing the function and the relative mobility of the nutrient within the plant. Table 2 describes the general symptoms of nutrient deficiency and excess often observed for those nutrients. Some nutrients, such as nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, magnesium, chlorine and zinc, can be easily remobilized within the plant from old plant parts to actively growing plant parts such as young leaves. Other nutrients, such as sulfur, iron, copper, manganese, boron and calcium, are not easily remobilized within the plant. Therefore, the deficiency of the mobile elements usually initially occurs with older leaves while that of the immobile nutrients occurs with the young leaves or stem tips. Five types of deficiency or toxicity symptoms are observed:

1. Chlorosis - yellowing of plant tissue due to limitations on chlorophyll synthesis. This yellowing can be generalized over the entire plant, localized over entire leaves or isolated between some leaf veins (i.e. interveinal chlorosis).

2. Necrosis - death of plant tissue sometimes in spots.

3. Accumulation of anthocynanin resulting in a purple or reddish color.

4. Lack of new growth.

5. Stunting or reduced growth - new growth continues but it is stunted or reduced compared to normal plants.

Nutrient deficiencies may not be apparent as striking symptoms such as chlorosis on the plant, especially when mild deficiency is occurring. However, significant reductions in crop yields can occur with such deficiencies. This situation is termed "hidden hunger" and can only be detected with plant tissue analysis or yield decline. However, experience with growing a specific plant species or variety can greatly help in distinguishing poor crop performance and possible nutrient deficiency symptoms from normal plant growth.

Table 1. Essential plant nutrients: their relative amounts in plants, functions and classification

 

Name Chemical symbol Relative % in plant* Function in plant Nutrient category

Nitrogen N 100 Proteins, amino acids Primary macronutrients

Phosphorus P 6 Nucleic acids, ATP

Potassium K 25 Catalyst, ion transport

Calcium Ca 12.5 Cell wall component Secondary macronutrients

Magnesium Mg 8 Part of chlorophyll

Sulfur S 3 Amino acids

Iron Fe 0.2 Chlorophyll synthesis Micronutrients

Copper Cu 0.01 Component of enzymes

Manganese Mn 0.1 Activates enzymes

Zinc Zn 0.03 Activates enzymes

Boron B 0.2 Cell wall component

Molybdenum Mo 0.0001 Involved in N fixation

Chlorine Cl 0.3 Photosynthesis reactions

*Relative amounts of mineral elements compared to nitrogen in dry shoot tissue. May vary depending on plant species.

Table 2. Generalized Symptoms of Plant Nutrient Deficiency or Excess

 

Plant Nutrient Type Visual symptoms

Nitrogen Deficiency Light green to yellow appearance of leaves, especially older leaves; stunted growth; poor fruit development.

Excess Dark green foliage which may be susceptible to lodging, drought, disease and insect invasion. Fruit and seed crops may fail to yield.

Phosphorus Deficiency Leaves may develop purple coloration; stunted plant growth and delay in plant development.

Excess Excess phosphorus may cause micronutrient deficiencies, especially iron or zinc.

Potassium Deficiency Older leaves turn yellow initially around margins and die; irregular fruit development.

Excess Excess potassium may cause deficiencies in magnesium and possibly calcium.

Calcium Deficiency Reduced growth or death of growing tips; blossom-end rot of tomato; poor fruit development and appearance.

Excess Excess calcium may cause deficiency in either magnesium or potassium

Magnesium Deficiency Initial yellowing of older leaves between leaf veins spreading to younger leaves; poor fruit development and production.

Excess High concentration tolerated in plant; however, imbalance with calcium and potassium may reduce growth.

Sulfur Deficiency Initial yellowing of young leaves spreading to whole plant; similar symptoms to nitrogen deficiency but occurs on new growth.

Excess Excess of sulfur may cause premature dropping of leaves.

Iron Deficiency Initial distinct yellow or white areas between veins of young leaves leading to spots of dead leaf tissue.

Excess Possible bronzing of leaves with tiny brown spots.

Manganese Deficiency Interveinal yellowing or mottling of young leaves.

Excess Older leaves have brown spots surrounded by a chlorotic circle or zone.

Zinc Deficiency Interveinal yellowing on young leaves; reduced leaf size.

Excess Excess zinc may cause iron deficiency in some plants.

Boron Deficiency Death of growing points and deformation of leaves with areas of discoloration.

Excess Leaf tips become yellow followed by necrosis. Leaves get a scorched appearance and later fall off.

1. Adapted from: W.F. Bennett (editor), 1993. Nutrient Deficiencies & Toxicities in Crop Plants, APS Press, St. Paul, Minnesota.

 

Information provided by: http://www.uog.edu

[Sailormilan2]

I turned an entire corner(15'x15')of my yard into a garden, then tore up 3 10'x10' sections in the middle of my yard and put in some more garden. Mostly I have garlic, onions, squash, and tomatos. Last year the egg plant didn't come in, but I had tomatos coming out of my ears. I grew beets my first year, and made a big batch of pickled beets. First time I canned anything. They turned out well.

There are rats in my neighborhood, and I think they have been attacking my winter veggies(broccoli, cabbage, and cauliflower). So, I am going to have to clean out my wood pile I keep for projects. Hopefully, between that and my cats, that will get rid of them.

I live on what used to be river bottom, good soil.

My girl friend has finally decided to put in a small garden. She has a area almost as big as my back yard, probably 45' x 50' where she can put a garden. She just bought a large rototiller. So, we get to start working on her garden in about 2 weeks. She does not have good soil, so I think we will go to a neighboring horse boarder and get a few trailer loads of stuff from the stalls. Hopefully, that will consist of sawdust, alfalfa cubes and manuer. Rototill that into the soil, and that should reall help.

[karlunity]

The Hippy said to remind you to get "organic" seeds.

 

karl

[FC]

Thanks for the information on fertilizer needing to be specified for gardening. I've heard a couple times that I need to put down lime, but lime isn't for cherry trees, tomatoes, or other acid-loving plants. I did find some sulphur-containing fertilizer, but pure sulphur is kind of hard to find, and not cheap. Isn't ash alkaline? I do have that from burning lots of brush. I did put lime on stuff I know that like it, such as peaches and veggies that grew well in Texas.

 

Why are organic seeds different or better than regular old seeds?

 

That's a big garden area. I would hide some rat pellets where the birds don't feed, or put out traps.

 

I find it tough to kill the chickens I've raised, but guess you do what you have to.

[dindvik]

I like how the goverment not including fuel and food in the inflation formula. You need to go to your cooperative extension service and get soil tests info. That will be at local college or county ag office.

[FC]

I did a home chemical test of the sand and it shows 'zip' for pH and nutrients. That's why I bought so much potting soil and turned to container gardening. I can't do containers for the trees though, so that's where the fertilizer, and chicken poop come in. The good news is that except for the cherry trees, all have fruit just starting to bud out. There is a little bit of topsoil in the area of the trees, but didn't test that (might need to). I buried soaker hoses going to all the important trees, which makes it a whole lot easier to water them.

[karlunity]

http://www.soyouwanna.com/organic-seed-7511.html

 

Hello FC.

 

If you hit the above links, they explain it better than I can.

 

Karl..

 

 

If you become a "Vegan" you wont have to zap the chickens.. or you can just name them after people you hate. : )

 

 

PS...Are any of the chickens farting???

 

evil Karl

[FC]

The Plymouth Rock is THE Farting Chicken poster child! No, no farts detected, except from our Yorkie, who is killer.

The picture of Mr. Black Copper Maran shows one mean rooster- he's attacked us several times.

[sonic1]

anyone tried this.....

 

http://www.stoptheride.net/2008/04/planting-potatoes-in-old-tires.html

[FC]

Nope, but I heard that you could keep adding tires on top of tires as the potatoes grow to get a really big yield.