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Military Firearm Restoration Corner

Barrel Torque


ghost95

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I've rebarreled two mausers. In both cases I've had my gunsmith remove the old barrels. On my 338-06 build, I hand tightened the barrel, then got about another 1/4 turn with one of those strap style pipe wrenches. I've shot that rifle hundreds and hundreds of times since. The second rifle is a 24-47 rebarrel to 6.5x55. I hand tightened, and got about another 1/4 turn with a POS action wrench I built. Same thing, shot hundreds of times, no problems. My gunsmith claims they only need to be hand tightened. As long as they don't unscrew when you shoot them!! Obviously, you need to finish ream after barrel is installed. I'm sure there are some kind of specs. I doubt they used a "torque action wrench" when your rifle was built. Make sure you lube the threads, I use wheel bearing grease.

 

Good Luck

 

KC

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  • 1 month later...

Can anyone give me any info on what type of torque I should apply when instaling a barrel on a VZ-24? Thanks for your advice.

 

 

I have measured the accuracy of 98 Mausers with 10 foot pounds of barrel tightening torque, and with hundreds of foot pounds of torque. They shoot the same.

 

Most people put barrels in rifle receivers with 50 to 100 foot pounds of torque, thinking that is enough so they will not shoot loose.

 

The VZ24 receiver has an inner C ring that acts like a lock washer. That puts the threads in compression. The Rem700 rests on the shoulder, and has the barrel threads in tension. Remington put glue on those threads, and that means they must have had some come lose.

 

It took me 540 foot pounds to get this barrel off, and 200 foot pounds to get it back to the marks in my Mosin Nagant videoL

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Starting with A hand tight barrel, you will need an action wrench, and barrel vice after a meager amount of shots fired to remove. So they self tighten, i don't put a lot of torque on them when installing them, maybe 45-50 ft. lbs. of torque, but that is a guess as I don't have a way to measure it with my action wrench.

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Starting with A hand tight barrel, you will need an action wrench, and barrel vice after a meager amount of shots fired to remove. So they self tighten, i don't put a lot of torque on them when installing them, maybe 45-50 ft. lbs. of torque, but that is a guess as I don't have a way to measure it with my action wrench.

ive never measured the torque, but my barrels get tightened with a few heavy blows on the action wrench using a 2lb rubber mallet. i was taught that they need .002 crush fit.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Just for the record, Kuhnhausen recommends for the index mark method (at p.188) hand tighten and then torque .125" past that. For torque wrench (at p.189) 65-75 ft/lbs.

 

Not for the record, seems to me I heard somewhere .002-.004" crush.

 

This is for 98 type Mausers, not the others.

 

Have no idea how you would "torque wrench" a barrel or measure crush. Seems like index mark method is the only thing available to the mortal man.

 

Brad

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Have no idea how you would "torque wrench" a barrel or measure crush.

Brad

 

I measure from the receiver ring to primary(inner) torque shoulder then add .003 to the barrel shank. Then tighten the barrel until the shoulder at the foreward end of the threads contacts the receiver ring.

The force required to do this seems to vary from rifle to rifle.

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When in Gunsmithing school, mind you this is on a 98 Mauser, the .002 crush is built into the barrel shank length, so that when the breach of the barrel is tight against the internal breaching ring their is a .002 crush because you cut that length .002 short on your barrel shank. I do not like doing that, so I don't, but I still tighten them on tight.

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I'm not quite sure on that, maybe it has been misunderstood or misinterpreted, all i know is the instructor for that class was from England and did his apprenticeship at Holland & Holland. The breach end of the barrel should touch the inner breaching ring when tight, and the .002 crush is on the shoulder. Otherwise you would be forcing the inner breaching ring rearward which wouldn't be a good thing.

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  • 2 months later...

Kuhnhausen is like George Lucas.

 

Star Wars 1977 was great. But Star Wars 1999 was not even up to TV standards.

 

"The Colt Double Action Revolvers: A Shop Manual" 1990 , is THE book on the topic. But "The Mauser M91 through M98 Bolt Actions. A Shop Manual" 1990 is the worst lack of editing I have ever seen.

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Most all milsurp barrels I have pulled had full contact on the inner C ring, and little to no contact with the receiver ring.

On most 98 milsurps the flange/shoulder on the barrel is the same diameter as the threaded portion, it's just not threaded.

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Kuhnhausen is like George Lucas.

 

Star Wars 1977 was great. But Star Wars 1999 was not even up to TV standards.

 

"The Colt Double Action Revolvers: A Shop Manual" 1990 , is THE book on the topic. But "The Mauser M91 through M98 Bolt Actions. A Shop Manual" 1990 is the worst lack of editing I have ever seen.

 

I actually find the Kuhnhausen book to be very useful -- certainly the best book on the subject available.

 

Clemson

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There is no way seat this against the forward receiver ring, it must be torqued against the inner (primary) c ring.

post-200-132338129767_thumb.jpg

One exception would be some of the Turkish Mausers that have a reduced thread size.

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