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Military Firearm Restoration Corner

Well Is Sure Ain't Perfect


CurtInAtl

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If not, you learn by your mistakes. LOL

 

That's why I am not working on anything that I couldn't bring myself to toss in the scrap box.

 

Thanks for the encouragement.

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Iron sights!!

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My first attempt at drilling and tapping will be on the barrel which I am probably going to change anyway. The Remington sights look and fit like they were made for this rifle.

 

One thing I didn't think about until now is that my scope rings are not see through for the Irons. I can't seem to find any see through rings that will work with the Redfield type 1 piece mount. I am going to make sure of which way I am going to go before I drill the receiver.

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Why would you want see through rings? It really puts the scope way too high. Having iron sights on a rifle WITH a scope is like wearing suspenders with a belt: a mark of insecurity! Heh.

 

My view on dual sighting setups (scopes with irons) is that the irons are there in the event the scope fails. In that event, the scope would best be removed.

 

You can always use quick-detach Weaver rings on a one-piece weaver base. such a setup should maintain zero fairly well.

 

I'd not worry about the irons and invest my time and money in a quality scope that won't fail.

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They make or you can easily make a punch to spot the holes. It fits tight in the holes and allows to to accurately center punch the holes. Glue the sights and base on with super glue and center punch the holes. That and careful drilling you will be good to go. Or if you have access to a lathe you can make a tiny guide bushing to put inside the base holes for your #31 drill. Then you can glue on the bases and drill away. BTW you can solder those remmie sights on just fine if you don't want to drill the blind holes.

Don

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I have a punch around here somewhere that will work. It's one that my Grandfather made for my dad before I was born. My Grandfather was a tool maker by trade and after he passed away when I was only 8 or 10 I remember seeing his chest in our basement. It was full of tooling and micrometers and a lot of stuff I wish I had now.

 

I hadn't thought about soldering the sights on but that might be the best way for me to go since re soldering is a lot easier than trying to move a hole that ends up in the wrong place.

 

I have been looking at Steve Wagner's method of drilling for a scope mount and it seems like it's worth a try.

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I have the hole that was used to index the original rear sight base. If I thread it and mount the rear sight base then level the barrel using the flat on the rear sight I should be able to level the front sight to line it up on the rear sight. Theoretically!

 

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Yea, I know, I need to finish polishing the barrel.

 

I finally figured out how to attach pics to to my post without using picturetrail.

 

I was considering putting a cap on the end of the fore arm but making the stock longer with a barrel that's only 16.5" long would probably make the rifle look out of proportion.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Iron sights!!!!!

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Mounting the sights wasn't as hard as I thought it would be. It just took time to setup for each hole. I used my new drill press along with a drill press vice and several levels and strait edges. I have a couple of 5/16" carriage bolts with large washers and wingnuts to fasten the vice to the drill press table. The first thing I discovered was that the index hole for the original rear sight base was not centered on the top of the barrel. I also noticed that the Oviedo crest is also not centered.

 

Now I can test fire and find out if the barrel is worth the work I have put into it. I'll mount the scope when the bolt comes back from being bent. In the mean time I have another bolt to use while testing.

 

Next will be the recoil pad but that will have to wait until the 1/4" spacer arrives since I want to grind the pad and the spacer together. I am planning to grind the pad on the stock with a belt sander. The stock is not finished so I will be able to fix up any dings from shaping the pad.

 

I also picked up a set of 1/8" stamps to mark the barrel 7x57 and some JB weld to fill in the remaining pits before I apply the duracoat. I still haven't decided on a color. There is only about 100 to choose from.

 

It's amazing what a difference adding the sights made, it actually looks like a rifle now. A buddy over at FedEx let me weigh it on their scale and it looks like it is going to end up at around 7.5 pounds.

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You seem to be progressing nicely. I have used Steve Wagner's method for drilling scope mounts on all my conversions, and I've had no issues because I take my time and check and recheck before touching drill to metal.

I sand blast and parkerize my Mauser's metal prior to the Duracoat, and I have only used the stainless and flat black coatings at this point, but have some Gun Blue to try in the future. Very light coatings with an airbrush on super clean metal that I hang in the sun to warm, will give you a tight, no drip coating, that is quite resistant to scratches and dings.

The stainless contrasts nicely with the black synthetic stock but may be too bright in some hunting situations.

Here's my Turk K.Kale fitted with an 8mm Swede barrel in stainless Duracoat. I've since fitted it with a small 4X Tasco and lower ring set.

 

 

 

Spiris

 

 

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post-237-133208259418_thumb.jpg

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Nice rifle!!

 

I still haven't picked a color and those tiny swatches on their web site are just about useless.

 

You sound like my old high school shop teacher, he used to drill into our heads: Think three times, measure twice, and cut once.

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What kind of stock do you have on you Turk?

 

Sorry for not getting back on your question. That was a Corelite stock, which was, I believe, bought out by the Fajen stock company of late, and they sell a version of it at MidwayUSA and other places. It's a bit thick in the wrist, but quite functional.

 

 

Spiris

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  • 1 month later...

Just an update on my project.

 

I am still waiting for my bolt to come back. Jim does great work at a very reasonable rate but it is a side job for him and it can take 2-3 month to get your bolt back.

I have put the first coat of JB weld on the receiver and most of the pits along with the receiver crest are no longer visible. There are a couple of spots that will probably take another coat and I still need to mill out for the bolt handle when it returns.

 

I am having additional surgery on my right shoulder the 24th so pretty much everything will be on hold for several months. I have also been informed by my orthopedic surgeon that I will be on a 40 pound lift limit for pretty much the rest of my life. I guess those 60 pound packs are out and I am going to have to stick to 4 wheeler backpacking from now on.

 

I am still waiting for my Grandson to pick out a color for the duracoat. I probably should have narrowed it down to just a few colors. It is hard to really tell anything from those tiny swatches but knowing him the brighter the better.

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