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Military Firearm Restoration Corner

Mannlicher Style Bolt Handle


mr fixit

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I've been accumulating pieces and parts for a while, now I'm down to work. I have a Yugo 24/47 I am fixing up for the youngest son. The plan is to have a full stock, light weight rifle in 6.5 Swede. There are a lot more details to it, but that's the overall to get to my questions.

 

To go with the style of the rifle, I want a butter knife style bolt handle. I couldn't find one to buy like I wanted, so I made my own. I have it shaped, cut, partially polished, and ready to weld on. But before I do, I want to make sure I don't have a problem.

 

I used round stock to make the handle, I believe it to be hot rolled. Will that cause any issues at all? After it is attached, I will send receiver and bolt out to be hardened, then I plan on rust bluing the barrel, receiver and bolt.

 

So, my questions are; Will mild steel (hot or cold rolled) make any difference on heat treating/hardening, or bluing?

 

And a second question, do I 'need' the 3% nickle rod to weld the bolt handle on? I'm using a Tig machine. Would welding wire like ER70 work? I ask that because that is what I have on hand. I don't mind buying the nickle rods if I need them, but I just need to know if they are really necessary.

 

Thanks in advance, and ask me anything if I need to clarify.

 

Mr Fixit

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The rod you use to tig & the steel for the handle will effect the bolt if you plan to blue it. Are you planning on bluing the handle? Might I suggest a high sheen polish & jeweling? Then the steel & weld won't matter. Unless you're planning on a deep matte rust bluing, I've found bolt handles don't wear well when blued.

 

Also, why are you heat treating the bolt and receiver? Yugo m24s were some of the finest machined & finished mausers ever made.

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The rod you use to tig & the steel for the handle will effect the bolt if you plan to blue it. Are you planning on bluing the handle? Might I suggest a high sheen polish & jeweling? Then the steel & weld won't matter. Unless you're planning on a deep matte rust bluing, I've found bolt handles don't wear well when blued.

 

Also, why are you heat treating the bolt and receiver? Yugo m24s were some of the finest machined & finished mausers ever made.

 

I do plan on rust bluing.

 

The reason for heat treating is just to be sure. I cleaned up the reciever ring, removing the crest. Of course I also lapped the bolt/reciever lugs. May or may not have taken enough of in either process to make a difference, but if I have it treated I can be sure. Also, since I am welding the new bolt handle on, I don't have any worries of losing treatment on the lugs after welding since it will all be re heat treated.

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I would not use a nickle containing rod to weld the handle then. I don't think that will blue well.

 

Lots of people weld handles on the bolts without having them heat treated and I haven't heard of any problems. There are precautions to take, of course. But, it's your project, so go for it.

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I do plan on rust bluing.

 

The reason for heat treating is just to be sure. I cleaned up the reciever ring, removing the crest. Of course I also lapped the bolt/reciever lugs. May or may not have taken enough of in either process to make a difference, but if I have it treated I can be sure. Also, since I am welding the new bolt handle on, I don't have any worries of losing treatment on the lugs after welding since it will all be re heat treated.

 

Yeah, I think at best you're wasting your money on the heat treating & at worst you can make the action brittle. Why not just do a simple hardness test?

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I would not use a nickle containing rod to weld the handle then. I don't think that will blue well.

 

Lots of people weld handles on the bolts without having them heat treated and I haven't heard of any problems. There are precautions to take, of course. But, it's your project, so go for it.

 

Brownells 3.5% nickel is desirable for is ability to be blued. I've been told that stainless rod works well but wont take blue. http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/cid=0/k=welding+rod/t=P/ksubmit=y/Products/All/search=welding_rod

 

Jerry Kuhnhausen recomends re-heatreating particuarly if you lapp the very thin hardend surface of the receiver recoil lugs.

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Yeah, I think at best you're wasting your money on the heat treating & at worst you can make the action brittle. Why not just do a simple hardness test?

 

I don't think it will make the action brittle. It may not be necessary, but I think at the worst it will be an even treatment an all surfaces which shouldn't be a bad thing at all.

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