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farmall

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About farmall

  • Birthday 02/23/1970

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    South Western Pennsylvania
  • Interests
    Spending time with my 2 boys (10 and 7) and my wife, coaching youth sports, tinkering with firearms, mechanical engineering, carpentry.

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  1. Another link. Check the reviews... http://www.mini-lathe.com/
  2. Anybody ever use a "Weatherby factory second" from Cali'Co hardwoods? I'm guessing they would have enough meat to slim down to a nice classic shape (vs. the typical Weatherby exaggerated form). Seems real reasonable price-wise...
  3. Hello. My name's Paul, and I'm a sporterizerhaulic. I haven't sporterized for 2 weeks (due to getting the house ready -paint, honey-do, yes dear - for sister-in-law's baby shower at our house...). I was raised 1 mile from my (paternal) grandfather's farm (Uniontown, PA) and spent every waking hour out there until college (mechanical engineer). Got married, 2 boys (4 & 7), work as a project engineer an hour and a half from home (still Uniontown), I use most of my non-working time spending time with my family. In addition to family and work I do some carpentry and landscaping on the side (though "the side" time has been getting steadily replaced by drive time back and forth from work, youth basketball and soccer and family time). I get a few minutes here and there to play with my toys (usually after the family's asleep), but I'm mostly collecting for the free time that I'm going to have eventually (please don't burst my bubble by telling me it ain't going to happen...). I've heard over and over to cherish the time you have with your kids, so that's what I'm doing (or trying, anyway). Fun with guns can wait, although I really want to get one for each kid finished by the time they're 12. At the rate I'm progressing, I may only be a few months late for the oldest...
  4. claytonfaulkner, Get a degree. Take a look at your current interests. Do some research (the internet's full of info) about jobs/fields that are similar to your interests. Then go find some folks that are working and ask questions. You'll find many willing to give you the scoop about what they do and you'll find no end to the advice. Your goal should be to find the job you'd like to do (forever) and the degree that'll get you there. Once that's done, do more research. Find a school that's right for you. Work through your guidance office (no matter how bad they are) to arrange some college visits. And while you’re there, talk to the students (even if its after the “official visit” [a.k.a. fluff] is over)… They’ll give you the real story. I think you’ll find that no matter how good or bad you do/did in high school, a good attitude and drive to get a degree will hold a lot of weight with college admissions folks. Also, being a junior, buckle down and finish strong your senior year (a strong finish also holds a lot of weight with admissions folks). High school sucks if you let yourself think so. Make the choice to conquer it. Use what you have left to show what you’re made of. You sound mechanically inclined. Take a look at mechanical engineering (4 yr) or mechanical engineering technology (sometimes 2 yr) degrees. I can tell you from experience, if you go into mechanical engineering and have worked on your car, farm equipment, or guns, you’ll be well ahead of 75% of the kids in there with you (and I’m probably being extremely conservative). Also, often the kids with the best grades are absolutely the worse engineers in the “real world” (not always, but surprisingly often). The object is to learn as much as you can, pass and get the degree. Jerry gave some sage advice - That 4 years will pay you back many times for 60 years. I can tell you for sure that often times a college degree is the price of admission to a job. I can also tell you that I’ve seen job applications get tossed ONLY because there was no degree. Better AND more qualified applicants were not even CONSIDERED due to the lack of a sheepskin. Also, no matter how hard folks try (and get in trouble for doing it) the situation won’t change. Now, I gotta get outta trouble and get back to work… Get a degree.
  5. A few things about investment casting... The material is important. Some materials cast better than others. Some materials are modified to cast better (slightly different alloy) which can lead to lower strength parts... All things being equal (a 4140 forging vs. a 4140 investment casting), the investment casting material strength will be around 95-97% of the forging (rule of thumb from the lips of an investment caster). Also, good investment cast parts start with designs optimized for the process. Ruger came along when there were many more manufacturing processes available than in Mauser's day. Ruger simply took good designs and optimized them for the least expensive manufacturing process that would yield acceptable results. Given another fifty or sixty years of life, Paul Mauser would've done the same.
  6. Van's is a black oxiding solution. It will not deter corrosion. I had a mild steel bar that I sanded a bit and then coated half with Van's. Nice dark gray color. Then I put the bar outside my back door and checked it over the next week. Both sides rusted. One of these days (when I think of it, can find the stuff and have a few minutes) I'm going to strip the bar, polish it and apply Van's and the cold blues I have and conduct the experiment again. I may even try a "2 coat" of vans followed by a cold blue... Farmall
  7. Well fellas, I appreciate all of the input. I'm also attaching the (edited) emails between a good friend/toolmaker and me. Farmall: Can it be done so that the "do it yourselfer" can do it (someone without a bunch of expensive equipment)? Hands (Toolmaker): No! It can't be done simply. If you think of it as a press fit situation you'll realize that a .014 press fit on that small of a dia. would require you to put the "cutter" in liquid nitrogen and heat the barrel to get it started. Then when the temperature equalizes part way down to bore you'd wind up with one piece of steel. The only thing that I think might work would be your idea but instead of a cutter use progressive lapping. Also, if you want to try it...buy more life insurance. Farmall's reply question: What if you had 14 cutters taking .001 at a time? You think they'd follow the existing rifling (and then the newer rifling for cutters 2 through 14)? Hands (Toolmaker): ..just get satisfied with the 8mm bullets available or re-barrel... After you go through all this work the accuracy would be so bad I'd stand in front of the target with out any fear... To sum up...like most things, it looks good on paper, but actually doing it would be pretty tough. Rebel49, Jimro, Z1R and Hands have made the main points clear: chip load problems, tool material issues, tracking the old rifling issues, lousy surface finish, cheaper & better to get a new barrel (unless you just happen to have the very expensive and specialized equipment at your disposal). So...I'm gonna move on to one of the many other idle thoughts that are swimming around in my head. Thanks. Farmall
  8. Morgansboss, Yep, you caught my thinking... DobleTroble, You caught it too. I was thinking about a disk of carbide that had the new rifling (grooves) cut on a wire EDM (or ground). It would also have a keyed hole (square hole?) for a pilot/mandrel. The pilot/mandrel would be a piece of material softer than the barrel (but tough) that would lock into the carbide and spin with the existing rifling. You could probably pull it through with a come-a-long and a thin piece of cable... Better yet - use one of those soft cable crimp things as a means to fasten the button to the cable AND impart the spin (squish into the existing rifling)... Hmmm...I probably need more stuff to do at work...
  9. Deep thinking or silly-ness...you decide. Surplus barrels are readily available and you can only have so many 8mm's (theoretically). Why couldn't a broach or button be made that would re-rifle an 8mm to something bigger (.338 for instance)? The existing rifling could be used to impart the twist. You'd only have to shave off .015" to go to .338. Maybe deepen the grooves first and then use them as a guide to rebore the lands...vs. the "regular" barrel making method of boring first, then rifling. I'm thinking about something that you could do at home...cheap. Cheaper than a than a barrel vice and action wrench? Cheaper than a new barrel? Hmmm....
  10. Grandpap had a few Farmalls (though his favorite tractor was his Allis-Chalmers WD-45 wide front)... The first tractor I was on (as an infant) was a Farmall (460)... The first anything that I drove was a Farmall (230 front with Super-C rear and cowling)... Great combination of power and weight dominated the fairs' dead weight tractor pulls and quite a few of the transfer sled pulls (the green, orange and especially blue tractors needed lots of extra weight to pull in the right class or were WAY over-powered for the lighter class that the stock machine could make). Shame how time and life leads you away from some of the things that you love...haven't played with tractors in years...but played with my boys last night... Anyway, that's why my handle's farmall...
  11. Thanks Swamp Thing & Fritz. Looks like it may be "over-rotating" a bit (wiggled the crap out of the "locked" bolt and the safety now has a shiny surface where it shouldn't). A touch with the file and it should work as designed. Thanks again. Farmall
  12. Supposed to be a fairly easy installation and seemed to be... I ground the little slot in the shroud a bit at a time until the cocking piece would pass. Put the bolt back together...Put the bolt into the action to test function. Flipped the safety off and on. Cocking piece went forward and back. So far so good. Flipped the safety off and dry fired. Now for the problem...After "firing", I couldn't open the bolt. I ended up having to manually recock (pull back the cocking piece) in order to open the bolt so I could remove it. I did retry the safety while the bolt was cocked and it worked as before. But...I really don't want a single shot... I didn't have a whole lot of time (between "honey do" jobs) to try to figure out what's going on but figured someone else has experienced this problem and could point me in the right direction quickly... Thanks in advance. Farmall
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