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Jeff H

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  1. Citric acid is also easy to obtain and reasonably cheap - I got some (powdered) in the canning section at WM the other day because the Bulk Store was out. Just under a half pound for just under $5. That's "expensive" relative to what you can find it for online in larger quantities. Very safe to use AND dispose of. Oddly, everywhere I asked about it, I got fearful "whadd'ya need THAT for?!" replies, so it's not like it would be any better than trying to buy nitric I suppose. Ignorance has few bounds but I am still surprised at times. Just tell them you are canning tomatoes. Here is an excellent (and long) thread about using citric acid to clean cartridge brass. It also speaks of stainless and the effects of citric acid solutions on the same, so there is a lot of useful information here. At least one of the posters is a chemist and others have significant experience. I have used this forum for a long time and there is very little Internet ignorance infused. http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?t=83572&highlight=citric+acid+passivation+brass I have not used it on stainless myself yet.
  2. One of the best things about it is that you never stop learning new stuff - sometimes from an old sage, sometimes from someone who just jumped in and discovered something useful just because ignorance introduces some amount of objectivity. Nice work on the Mauser. It will be a source of much more satisfaction as you continue to use and refine it. Of course, you do realize that you have wandered into a realm from which you will never find your way back out of, don't you?
  3. That's one very fine-looking Mauser. I especially like the wood details where you transition from the girth about the mag well to a more slender features on either end and the proportions are excellent as well. Your bolt jobs sure look nice too.
  4. Those are nice. I have missed a lot of neat things in the past few years.
  5. Wow, Don, that looks fantastic! Redfield peep? I needed a peep for my Rossi 92 lever but couldn't see $80 for an aluminum sight - couldn't "see" meant couldn't "afford." I picked up a new-old Williams FP for a Remington 740/760 from ebay and went to work with the files. I flattened the back of the base and did some sculpting on the underside of the beam to clear the locking lugs and now have a $17 peep on my lever. I saw a lot of them on ebay for obscure actions that sure looked like they would be adaptable to a Mauser. I even saw one that I thought about turning backwards and screwing the aperature in from the other side or turning the aperature carriage around. The floor plate looks VERY nice! Everything does but that was a particularly artful, tasteful touch executed with good judgment. EDIT: That Butler Creek stock even looks great. What kind of paint was that?
  6. It's an Argentine then. I never before noticed any markings on it besides a "4" on the bottom, but I took it out and got it in bright light. It's right where the cartridges have slid across it for years and is now almost indiscernible. I will put up with it until someone in need of one has a Swede to trade. Thanks, Don.
  7. Thanks, Don. It's just been easier to load three than to run to a show and paw through the bins. My last Swede part was a actually follower and I put it in a mutt I sold to a fella who wouldn't be able to fix it himself. If the Argentine has more taper than the Swede, the follower in my rifle may not be original. The base of the first 6.5x55 round lies against the hump but the rest of the case does not. I may make the required adjustment on the one I have and save the gas it takes to get to a show.
  8. That would probably look even better - everything from the front to the rear guard screws would "flow" visually.
  9. If you're talkinig about milling flats on it, I did an original floorplate like that once and it looked nice. The widths of the 3 flats tapered from back to front and I melted the edges where the flats met. Where the catch hole was in the back was its own facet and I did the same on the front but made that one concave and swept it into the tongue my Dad welded on for a hinge. I had to do it all by hand so it took a while. Since I did it by hand, there was an almost imperceptible convex to the flats but I believe that looked better than what perfectly flat facets would have looked like. I looked in the safe to see if I could get a pic but it must have been on one of my Dad's because I don't have it. He does the machine-work and welding, I do the hand-work on the metal and most of the wood-work. We trade skills when building. There was not a lot of meat to work with and the angles were very shallow but it did look very classy. I believe it ended up on a small ring 98 chambered in .25 Souper.
  10. Can't answer on the spring myself because I have not had a probelme with one but I do have a follower that gives me grief. The follower is from a 7.65 Argentine and I am using it in a 6.5x55. Last round won't even go into the mag right because of the way the bump on the follower crowds the rounds. It was the cleanest, nicest follower I had and I have meant to fix it but have just been loading three at a time anyway so I won't worry about it until I know I will get a chance to hunt with it.
  11. I have not been to Midway's site in quite a while but I got several Adams & Bennett barrels for around $70 each about ten years ago. The 6.5x55 shoots beyond what I could ever have inagined - first two three shot groups were all touching. My Dad ended up with the .338-06 I got and his first group was three into an inch. I don't know if they were all like that or what they cost these days but either of those would have been a bargain at twice what I paid. The 7x57 is still in the safe and the .35 Whelen went to a friend who left it a the 'smiths' two years ago and still hasn't seen it. They don't gleam inside like some but the two we have shot were impressive. Nothing wrong with Douglas, Shaw or McGowen either. I just grabbed a bunch of cheap barrels as they went on sale. Nice stock too. I have used several Boyd's laminates but I trimmed a lot of wood off of them first.
  12. Not that this is gospel, and I no longer own a 94 to check, but this (see link) is fairly typical of what I have always heard about the barrel length issue on the 94 Carbine. I noted when I read this again that the legal import length was 18" and the Swedes were just under that - not under 16", but under 18". I find this believable because it was explained to me by either Taurus or Rossi some years ago that their import barrel length limit on handguns was 3". I found it odd that they catered to my favorite "short" barreled revolver length and ask what prompted the 3" in lieu of the more common 2". I was advised that they had, in fact, not gone to 3" to please me specifically, but to meet import restrictions. http://findarticles.com/p/articles/mi_m0BQY/is_4_53/ai_n27161889/?tag=content;col1 Like I said - not necessarily gospel, as he may be repeating the same stuff I have heard for many years but a quick measure of an original will tell if there is enough barrel to lop a bit off to get to a nice crown. I wouldn't bet the crown is damaged at all anyway as the extension provided a fair amount of protection from nicks and dings, while it may not protect it from cleaning rod wear. So, what's the status of this project? Anything to take pictures of yet?
  13. I know mine was an add-on as the seam was apparent and the extension was unblued but had a patina that made it not so garish as bare metal. Looking into the end of it, it gave the appearance of having been counterbored because the bore of the extension was ocnsiderably larger than the actual rifle bore.
  14. Not a chance I would be willing to take with the BATF myself. Being a 94, one could possibly trade it for a couple M38s in decent shape. When I bought my 94 it was $300 and the M38s were going for less than $150. I trimmed an M38 back to 20", added a Boyd's walnut stock which I took a lot of wood off of and D/T'd a TC Contender base to the last barrel step and it was a gem handling and shooting.
  15. I did this on a Swedish M38 and it worked marvelously. I was quite tickled with my cheap setup that was low and uncomplicated.
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