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Military Firearm Restoration Corner

Cocking piece peep sight


MorgansBoss

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I’ve always liked the cocking piece peep sights on some custom rifles, particularly Rigby magazine rifles. These are (usually) permanently silver soldered to the cocking piece and usually have a spring devise that holds them in place (up or down). Following are directions for such a sight made from common items that can be put on (or taken off) any Mauser-style rifle bolt with a protruding cocking piece. The sight is held in place by both the clamping action of the base AND a set screw that works best if a small “flat” is ground on the side of the cocking piece. Very slight windage adjustment can be made by tilting the sight from side to side but too much of this will be unsightly. The sight is elevation adjustable by means of screwing the “peep” up or down and locking in place with the locknut. The sight is held in the “up” or “down” position by means of another lock nut working against flats on the top and back of the base.

Starting with a piece of ¼” thick stock 1”x 1 ½” square drill a ½” hole in the center of the stock. Cut a slot just under 3/16” from the top to the hole making sure it’s perfectly centered on the hole. This will be the base or clamp, which attaches to the cocking piece and holds the actual sight parts.

Rough out the outside of the base, particularly cutting the “ears“ that will be the top of the base. These should be about 3/16” or equal the width of the cut between them. I use a ½” end mill to contour the radius from the sides to the ears but the ears can be cut out with a hack saw and the radius done with a round file.

Clamp the base in the drill press with the right side up and drill the ears for a 6-32 tap. Also drill for a 6-32 in the middle of the ½” hole - this will be for your set screw. Drill for this screw as far forward as possible to give the best purchase on the cocking piece. Now drill the RIGHT EAR ONLY approximately 1/8”. This may vary, keep it as small as possible while giving room for the screw to function. Tap the two holes to 6-32 - left ear and right-side set screw.

Chuck a 5/16 x 1” bolt in the lathe and center-drill for a 10-32 tap. The hole must be at least ½” beyond the bottom of the head. Tap the hole in the bolt (10-32) then cut the bolt head square being sure to leave it over-size (more than 3/16”). Run the flat sides up at least three threads on two opposing sides but leave the threads on the other two sides. This facilitates the locking nut. Using judicious file strokes, fit the square shank of the 5/16” bolt to the notch in the base. Don’t worry about the end or the front and back at this point, just fit the sides to the notch. Once the bolt just fit’s the notch, clamp it back into the drill press vise with the bolt in the base and drill the bolt shank using the base as a guide.

Next using a 10-32 machine screw (the longer the better) silver solder an 8-32 nut to the head. If using a slotted screw the slot can be enlarged to hold the nut in place while soldering, otherwise it can be a bit tricky holding the nut in place while heating/fluxing/applying solder, etc…

From here on out its basically shaping and fitting to make everything look and fit properly. I like to leave everything oversize as long as possible to facilitate holding in the vise. Knurled lock nuts look better but if you can’t buy or make them, regular hex nuts will work as well, although they may need to be filed thinner. The ½” hole will need to be enlarged considerably to fit a M98 cocking piece but will be just about right for a M93. If you have access to larger bits or end mills this will make the job much easier or it can even be chucked in the four-jaw and precisely bored on the lathe. I file the 8-32 nut that makes-up the “peep” to a round contour but you may like the hex look. The base/clamp should be ground and filed to approximately 1/8” thick to retain strength will providing a bit of “spring“. I’ve probably left something out but this should get you started. I’ve only made two of these sights so far so the idea is still somewhat in flux, so don’t be afraid to modify yours as you see fit!

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Kenny,

 

I've been up to my ears in raising a 1 YO. I'm finally starting to catch up on tasks. Soon hopefully.

 

Be carefull with that sight in the lowered position. Many have taken one to the eye when cycling the bolt. The old Lyman no. 1 was bad about that.

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Looks simple enough to build.

 

 

Yikes!! I'm certainly envious of your skills Morgan and Kenny saying it looks simple, sure wish I had the patience you guys have. Your description seems pretty thorough but actually sitting down and doing it is out of my league. Patience with small parts is just not in my personality. My poor eyesight doesn't help either. If you should ever decide to build any for a fair price I would certainly like to consider it for one of my future projects. Z you ain't seen nothing yet, wait till they turn into teenagers!!

 

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Guest Guest_MorgansBoss_*

"Be carefull with that sight in the lowered position. Many have taken one to the eye when cycling the bolt. "

 

Ouch! I'll try to keep that in mind, although I've never been able to master working the bolt without taking the butt from my shoulder. Maybe because of my long arms.

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I've never been able to master working the bolt without taking the butt from my shoulder.

 

I'm the same way and feel kind of clumsy in the prone position. I've seen a few shooters though that can do it without any difficulty. If you ever watch the History Channel, there is a close-up scene with a WW2 Marine shooting an 03 that appears often as war footage in alot of different programs. He rips off two shots and his right arm works as smooth as the operating rod on an M-1. The rifle stays put and it appears as though he is taking aim as his hand works the bolt. I've seen some shooters that can't seem to operate the bolt unless they drop it to waist level and look at it.

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Thanks for the drawing and instructions MB,I gotta try to make me one.I have no worry about getting hit in the eye.Being left handed,I have to drop the rifle a little to shift gears and have a tendency to lay it over on it's left side slightly,usually screwing up the ejection of the just shot brass.Usually I'll do that once and am allright for the season.Wouldn't that suck in Africa after making a bad shot on a lion or cape buffalo?Jerry

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The levergun is the only one, well, semi auto too, that I can operate from the shoulder. Like you, I have a bad tendency to unshoulder the rifle when working the bolt. Nice Job!

 

Got a 1 YO and 4 YO. The second of course is the kind that never lets me get any sleep. I've been a grouch for the last year, lol.

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