Jump to content
Military Firearm Restoration Corner

Scope Mounting Problem


tomme boy

Recommended Posts

I have a problem with a mauser that I had built for me by a barrel manufacturer. When I mounted the scope, I thought it looked like it was not straight with the bore. So I took it out to break in the barrel and get the scope dialed in. The scope ran out of adjustment and the gun was still shooting about 4 ft to the right. I have the Burris rings that you can change the inserts to adjust the POI. I put in the 20MOA set in the rear ring and it is still shooting about 2ft to the right.

 

Anyone else have any idea what else can be done. I also noticed that the rear base has a gap on the left side where it sould be sitting flat to the rec. I think they drilled it off center. I don't want the holes welded up and redrilled or have custom mounts made. I have a call in to them right now, but have not heard anything back. Anyone have any ideas?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

II think they drilled it off center. I don't want the holes welded up and redrilled or have custom mounts made. I have a call in to them right now, but have not heard anything back. Anyone have any ideas?

 

If they are drilled off center which sounds highly probable, you don't leave any options but one which may or may not work. That is to mill new holes, then drill & tap for 8x40 screws. this will only work if the holes aren't too far out of whack.

 

The other option as to the cause of your dilema could be that the receiver threads are not in line with the bolt bore. That would cause the parrel to point off in one direction or another.

 

Are you using the DT rings? If so, are they aligned? Does the rear have some windage that you can use and still be aligned?

 

And finally, the last possibility that comes to mind at the moment is that the holes could be propely drilled but the rear bridge is uneven. this will cause the base to cant. If that is the case, you can ship one side to align things.

 

Me, I'd call em and see what they say.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It may well but I'd personaly locate the real issue at hand. I'd not waste another minute or $$ on it without first calling the folks that D&T'd the rifle.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I had one that I drilled off a tad and the signature rings couldn't make up the difference. I made up for the error with Millet rings. They have windage adjustment and were able to straighten things out and now it shoots fine.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Burris also has signature rings that have windage. That doesn't really solve the original issue though.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I avoid the Weaver-styled rings/bases because of this very issue. With a Redfield setup, things would have to be REALLY bad to not be able to adjust for windage. My one rifle with a Weaver base, a Mini-Mark-X, came with the base; I bought a pair of standard Burris Zee rings, crossed my fingers, and was within an inch on windage at 100 yds. Pure luck (or stringent Zavasta Quality Control :D ).

 

You still need to investigate the issue and figure what's going on, but using Millet ajustable Weaver rings or switching to a Redfield setup should cure the evil spell.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm with odies dad on using Millet Rings to solve the problem, but I also believe the gunsmith owes you big time. I have a friend who had M95 held up 6 months by the gunsmith for a simple D&T and bolt bend. When he finally went to get it, it was a mess. The gunsmith gave him his M95 back PLUS a VZ24, and didn't charge him a dime. He patched the 95 and still hunted with it. I informed him that I have jig and blocks, he has torch, so we plan to do the VZ24 together for next year.

 

Sometimes it's best to get the jig and bending blocks and do the job yourself, unless you're all thumbs.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If they truly are out of line, have a pro redrill them. It won't cost that much and the you'll be happier with the results.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

This is a big part of the attraction of "doing it yourself" for me. I use to pay to have things done, and (maybe I'm an unlucky ahole) it seemed like about half the time there'd be a problem (and the other half of the time I'd wait 6 mos and nothing would have been done at all). When I moved here (to E. Carolina) it turns-out that the closest "gunsmith" that will do anything requiring a lathe is two hours away in Raleigh. Its either do it yourself or it ain't gettin' done out here. Maybe that's a good thing. It certainly has been educational, and usually fun - at least in the end.

 

If you're going to do any more Mausers it might be at least worth considering getting one of the Wheeler jigs, I don't think they're even $30, and if you pay attention (and use lots of cutting fluid and go slow) they work every time, even with a hand drill.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

OK, I forgot that I had a set of the millet rings in vast orginized mess. I put them on and I had to go all the way to one side with one and all the way to the other side with the other to straighten it out. I also had to put a total of .1125" shim under the front base to even the rings out. I just got back from the range and it worked.

 

As I was at the range, Chris from ER Shaw called and said to send it back. He said that there was no way that it could have been drilled off of center because they do it on a jig. I know that is wrong. I have a jig for D&T and I have drilled a couple out of center. That was why I wanted them to do this one. That and I just did not want to do this one.

 

Anyway, It is a Turk K hale chambered in 8X57 in a 3 1/2 con. I put it in a Fajen walking varmiter stock. Which I have to say is not the best stock. The inletting is scary. Huge gaps and took a lot of epoxy to get everything level.

 

Anyway, I don't know if I should send it back to them or not. They have had this since the second week of DEC. and I just got it back Tues. of last week. I have a feeling they will end up having it for a least another month. Chris said they would stop working on the other work they have to check mine out and fix it. But who knows how long that will take. There is 2 weeks of just shipping it back and forth.

 

Thanks guys.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If they offer to fix it I 'd at least let em look at it. That way you'll theoretically know what the deal is.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Tommee,

 

I imagine the that happened to you happened to my Turk 30-06. The 'smith who D/T'd the action overlooked the fact that some Turks have a wider bolt guide rail than other Mausers and may skew the alignment. Mine was probably off by .099-.100 at the rear most hole it was so far out of alignment. The simple solution was to have my local gunsmith redrill the rear mount for two new, properly lined up holes and fill the originals with screw blanks. Frankly I am the only person who knows these are there and it effect nothing. Just a minor inconvenience.

 

If they want to fix it, good on them. This was most likely an honest mistake and I hope they fix it properly this time.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Er Shaw is a reputable company, and is aware that word of mouth on a site like this can cost their reputation and subsequent business dearly. I'm sure they will make every effort to rectify the situation to your satisfaction.

 

Spiris

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I did a little studying of the rec. last night. The holes for the scope are actually straight. But, when the rec. was originally drilled for the barrel, it was drilled at an angle. Not straight to the center of the boltway. The fix with the Millet rings brought the scope in so I could adjust it out. The gun shoot really good. When they lapped the lugs and sqaured the bolt, it must be square with the bore. I have no signs that the case is at an angle in the bore. So i guess I will leave it as is. Like Rosco said, I am the only one who will know. That and everyone on this board. Thanks guys.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You cannot for all intents and purposes alter the bolt bore to be straight in relation to a barrel that is at an angle relative to the bolt bore. Lapping the lugs will not fix this relationship.

 

The current crop of Remington 700's suufer from this affliction and that is why truing the action is such a part of the gun vocabulary these days. In that case, the action is placed in a jig on a lathe and dialed in. then, the threads are recut to be parallel or perpendicular depending on how you look at it to the bolt bore.

 

If you got your scope on and it shoots good, then great.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You cannot for all intents and purposes alter the bolt bore to be straight in relation to a barrel that is at an angle relative to the bolt bore. Lapping the lugs will not fix this relationship.

Must agree with z1r.

The analysis of an untrue receiver is strange. I've never seen a Mauser action, even a K. Kale that was not true to the barrel. Even at that, E.R. Shaw should have caught it and corrected it. I wonder if it is the barrel, not the action that is not true.

 

E.R. Shaw's prices are not cheap. They should have installed the barrel properly, true to the receiver. Regardless that the Millett rings fixed the problem, until the barrel is trued to the action, I question that you will accomplish the accuracy of a blueprinted rifle. That's what you paid for. That's what you should get. I may sound hardnose, but you paid good money for the job. Expect it. I agree that they have a reputation to uphold. Let them redo the job.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

"This is a big part of the attraction of "doing it yourself" for me. I use to pay to have things done, and (maybe I'm an unlucky ahole) it seemed like about half the time there'd be a problem (and the other half of the time I'd wait 6 mos and nothing would have been done at all). When I moved here (to E. Carolina) it turns-out that the closest "gunsmith" that will do anything requiring a lathe is two hours away in Raleigh. Its either do it yourself or it ain't gettin' done out here. Maybe that's a good thing. It certainly has been educational, and usually fun - at least in the end."

 

 

True here also.

 

Add in the cost of the work that the pro will charge you for. You may just become one of the fellows that they keep talking about on another board.

 

But at least you will know that you only have yourself to blame for a screwup. And that won't happen as often as some would like to believe.

 

Been there, done that

 

 

fritz

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The Turks do require modification of at least the Wheeler jig - somehow the ridge on the left side of the receiver directly behind the front ring is thicker and extends further right than other 98s. Its an obvious problem and an easy fix, so I hope Shaw folks aren't butting heads with it - you simply relieve the front post of the jig (by grinding) to accomodate the wider ridge.. This is one of the downsides of a jig - they can lead to a false sense of security, and a cerebral disconnect. Never allow a cerebral disconnect and life is much easier (although you will become more responsible for the outcome).

Link to comment
Share on other sites

This is one of the downsides of a jig - they can lead to a false sense of security

Even a jig requires common sense. ANY tool that does not fit the application properly, needs adjusting. I've tapped a couple of K. Kales and not had the problem others complain about. Must be something I'm doing right, making sure everything is aligning and there is no binding when tightening the bolts.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well I sent it off today. Before I took the action out of the stock, I took off the rings and bases. It must have been an optical ilussion when they were on. The bore is in line with the boltway. The fumes from all of the beans that the old lady fed me must have made my eyes crossed from what I seen before. The rear base is the one that seems messed up. If you loosen them up, then screw it down while watching, you can see it tilt and slide to the right side. It is deffenently tilted and off to the right side. I will see what they say. And thanks for all of the comments guys.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

×
×
  • Create New...