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Military Firearm Restoration Corner

Custom Mauser Bolt Question


8uck5nort

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I have been thinking about getting a stripped down bolt or two and then sending them out to have them cut, bent and swept back for low scope mounting.

 

Question is, is this a waste of time? Is it best practice to use the original bolt that came with an action or rifle? Granted you buy just a reciever you will be shopping for a bolt.

 

I am not sure if all "standard length" bolts will work on all standard length actions. I imagaine there are some differences. Would this open up a pandoras box of "well this worked in my german mauser, but not in the Brazilian action" (granting they are all standard length)

 

Idea behind this would be to have a couple of finished stripped bolts on hand to just put in an action when I need them.

 

I know an incorrectly heated and or/cut handle can be bad. Softens metal, messes up headspace, so I am leary about buying a already modified bolt. Maybe I am just being paranoid.

 

What is a fair price on a bolt job cost anyway? 50.00 - 150.00???

 

Again thanks for the feedback in advance.

 

8uck5nort

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A standard length Mauser bolt should fit in most any standard length Mauser receiver. You will need to address headspace issues when you rebarrel. A standard bolt will not work in an intermediate receiver like a M48. Some of the commercial actions may have some quirks as well.

Sometimes you get lucky and your bolt will headspace correctly on the issue barrel, but don't count on it.

Bolt welding/forging prices vary from $50 or less to way more than the service is really worth. Some cost depends on what you are using for a new handle. Tanglewood and Z1R both do nice work as I am sure do others. Tanglewood has done several for me. Experience in doing bolt handles is valuable. Using the correct heat sinks and heat control paste should prevent softening.

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Other than the headspace issue, are there other fit issues? How about the fit of the working surfaces such as lug raceways, or much more importantly at the bearing surfaces behind the lugs as the bolt is closed (more important)? It seems the original bolt would have worn a working fit through use. It seems a replacement bolt would not result in as smooth an action (all else constant). I wish I had the right technical terminology to more eloquently ask that question.

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The bolt that matches the receiver will usually fit the best. Another bolt can be lapped to fit if neccessary. If you do so, you will probably need to get the receiver re-heat treated, as lapping can cut through the surface of the case hardening. I have never done so on any of mine and have had no issues, but your rifle may not work out as well. If you have the issued bolt for the gun, by all means, use that one. If you are starting with a pile of parts, it doesn't make much difference.

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Bob58,I understand your concern about a bolt not original to the action not being a good match because of wear and different assemblers.If the action is in good condition and you have a good bolt,I don't think it would be any different than Ruger,Winchester,or Savage building rifles out of bins full of bolts.I bet the tolerences are as erratic,or maybe more-so,than at the old Mauser arsenals.I think most gun-cranks headspace as tight as possible to take in to account the wear in your talking about. Jerry

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