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RifleMan

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  1. From my perspective as a relative newbie to building and customizing rifles, and Mausers in particular, I'm most interested in doing things myself. But I don't have the space for every tool needed, nor the money to buy them all at once. For those reasons, I'm practical - although I'm in no rush, I would like to complete the project(s) before I die, and to do that, I've farmed out some work. I'm about to farm out some more, because I recognize my limits, and know I can't do it to the standard I'd like. For my first project, I've done most of the work so far, and will do most of what's left. Whenever I make a suggestion in a post about farming out work, it's because I felt I got a better value having done so, and I give my opinion based on my own experience. If you want tutorials, I've read almost anything I could want to know (almost) already posted on this forum at some time or other. So maybe the reason that new "how-tos" aren't being written has to do with the fact that many of them have already been done?
  2. Thanks lemski4. I may try that. I was already thinking about getting a benchtop blast cabinet. No room for anything bigger at this point, but for a receiver, it should work. Also, I imagine that I could always mask, blast, clean up, mask again, and paint if I wanted the etching to really stand out (the etching would probably be good for some tooth to set up for Duracoat or something similar).
  3. And all three have examples of their work pictured on the forum, all do some fine work. Z1r did two bolt handles for me, and I was extremely satisfied with the results. I couldn't have done half as well as he did, and the other two gentlemen are on the same level, as far as I can tell from the pictures. I'd recommend hiring out the job if you really want a top-notch bolt handle.
  4. That's one idea. Does it go deep enough to allow for filling the lettering/numbering with paint or similar, like some people like to do to make the text stand out? Not saying that's a requirement, but it'd be nice to know it's that deep, and won't just wear off easily. Also, would glass bead be the best media? I would think aluminum oxide would be the best stuff. And what kind of mask material did you use? Would it even stand up to alum. oxide? Thanks for the reply. Nice looking lettering!
  5. Probably a dumb question, and possibly not worth the hassle, but, I'm wondering if anyone has ever put their own crest back onto a scrubbed receiver. I've got a design that I'd like to put onto a receiver that I stoned the crest from. The steel is nice and soft at this point, and I figure I could hand engrave the design, but I'd rather etch it or something more sure, since I'm not so steady with engraving myself. I've seen the electrolyte energized method of etching steel, but that seems like it only goes down 0.01" - less than a 64th of an inch. It also seems like fine lines don't generally work so well with that method. I'd like something that would be deep and fine enough to fill in with pain or crayon to really make the design pop out. Anyone have any good ideas? Should I just try to find a shop that will laser engrave it? Or is there a garage-shop method I'm not finding? Thanks, Nathan
  6. I came across this little gadget, and wondered if anyone's tried it, and if so, how well does it work? http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/...leitemid=662634
  7. Uhh... yeah, that'll do. OF COURSE! Well, anyway, yeah, I've kind of given up on the idea of a detachable mag, and want something that won't come off the rifle when I need to dump rounds. What do you charge for something exactly like that? I have two that I'd like done, but one is a stamped M48 (I think - haven't looked at the parts lately).
  8. Don - Any chance you could do something like that for a Yugo/Intermediate length? I've been lookin' everywhere for a hinged commercial replacement, but no luck.
  9. Just found the thread myself. fritz will be missed.
  10. Thanks for the info guys. I think he wants to keep it original, but I don't have any idea as to the date of manufacture. I think he said he wants to take some caribou with it (he's taking a trip to Alaska next year and is thinking about tags). Anyway, I'll get a chance to see the rifle in a week or two. Never handled one before, so I'm looking forward to it.
  11. A friend of mine recently was given a Savage 99 chambered in .300 Savage. Assuming that he doesn't care about the historic or intrinsic value of keeping the original barrel on it, does anyone know if it's possible to re-barrel for a more easily acquired commercial cartridge? He doesn't reload (but I'm working on him, trying to get him to keep it as a .300 Savage). I just don't know enough about this action to know if it's possible to re-chamber it and still fit rounds in the rotary magazine. Thanks! -Nathan
  12. I'll add my endorsement as well - Mike just sent me back two bolts and they are VERY nicely done. I only wish that I could match the rest of the rifle to his work. Oh well, I'll get there with time and practice.
  13. All good points... and a great article by Dan Lilja. Thanks guys. I'm still interested in learning more specifically about the throat diameter, as I've personally observed a "step" or "lip" just prior to the rifling in some factory barrels, and it seems to me that this is an indication of too loose a throat. Other barrels may have a smaller step, that I couldn't see with my eye, but they appeared to be roughly the same diameter as the groove (and yes, I know that the nominal groove depth is not always the actual depth). Here's another article I ran across - seems interesting, but I don't know if it applies only to TC barrels or any. Seems to me the principle should be applicable to any barrel you're likely to run into. http://www.bellmtcs.com/FAQ/ChamberThroats101.htm
  14. This isn't so much a problem for my slowly-coming-along Yugo Mauser Scout project, but more a question of general interest to me. I respect the experience of you guys here who've been there and done that, and maybe you have the answer(s). It occurred to me that accuracy really starts at the chamber throat, and through some reading I've done, it seems that most factory-new chamber reamers start off about 0.001" larger than the bullet diameter. To me, it seems that this would allow a bit of slop in the throat as the bullet unseats from the cartridge mouth and jumps to the rifling. A freebore this large *could* allow a bit of yaw (is that the right term?) and the bullet could start onto the lands a bit cocked. If the bullet itself has a relatively long cylindrical portion, maybe the problem is automatically corrected (to an extent), but if it's got little then it could well be spat out the muzzle with a wobble that would dramatically affect accuracy at the target (especially for long range or super-precise shots). Anybody got any more to add to this? At this point, I'm not a good enough shot that it's likely to matter, but I think it's an interesting subject, and I wonder if having a reamer ground down a bit tighter might make sense, assuming that the shooter keeps getting better. Thanks, Nathan
  15. Just got my bolts back from Z1R, and boy do they look nice. I didn't want anything really fancy, but these are nicer than even I had hoped. Thanks Z, and I'll try and get some pics posted before the weekend, if anybody's interested. -Nathan
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