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Manitou

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  1. I beleive that "Case Hardening" is very much like sonic1 describes. Modern case hardening is more of a nitriding process, where low carbon steel is placed in a furnace with Nitrogen gas that imparts nitrides to the steel and makes the outside skin harder. This is desireable when you want a hard, wear resistant skin, and a shock and crack resistant under structure. Gears come to mind. I'm not sure about the quenching, although it may be true, I've never heard that. Color Case hardening involves packing the steel parts in bone or leather and heating them. The carbon given off by the bone and leather will infuse the steel and make it hard on the outside. The beautiful colors are just by accident, but they sure are nice. Make sure that the local shop that you choose is well versed in CASE HARDENING. Edited to add that if you use a Carburizing Powder like Casenite, then quenching is recommended.
  2. Are the the Chapman wings hardened? I think that I've only ever installed one Chapman and had to harden the wing. Not hard to do, but an extra step. My first Swing safety was done on a Swede, back in '91. It was purchased from a gentleman in Thibadou, Louisianna, and I'll be darned if I can remember his name. I think he sold out, and then I purchased several from Precise Metalsmithing. They were easy to install and worked well. I put the Chapman on a Twede, and am currently ready to put two Wisner safeties on the 7mm-08 guns that I'm building. donmarkey, do you anneal by heating to a dull red and burying the shroud in sand, or a different method? Manitou
  3. That is truly fine workmanship down to the last detail. Did anyone else notice the way that all of the screw slots were lined up with the long axis of the rifle? That's an old muzzle loader building technique brought over from the German Masters during the 1730's. Yes, a well built rifle. Manitou
  4. Clemson, Thanks for this tutorial. I've rebarreled 5 Swedes (All with surplus, new barrels from Samco), put a surplus Swede barrel on a Turk, and an Adams and Bennett barrel (6.5x55 rethreaded) on a Turk. Now I'm putting two 7mm-08 Rem take-offs on the last of my Turks. I have never had to do the extractor cut, but may in the future if I can get an M48 to work on. Your pictures were clear and instruction were easy to understand. Thanks. Manitou
  5. Don't give up, we all may learn something here. The backlash in the cheap indexing drill press vises, is, unfortunately, very common.
  6. donmarkey speaks the truth. A drill chuck doesn't hold an end mill nearly as solid as a collet, and carbide endmills used this way never last long, they break. (I know that you never mentioned carbide, I'm just sayin'). You could try it, and we may all be surprised at your good results, but, sadly, history is not on your side. I do, however, use my hand drill as a sort of a crude lathe. I place anything cylindrical in the chuck and clamp the drill in my bench vise, and have at it with a file. As I said, crude but effective. I have on occasion clamped a lathe bit in my milling machine vise, and used the spindle of the mill like the headstock of a lathe. It works OK for simple OD turning, but no substitute for a nice (thread cutting) lathe. Man, I gotta get one of them! Manitou
  7. Tinker, The Morris taper idea is a good one, I've got access to those reamers as well. I think you'll really be surprised how much the double sided tape helps. I use the kind that is built around fiber or cloth, for carpet use. It's heavy duty. I know a local fellow that used the foam based kind, and it kind of peeled apart.
  8. Thanks for all of the replies! I managed to get a collet to grip on a smaller semi-non tapered part of the barrel to turn the threads, now I'm wondering how to torgue the barrel on to the reeiver. Although I'm not completly sold on this idea yet, I might bore an aluminum barrel bushing to the largest diameter of the barrel, right at the shoulder. Then I'll paint the barrel (liberally) with release agent, place it in the bushing, and fill it with acraglas steel bed. I should be able to knock the barrel bushing off and split it, and then use it like a non- tapered bushing. I used to worry about marring the barel with a bushing, or bushing slippage, but then I put one thickness of double sided carpet tape between the barrel and the bushing, and no more slipping ever occurs.
  9. I know that some of you guys can help me. With the way that the Rem 700 barrel tapers, how do you hold it in the lathe? Even up to the shoulder, there is no flat spot to affix in the collet while turning the small ring threads for my Turk. I know about the use of a "spider", and plan to use one. And do you use a tapered bushing in the barrel vise when torqueing the barrel on? Thanks, Manitou
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