TLynn Posted July 3, 2005 Report Share Posted July 3, 2005 montea6b 1 Posts: 259 (6/11/05 19:20) Reply Checkering cradle -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Well, checkering progress is exceedingly slow. For numerous reasons, one of which is that I lack a decent checkering cradle. I have been getting by using vises, but found myself having to contort awkwardly to get around the curves on my wrap around design. Now I don't need infinite adjustability, but 90 degrees of rotation at a time just wasn't cutting it. I was hoping to avoid shelling out $ for another piece of gear I would seldom use, so being that it was a blustery rainy day in the Northwest, I ground some more beans for a fresh pot of coffee and set out to figure out a better way to checker with the resources on hand. Here's what I came up with: What I did was to make use of two small vises that clamp to a work surface. (In this case the dining room table) I mounted one of them to a scrap piece of 2x6, which I then nipped the corners off at a 45 so that it would seat further down in the one mounted to the table. As you can see in the other picture below, I supported the other end with a sandbag. It's a pretty stable arrangement and made it much easier to work on the rounded part of the forearm. Although it is far from perfect I am reasonably satisfied with the results thus far and I think the finished product will do just fine for a first time sporter. Here's how it looks to date: (Sorry for the poor photo, I'll try for some better ones as I get it finished up.) z1r 1 Posts: 2817 (6/11/05 20:10) Reply Re: Checkering cradle -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Your checkering is most impressive! I have all the tools but I can tell I won;t be using them for years. I'm gonna pay someone to do mine, just not enough time. Mucho kudos! There was a real nice article in one of the recent Shooting Times or G&A mags on making a checkering cradle. Doble Troble 1 Posts: 488 (6/11/05 20:46) Reply Re: Checkering cradle -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Great idea, Monte. I think I'm going to rig up something similar with my shop vise. I've got a big drill press vise that may work. The checkering's looking good too. You must be really patient. I wouldn't be able to keep myself from hurrying through that job just to see how it comes-out - being able to slow down and do it right is a very valuable discipline - that I don't have but desperately need! Either that or I've got to figure-out how to checker well fast (we need a head banging against the wall emoticon). I am Bubba (but learning) montea6b 1 Posts: 260 (6/11/05 21:27) Reply Re: Checkering cradle -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Thanks Z. Do you happen to have that magazine, or is it possibly still on the stands? I'll try looking for it. I'd like to make a proper cradle sometime. I've heard that Monty Kennedy's book has directions to make one, but I haven't gotten around to adding it to the library. I can be patient, but mostly I limit myself to short sessions because the concentration fatigues me and then I get scared that I'll goof up! I've been 20/20 unaided all my life, but once I started checkering I actually bought a pair of drugstore reading glasses to help ease the eyestrain. When I started I one of those hinged elbow type lamps with a large magnifying glass on the end, but I found the depth of field to be too limiting. I had to keep my eyes at exacty the right distance from the lense or I'd lose focus. Almost impossible when you're working around a curve and have to keep re-positioning the light/lense. The grampa glasses are just the ticket. (Besides, my 8 yr old daughter told me I look handsome in them! ) claytonfaulkner 1 Posts: 118 (6/13/05 1:30) Reply Re: Checkering cradle -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- wow i want to lean how to do that, got any tips you could give some1 trying to get into it? z1r 1 Posts: 2821 (6/13/05 9:45) Reply Re: Checkering cradle -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- I'll try to find the article/magazine & report back. montea6b 1 Posts: 262 (6/13/05 12:33) Reply Re: Checkering cradle -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Clayton, My advice would be like the Nike commercial: "Just do it!" Buy yourself a set of cutters and start practicing on scraps. Make sure they are hardwood scraps, preferably with curves similar to a stock. When you get comfortable, try it out on a fairly plain wood stock. I went fairly ambitious on my first go with a wraparound design, but you can pick something a little more simple. You'll need a comfortable workspace, proper lighting, etc. (read that as adjustable light source. You'll want to change it around to get just the right angle to highlight your cuts.) There are books available. "Checkering and carving of gunstocks" by Monty Kennedy is supposed to be good. I have a fairly short paperback booklet that discusses layout etc. Somewhat useful, but not very complete. The name escapes me, but it was pretty inexpensive and I think I ordered it from Brownells when I bought the cutters. Attention Bill S: If you're thinking of chiming in here, you can save yourself some typing. I cut and pasted one of your lengthy and very informative posts on checkering into a MSWord file for future reference. I think I even have a photo or two that you posted with layout lines, etc. When I get home tonight I'll dig it out and re-post. Consider it a partial rebuilding of an archive quality dissertation on the subject of checkering, post ez-board crash. Speaking of that, we need a snappy name or reference for "the day" that we lost our history when the boards were hacked. Something like "9-11", "A day that will live in infamy", "BC and AD", etc. Any ideas? montea6b 1 Posts: 268 (6/13/05 19:29) Reply Re: Checkering cradle -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- As promised, here are some excellent tips that were shared on this site before the crash. They were originally posted by Bill Soverns of Soverns custom Gunstocks: CHECKERING: I saw a recent post where folks were looking for some help on checkering. Here are a few things I have learned on the subject along with my equipment list. Equipment : Ralph Bone Checkering cradle clamped in a vise. 100 watt swing arm lamp WE Brownells full view hand tools with Dembart F1 one cutters. Monty Kennedy jointer viener Dorion Power checkering tool. Labeling tape stiff blade knife Scribe White soft mark pencils. The first thing my mentor hammered into my head was if the layout isn’t right nothing with be right. Spending extra time on your layout will save you much heartache down the road. I do use some templates for small items (like fleur de lis) but generally most of my patterns are drawn right on the stock with a ruler and a white pencil. The soft pencils are nice because they will not mar the finish and you can erase them easily. I try and pick out some lines on the stock I want to accent and draw my checkering accordingly. Its all a matter of personal taste here folks. My straight lines are put in with a scribe and a ruler. Curves are cut with a very sharp short blade knife. The borders are cut to half depth either with a veiner or jointer. Master lines are layed out with a jointer. Once my master lines are in and straight I take some Dymo labeling tape and lay it along the master lines and draw a pencil mark. Keep leap-frogging the tape all the way across the pattern. This will help you as you cut your initial lines. You will be able to see if the line wanders and be able to make corrections. Use your jointer to straighten out those lines. I make mistakes all the time and the jointer bails me out 95% of the time. Here is a picture of the initial lines on a pattern and the leap-frogged pencil lines. (Technical difficulties precluded me from posting the picture. I had pasted the entire post into Word, but the photo shows up as a Word "scrap" file, and can't be saved separately as a picture file. If anybody wants to see it, send me an email and I will forward you the Word file.) Always remember to cut all your lines in one direction before turning the stock around and doing the other side. NEVER space two directions at the same time. Checkering at 18 and 20 lpi is actually more difficult than say 22 or 24 lpi. The bigger the diamonds the deeper you must go. This means more passes over the lines and potential for more mistakes. I started out at 20 and after about 2 stocks moved up to 22, then did 24 for a long time. I still do 24 lpi a lot but really prefer 26 lpi. Its not any harder and about 2 passes over the lines is all you need. You checkering cradle must be able to hold the stock firmly in place but also allow you to rotate the stock freely. I have had 3 cradles. One home made (Monty Kennedys book) and two from Brownells. The cheap one from Brownells is not worth having in my opinion. The Ralph Bone cradle is extremely nice but expensive. I was hesitant to buy it at first but I do not regret the decision. The Dorion power tool is probably the best money I’ve spent in stockmaking. I hated it at first and if you don’t keep the tool perpendicular to the surface some absolute horrors can occur. I wouldn’t sell it now for anything. Lines are straighter and done much faster. I can’t say enough good things about it. Tight spots are no problem for the tool. Now where was I......... Once your first lines are cut (pattern spaced both directions) I will typically go over them again with the power tool and then move to the F1 Demart cutters for a light finishing pass. You light should be kept behind you shining over your shoulder and keep your body inline with the lines your are cutting. This will keep you from pushing or pulling the line out of shape. Cut your border to full depth and then start checking for shiners. Shiners are diamonds that are not up to a point. Use your F1 cutter to get them to depth. Don’t just leave them sit there. Repairs: When I really screw the proverbial pooch I take some sawdust and super glue and fix it. If I cant cut the line deeper to fix the error I sprinkle some walnut sawdust in the bad spot. Soak it with super glue and let it dry. Then re-cut. You will never see it once the pattern is complete and you have some finish on it. BTW – don’t use English sawdust on a black walnut stock or vice versa. Match up your wood types. Fuzz: Sometimes for what ever reason the wood fuzzes when your checkering and it looks like hell. I soak the area with super glue and make like passes with the hand tool. Cuts the fuzz right off. I've heard of guys burning it off with a propane torch but I’m not that brave. Hope this helps! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts