weaver77 Posted February 11, 2008 Report Share Posted February 11, 2008 i started this one about a week ago it is a boyd's clasic in pepper laminate semi inleted i hope the pics and text make sense im better at just showing some one how to do something than telling them so if something is not clear or needs to be clarified please chime in criticizem is well come correcting my spelling is not i know it suxs the first pics are of the stock and barreled action before any inletting was done the next are of the barreled action inleted and being glass bedded now that the barreled action is in place i start with the proud wood around the triggergaurd and rasp it down to with in about 1/16" above the triggergaurd extending a flat across the bottom of the fore arm all the way to the tip in a straight line i make sure and leave it slighty high so that there is still wood that needs to be removed using finer files and sand papper so that by the time the wood line matches the metal lines all file marks are removed i check my progess with a straight edge and the closer i get to the metal the slower i go be verry carefull not to remove too much wood as by the time all file marks are removed you will end up with proud metal which is unacceptable so go slow and if you think you are getting close stop you can always take more off latter with finer cutting files and sand papper after the flat on the bottom is done i file flats at approx 45 degree angles to it on the sides these flats should tapper slightly with the narrow ends being towards the trigger guard and wider at the tip but stopping stopping short of or at the leading end of the triggerguard depending on if you are going to leave a flat contour around the triggerguard or if you are going to round the bottom of the stock off to the triggerguard it is easier to round the bottom off and if you are you can extend the flats along the sides of the triggerguard again it is important not to remove too much wood or you will end up with proud metal you must also remember that you are only rough shaping the stock right now and final shaping and blending will be done with fine cut files sand papper and scrapers i used the files in the next pic to try and help illustrate after both flats are done i rasp in another set of flats on the edges formed by the three exsisting flats these should also taper wider at tip narrower towards triggerguard i tried to give a better idea of how the flats should look by using the tape and file you are now starting to round the fore arm back off the next step will be to rasp in four more flats on the edges formed by the previous ones at this point it is nessecery to decide wether the bottom of the stock will have a flat contuor around the triggerguard or be rounded off if it is to be rounded off you can continue to rasp and file in flats untill the forearm of the stock is close to the desired shape i havent decided wich way to go yet as the boyd stocks are a little lean in this area and i havent quite figured out the best way for it to be done any one that has more experince in this area is welcome to join in more pics to come soon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clemson Posted February 11, 2008 Report Share Posted February 11, 2008 Very helpful, Weaver77! Thanks for the excellent pointers, and keep 'em coming Clemson Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sonic1 Posted February 11, 2008 Report Share Posted February 11, 2008 it"s a shame these stocks have gone to $173.00 and finished only on there web site..i don"t know if you can find one unfinished any more? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
weaver77 Posted February 11, 2008 Author Report Share Posted February 11, 2008 sonic sporter express has them unfinished for about $84 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
weaver77 Posted February 11, 2008 Author Report Share Posted February 11, 2008 in these next pics the forend has been rough shaped and rounded i decided to round it off to the triggergaurd the sides of the forend where to thick so i thinned them by rasping a very obtuse angle starting at the top of the barrel channel on both sides then rasping the peaks off in to flats just like before untill the desire contour is reached i left the bottom slightly wider then the top leaving the center section of the stock alone for now i moved on to the grip area it was to close and thick also notice how the stock is thicker on one side in the middle along side the action we will worry about this latter i start opening the grip up by rasping a flat in to it and moving the forward line of the grip back the desired amount in this case about 3/8 to 1/2" i then rasp flats into it on each side of the first flat and continue doing this untill i get it shaped correctly or if a grip cap was to be installed i would shape it to match remember to leave engough extra wood to be able to sand out the file marks latter i also removed the excess wood around the rear of the triggerguard notice the high spots at the guard these will be removed latter when the triggerguard is removed and will be filled down to match the lower areas around it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
weaver77 Posted February 12, 2008 Author Report Share Posted February 12, 2008 i can now turn the stock over and recontour the top to the grip area up to the rear reciever bridge i also moved the leading edge of the comb back alittle as can be seen the same method of rasping in flats and the rasping down the peaks was used to get the desired contour this is a good time to check the comb hieght to be sure it clears the bolt it didnt so i lowered the leading top edge of of the come to get minimum clearnce the next step is to bring the comb line down on a straight line with the clearence cut made for the bolt remove the minimum amount of wood needed to get a straight line and get minimum clearance for the bolt latter when this is contoured and finish sanded you will have plenty of clearance and still have a high enough comb for scope use using the same method rasp flats into the sides of the comb and repeat untill desired contour is reached the flats should be slightly wider at the front of the comb than at the back of the comb Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron J Posted February 14, 2008 Report Share Posted February 14, 2008 Wow. Don't know whether to thank Weaver for the answer or Bilurey for the question!! I've done a similar deal to a stock. Came out okay, too. But not anywhere near as thought out as that. Your process is much better. Thanks for the great tutorial. Ron Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
weaver77 Posted February 14, 2008 Author Report Share Posted February 14, 2008 i have more to come yet including the bolt work but loading pics on photo bucket is no easy task for me the putting every thing here in order takes alot of time but i am working on it weaver77 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
weaver77 Posted February 14, 2008 Author Report Share Posted February 14, 2008 alright the butt and comb of the stock have been reshaped and the the flutes in the comb where cut a little deeper and squared with round and half round files i have also started blending the grip tang area into the sides of the stock it is a good idea to install the bolt stop so that too much wood is not removed in this area again be sure not to remove too much wood so that all file marks and final sanding can be done with out ending up with proud metal at this point i needed the bolt handle turned down so that i could transition the grip and tang area in to the sides of the stock so heres how i did this particular bolt using the original bolt handle first using a metal cut off wheel i cut the handle off right where it starts to become round and so that it will not come out to short i use a grade 9 bolt to add to the handle i then grind my welds down by chucking the handle up a drill and spinning it first on the bench grinder to remove the excess then on a belt sander to get a nice even contour the handle is then cut off to desired length wich was 2 1/2" in this case the handle was then positioned under the square shank on the bolt body at desired angles and tack welded and checked with every thing where it needed to be it was welded up shaped and contoured the notch in the stock and action tang where cut using a dremmel tool and small hand files and the bolt was fitted into the stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doble Troble Posted February 14, 2008 Report Share Posted February 14, 2008 NICE, NICE, NICE and EXCELLENT! Close-ups of your bolt would be very helpful. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
weaver77 Posted February 14, 2008 Author Report Share Posted February 14, 2008 heres a look at how every thing is starting to come together the sides of the stock along the action still need to thinned and blended into the bottom forend and grip tang area,reinstalling and resizing the butt pad and final sanding in preperation of wood finishing are yet to be done Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
weaver77 Posted February 14, 2008 Author Report Share Posted February 14, 2008 NICE, NICE, NICE and EXCELLENT! Close-ups of your bolt would be very helpful. thanks for the kind comments i got a few shots in there sorry some of them are not too clear i think the ones using the flash are a little better like in the next reply Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
weaver77 Posted February 14, 2008 Author Report Share Posted February 14, 2008 here are some more shots of the bolt i mocked up a scope to give a good idea of the clearance i have Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rdfrench31 Posted February 14, 2008 Report Share Posted February 14, 2008 that bolt turned out really nice.//what kind of welder do you have? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
weaver77 Posted February 14, 2008 Author Report Share Posted February 14, 2008 that bolt turned out really nice.//what kind of welder do you have? an old lincon gas powered sae 200 stick welder Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
~DEVO~ Posted February 15, 2008 Report Share Posted February 15, 2008 Holy Snaps!!! Your rasping technique for the stock is cool and your bolt method is sweet. Did you eyeball the alignment of the bolt handle and the bolt before you welded it or did you use a jig? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ken98k Posted February 15, 2008 Report Share Posted February 15, 2008 "an old lincon gas powered sae 200 stick welder" Well I'm certainly impressed! I can tell this aint your first day on the job. Kenny Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
weaver77 Posted February 16, 2008 Author Report Share Posted February 16, 2008 i started welding on the farm when i was twelve we have a family friend that is a welder and machinist instructor that got me started i eye ball my bolt alingment then tack weld and check some times it takes a couple of tries to get it right this rifle i am building as a trade so i went as cheap as possible and reused the military bolt handle the bolts handles on the yugos come out alot nicer using this method as the nobs have more of the pear shape that i prefer compared to the round one on this bolt i usually save the yugo bolt handles when i replace them with after market ones so i can use them on other builds so dont throw yours away send them my way i am almost done with the stock now and have a lot more pics to post maybe latter tonight i will get around to loading them on to photo bucket and then here thanks for the compliments and the replies weaver77 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
weaver77 Posted February 16, 2008 Author Report Share Posted February 16, 2008 i removed the bottom metal and filed the high spots down and contour that area to blend into the surrounding area the sides of the stock along the action still needed to be thinned and contoured up to the ejector box and into forarm of stock so i installed the ejector box and removed wood at a long angles towards the bottom of the stock then filed down the peak and began blending the sides into the rest of the stock for a smooth look i used a finer cut fill for this as i wanted to start removing the rasp marks this being done i turned my attention to the loading port area of the stock which was still squared off to the action i used a half round file to bevel this area and started sanding the stock with 220 grit to remove the file and rasp marks being carful not to remove to much wood from the metal and wood junctions so as not to leave proud metal and followed the 220 with 320 grit i then refit the recoil pad and installed the sling swivels(which i didnt take any pics of ) and finish sanded the complete stock but still left the wood a little proud to be sanded down after the first application of stock finish i find it easier to see any imperfections and correct them with the stock a little shiny every thing stand out a little better and since the first coats of finish are intended to penetrate the wood sanding the surface again doesnt hurt anything and gives the finish a better chance to penetrate during the latter applications heres a few pics of the assembled rifle after sanding i am satisfied with the shape and the balance of it and will now start putting the finish on the stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BradD Posted February 16, 2008 Report Share Posted February 16, 2008 Weaver, great presentation! You put a lot of effort into putting it together for us and I know sometimes you'd rather just get your work done, but it sure was worth it for us. I know what you mean about the round knob, but I'm impressed with how you salvaged the original handle. Had you considered chucking the handle in a lathe while it's off the bolt and sculpting the knob to more of a pear shape? Thanks again, Brad Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carzngunz Posted February 17, 2008 Report Share Posted February 17, 2008 Excellent job weaver77! This is much appreciated. I have one of those stocks that I am getting ready to start on. This is very helpful. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bilurey Posted February 22, 2008 Report Share Posted February 22, 2008 I just found your post. Wonderful job, this definately needs to be archived, then printed up and sold to newbies who really need some clear guidance, and this is the best illustrated description I've ever seen. Wish I had seen this 40 years ago when I took measurments out of gun magazines and the Gun Digests, then, stood and looked for a day or two before removing any wood or metal. Only messed up one stock, but, turned out quite a few uninspired stocks on flat sawn, utility grade, roughly shaped and inletted, walnut 2x4s. Congratulations and thank you. Sincerest regards, Bill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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