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Pedestal

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  1. As for the pitting: get yourself a good Norton whetstone, one of thelarge ones about 8"/10" long. You want a very fine side. You won't use the coarse side. Set the action up in a vise where you can easily move it around. Get your bottle of honing oil and go to work. The secret is keep the stone moving, never use it like a file. The whole idea of using the stone, and not a polishing wheel is to keep the reciever true and square. It goes pretty quick. After ten or fifteen minutes of "honest" work, you'll be able to tell if the pits are truly minor. You'll have to be the judge of if they are too deep to take out with the stone. If they are, then you don't want a high polish on the metal, you'll want a bead blast finish. If they come out, the sky is the limit. Sandpaper on various sizes of wooden dowels work well for the concave surfaces. Again, a caution about polishing wheels. They are REALLY good at screwing up the "lines" of the action, making their own pits and lumps.
  2. Don't fool with any equipment other than Victor or Smith, with Victor preferred. The cheap stuff on Ebay, etc. is not worth fooling with. Expect to pay about $250 for small tanks (ox/atc), and about $250 for a beginning Victor kit (new). Of course, used prices can beat that by a considerable amount, if you get lucky. If you decide on a MIG, do NOT expect to use one of the gasless, flux core wire for gun work. (They are not bad for general repair work, though.)
  3. I start with 60 grit sandpaper wrapped around a short piece of wooden dowel, as close to size of the curve as I can get. Work down from there...
  4. Here's a pic for you: The top one is in .357Max, the bottom is .17 Ackley Bee. Took a deer a year or so ago with the Max. (one shot, about 125yds) I really like the little rifle, perfectly adequate on our smaller Texas deer, and very handy. I still have the .357Max reamer I could make a deal with you for, or if you know how, (I don't) I could send it to the reamer loan thingy they have going here. I have a large Martini action, it may wind up being a .50-90 (or some BP round). I would like to have one of the .303 actions-I really have the urge for a 7x57Martini!...
  5. Here is a couple of pics that I used the Lauer stuff on. I like it. It appears to be very tough, is moderately easy to appy. I went exactly by the instructions, but did not use all the pre-cut "camo tape" that came with the kit in top picture. Bottom was done mostly out of leftovers.
  6. It's a much modified Ramline, I picked up used a couple of years ago. First, I chopped about 2" out of the forearm. The inside of the forearm was filled some with styrofoam strips, an aluminum rod was set in, and the whole barrel channel then glassed with Acragel. An aluminum pillar was made for the rear action screw. The barrel was free floated after the first short step. The butt was filled with expanding foam, and wood blocks were glassed in to recieve the buttpad screws. The orginal buttpad was trash, it was replaced with a 1/2" Pachmeyer. After reshaping the forearm and sanding the whole thing down, it was painted with Lauer Weapons Epoxy paint. The original color was white, so I dyed it a gray with some Acuraglas dye. (It looks like it has a blue tint in the picture but it doesn't) Metalwork was painted with Lauer Weapons Epoxy "Gun Blue" after blasting.
  7. Right close to Groveton, TX. About 1600 acres. Been a good season-lot better than last year...
  8. Here's a pic of Frankenstein, loads are 43grs of IMR 4895 behind the Hornady 150gr. And here's a typical target...
  9. This is a very poor pic of the "basketrack" 8pt I took opening day with "Frankenstien". Load was my own handload. I did order a box of the Hornady 7.65, but it shot groups almost twice as large as my handloads. This was a fun and -relatively- cheap project. The little rifle handles quite well. Range was only about 50 yards, and the bullet went all the way through. Entrance just behind the front shoulder, exit through the offside shoulder, ranging down a bit.
  10. I think blasting is an absolute necessity for a good job. You can get by with a much finer grit than they recommend (and I prefer 320) but you still have to blast...
  11. I have used it on several guns, with fairly good results. As with all paints, prep is the key. I have only used the black. I would strongly recommend you NOT use the spray can version. That's what I used, and like any spray can, it's difficult to get a good, even job. Not impossible, but difficult. Invest in a $20 airbrush. I have recently started using Lauer Weapons paints, and like them a LOT. They are tougher than Gunkote (and should be, they are 2 part epoxy, not bake on). Downside is they are a bit more expensive. Back to the Gunkote. On the first one I did, I masked off the rails, basically all the internal surfaces. On another one, I did NOT (other than the chamber area), and so far, it has held up to the bolt riding on it. But it has not seen a lot of use, either. In no case did I do the bolt.
  12. I've posted these before, but.... The top one is in .357 Maximum, the bottom one is in .17 Ackely Bee. Nice little fun guns. I've got a large frame in the works, probably will be a .50-90 BP. Will be a while before that one is done...
  13. Doubtful you'll find guages or reamer without having them custom made.
  14. As Zlr indicated, you really need both to do an inletting job. You can make them yourself, with a modicum of work. The guide screws are quite easy to make with a die nut. If you work on Mauser actions a lot, a die nut and tap for the action threads are handy things to have around the shop. For a one shot deal, though, I'd just buy them.
  15. Thread files work just fine for laying out the lines-I have used one for that. You have to finish with triangular files, same as with a "real" checkering file. The only problem with the thread file is it's normally too coarse to make good looking checkering. Typically, metal checkering is much finer than wood checkering, usually 30lpi to 45lpi.
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