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680guy

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  1. The only time I've held a mauser bolt that looked like that was thirty years ago in a friends gunsmith shop. He had built a guy a rifle with Mark X mauser action in some wildcat cartridge, I can't recall the round. The guy was fireforming brass with reduced loads. Wayne, the gunsmith, advised him to use a fast burning rifle powder or even pistol powder for these reduced loads. The guy ignored his advise and used the 4350 he had on hand and destroyed the rifle the first time he pulled the trigger. I've read warnings in a few reloading manuals about under loading slow burning powders but none explain what can happen and the consequenses seem contrary to logic.I'm not suggesting that's what happened here, Polinidad seems to be a knowledgable and careful handloader, just looking at the pictures of that bolt reminded me of that one long ago. GUY
  2. Nice work Brenden. Did you realize you've created the perfect elk and moose rifle (and deer as well). Any plans to put it to work? GUY
  3. Thanks for the help guys. I was planing to get at it this week but turns out I gotta work out of town for another week. Maybe next weekend. I'm really just glad to be working, it's been a slow winter. THANKS AGAIN GUY
  4. I'm rebarreling an earlier project. The old barrel was 24", the new one is 21" . I plan on shortening the stock but that will leave the front swivel stud too close to the tip. My plan is to cut the stock back a couple inches below the stud and add a forearm tip to the new desired length. A friend gave me a piece of Brazlian cherry that I think will look nice but I'm not sure of the best method of attaching it. I have a doweling kit with 1/4" hardwood dowels, I was thinking of using 2 or 3 of these but not sure on the type of adhesive, (wood glue, epoxy ?) or if the dowels are even needed. The new barrel is a 257 Roberts so recoil wont be bad. GUY
  5. I bought an old stevens shotgun last winter from gunbroker and had it shipped to a local gundealer. When I went to his shop to pick it up, he asked me how old it was. From what I knew they were made about 7-8 years before and after WWII. I asked him why? He said it had no serial number but if it was that old it was ok, that it was common, then, for guns not to have them until some time in the 50's when it became manditory. When I got home I did a little research on stevens and found they didn't put numbers on some if not most of their guns at that time. I don't know if this helps you in your case you'll probably need to do more research and get some advice from someone who knows federal gun laws. GUY
  6. Yeah, I had the same problem with a Ramline. They sent me a free replacement and that one cracked too. I never asked for another .
  7. I got one when Midway was offering a free corelite stock with certain A&B barrels. I like the stock except for the wrist area, it feels like your wrapping your thumb around a 2 x 4. I don't know why anyone wouldv'e designed it that way. Perhaps they needed to strengthen the wrist or needed to change the design to avoid a patent infringement. I was also wondering if anyone has had any luck reshaping one of these. GUY
  8. I don't know if's the right way but I had a 788 rem stock warp as you say, except to the right. Since 788s have very plain cheap "hardwood" stocks I figured I had little to loose. I removed the stock and found a piece of thin flexible plastic cut a 1" strip, then put the rifle back togather with that piece of plastic between the barrel and the stock at the tip of the forearm, then put the rifle back in the closet for five months. When I finally removed the stock it had returned close to it's original position. I then glass bedded the action and a few inches in front of the reciever. I had to sand just a little on the left side of barrel channel then sealed the barrel channel with marine spar varnish. That always was an accurate rifle but now shoots even better. I don't know if this will work for you that stock was soft I think its birch and the barrel is pretty stiff and heavy, I'm not sure I would of tried it on light sporter barrel. Guy
  9. I have a 93 DWM mauser that I picked up a few years back. It had problems with the original sporterized bolt and with the help of this forum, I realized it needed to be replaced. The replacement bolt appears to be from a turkish mauser (I think, there's a small cresent stamped into the bolt shroad) which, I believe, is also made in Germany. It fits well, the headspace is a little long, it nearly closes on the NO-GO gauge but not on the FIELD gauge. The original bolt had a small gas relief port on the left side of the bolt (when the rifle is cocked) the replacement bolt has none. Is this common to 93 bolts? Can or should a gas relief port be drilled into the bolt? Would the altered bolt need to be reheat treated? I know these rifles don't handle gas relief as well as 98 mausers when a case ruptures but I'd like it as safe as possible.
  10. Jerry, the 6mm rem.is an outstanding choice. I bought one 29 years ago, and I can assure you the accuracy of this cartrige can be amazing, and with 100 gr. bullets its an exellent deer cartrige as well, but, if your buddy isn't a handloader, finding factory ammo in varmint weight bullets will not be as easy as a 22-250 or a 243. I was handloading when I bought the rifle got out of it for 10 - 15 years, shooting factory ammo, then got back into handloading. I saw that 9 out of 10 retailers selling ammo didn't carry it, and when they did, light varmint bullets were scare to nonexistant. Today he should be able to find plenty of ammo on the internet, it just takes a little more time and planning. I still think it's the best cartridge for what you want, and if he's not already a handloader, mayby this is a good way to get him started. GUY
  11. Nice job, I'm just getting a DWM 93 spanish ready for blueing. I hope mine turns out that nice, I'm going to try Pilkingtons Rust Blue I've used Brownells Dicropan IM on past projects but the barrels always got some streaking. That stock looks great. I must say it has more figure than I'd expect based on pictures in catalogs of their stocks and the inletting looks good as well. Did you have any problems? I haven't ordered a stock yet I want to see how it shoots first. I was considering an Old Classic Mannlicher from Richards but that will get quiet pricey. Past experience with Boyd's inletting rules them out. What you've shown me gives me more options. THANKS and again very nice work. GUY
  12. Clark, I'd bet that barrel came off a 721 Rem. same theads as a 700 but that's how the sights were attached on on the 721. It's just an early version of the 700. If that barrel is as good as the two I've seen (I own one of them ) you got a real good shooter.
  13. I don't have a lathe, so I use a hacksaw , round grinding stone and carriage bolt described on Steve Wagner's website. I really had my doubts, so when I cut down a turk barrel, I cut it at 26" figuring if it didn't work a gunsmith could fix it. That rifle is shooting 1/2" groups at 100 yds. Here's the strange part, when I put my Leopold magnetic boresighter on it after it's sighted in, it shows it way high to the left. On my other rifles with factory crowns, once sighted in, all center in the boresighter. This makes me believe that my muzzle cut is not square but somehow the rotary action of the round grinding stone and the carriage bolt with valve grinding compound cut concentric to the bore. Just a theory but in any case the carriage bolt works.
  14. For what it's worth, the two turkish recievers I've rebarreled with take-off barrels both headspaced without having to ream or set back the shoulder, but if that's normal I can't say. I considered myself lucky with those projects. I haven't read the article in SN but any German reproduction scope mounts I've seen are always big$. If it were me and I was already spending good money for a special rifle and I wanted a military profile I'd spend a little more and get a Lothar Walther barrel. Sporter Express offers them for less than $200.
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