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DigginDave

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  1. I'm havin a heck of a time finding a upper hand guard and band for my Hakim. Would it be possible to use AG42 parts? I'm pretty new to the autos. Hope nobody passes out from laughter.
  2. DigginDave

    Gew 71/84?

    My buddy has one he picked up a while back chambered in 45/70. Someone started the project and never finished. It's single shot as it sits and I guess it goes bang. (We've never tried, but that's what the guy told us.
  3. I have the most luck with 139 gr to 140 grain rounds. Factory ammo I can clover leaf at 150 yds. Usually. Laugh. I just picked up some 95 gr custom Hornady V-max bullets yesterday. Can't wait to try them. I'll keep you posted on them. Mabey I could help shine some light on the whole "to lite" issue. I found so far though that my 2 swedes love long bullets. Good luck.
  4. Very sweet. I wouldn't want to stand near it in a match. I'd be drooling to much.
  5. I love mine. I thought I got a good deal at $325. Be sure to use .457 balls, which is what Ruger recommends if you never had one. Most of the pistols I've seen all take something a little different. Ruger's website has viewable instruction books and you can even see how old your gun is by the serial #. I was surprised to find that mine was made in 1984, and still in unfired condition. Being stainless probably helped keep it pristine too. Good luck with it. I've had quite a few revolvers, and the Old Army by far has the smoothest action of any. http://www.ruger.com/Firearms/PS-InstructionManuals.html http://www.ruger.com/Firearms/PS-SerialNumberHistory.html Here are some quick links.
  6. He says he has built a special jig that he uses to hold the action in his lathe and cuts the inner barrel seat to the rifles center of axis. I hope I said that right. He says he doesn't take off much. Gets it within .001". The treads are done on a lathe too. He said he'll take a series of measuement to see if my action would benefit first. It will be a pre-threaded barrel. Can't afford a Hart right now.
  7. Thanks for the replies. This is my first sporter, so perhaps "blueprint" was a strong term. Here is what the smith is offering: a) Face & True Front of Receiver $12.00 Re-cut inner barrel seat $30.00 c) Lap Bolt lugs & receiver locking recesses $45.00 d) True & lap bolt face $25.00 e) Retrace Threads $12.00 Total for all above $124.00 I own quite a few guns. Most are WW2 rifles, 3 Ithaca doubles and various other shotguns. Even a handful of muzzle loaders. But a while back, I picked up a tack driving Swede at a gun show. It was decked out with a sporter stock, bolt and was ready for a scope. I mounted a scope and just recently had the bolt jeweled. Need less to say, I'm in love. Now, I'd like to build one from the ground up, so I can sit back and say "I built that." I picked up a mint K98 action and installed a Timney trigger, low scope safety - the whole nine yards. Now comes the time to install a barrel. I've been researching and can't decide to have the above processes done. I'd hate to have the barrel installed and headspaced, only to come to the conclusion that I should have done it first. As someone guessed, it will be used for hunting. Thanks agian for the input, and feel free to add more replies. Mabey the above will help with whats going through my mind. I will try to figure out how to post pictures of my swede and action if anybody is interested.
  8. Is having a mauser action blue printed worth the extra money. I'm building a .257 Roberts and was wondering if it was worth the $130.
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