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Military Firearm Restoration Corner

bstarling

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Burgaw NC USA
  • Interests
    Guns, Fishing, Music

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  1. The extractor maybe worn or not grabbing the case rim tightly. I did a 8x57 to 35 Whelen conversion and had the same problem. There were two issues. The extractor and also I had to open the forward part of the rails to guide the round better. The Whelen is wider at the tip of the round and needs more clearance near the feed ramp. Bill
  2. I continue to be impressed with your work Darin. I love that Carcano bolt handle. Who did that one? Bill
  3. You can make a mandrel from an old Mauser barrel stub. That way you can make it the length you need and it will fit into a 7x machine. I have a 7x12 Homier and it can face a receiver and if necessary thread a barrel. The motors don't have a lot of torque so you have to thread fast. That is nerve wracking for me, but it can be done. Bill
  4. Outstanding!! Congratulations to both of you. Bill
  5. Darin, did you use the barrel stub from the original barrel and bore it to take the 357 barrel? I've heard of that being done with H&R single shots. Bill
  6. That magazine sounds like a perfectly good arrangement for the sort of hunting you described. I am amazed at the nice wood for $15, and your woodworking is great as well. I imagine that you can load that 357 up pretty hot in that big old Mannlicher action. Have you gotten it to the test firing stage? Bill
  7. Darin, I've been following this project off and and on for a while. This is a really creative use of an old Manlicher action. I may have missed it, but how did you make the magazine? The old Carnaco's all used rimless ammo with the Manlicher clip. I can see that you've replaced that entirely. As an aside, one of those in the long rifle configuration was my first military rifle. I bought it at a JM Fields store for $7.50 when I was 14. I rode my bike to the store, paid my $$ and rode home with the gun and 20 rounds of ammo. Oh how things have changed. Bill
  8. For what it's worth, I was recently considering building a 308 on a 98 action. Wound up doing a 35 Whelen instead, but to the point, I tried the function of 308's through the action and had no problem at all with feeding. I haven't finished the Whelen yet, but hope I have the same success with it feeding, but I bet I won't. Good luck, Bill
  9. LOL! I thought I was the only one with a fixation on that gal..............OH MY GOODNESS!!!! Bill
  10. I had actually thought of that but decided it would be more economical to calculate the clicks of correction and dial them into the scope when changing barrels. The multiple scopes and bolts would work really well though. Does anyone have any experience with the Dura-Coat in the stainless steel or gun blue colors? Bill
  11. Tinker, Thanks for the welcome. I've been hanging around for a while and decided to get involved a bit. The rifle I'm in the process of doing is a screw in job using a lengthened thread on the shank. About 3 threads will work. I have made a barrel nut along the line of the Savage system. I've experimented with a 8mm military barrel and just turned the shoulder down and added three threads to it for the nut. It works just fine and is a cinch to headspace. I can take it off and replace it and headspace in 60 seconds flat. The sighting system is still somewhat of a mystery. The idea of a scout scope on each barrel certainly would work. I have also thought that I can do some range work with the barrels and come up with a way of compensating for each barrel by presetting the scope after changing barrels. This would involve some record keeping, but should work well. I think! This is very much a work in progress and any suggestions would be appreciated. Bill
  12. This thread is very interesting to me. I am in the process of making a change barrel on an FN30 Colombian action. It too has some craters in the ring, especially where the wood overlapped at the front. I've thought about the parkerizing as well, but after seeing the one with the stainless coating I think that might be the way to go. I am wondering if the stainless Dura-Coat would work as well. JB Weld could be used as a filler under this as it does no need baking. The first barrel for the set up is going to be a 35 Whelen by the way. Bill
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