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Military Firearm Restoration Corner

Spector

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  1. AcraGlas is a fine product that will repair cracked stocks if you can get into the crack. Don't opt for cheap epoxies that you may find in hardware stores. Get the Brownell's AcraGlas. It is worth the extra trouble. They even make stains to color it to match yor stock...........Mike
  2. Don't know how it would look, but a very nice scout scope mount can be made by modifying the rear sight base on the 96 Mauser. Nothing is added, but the top of the rear sight base in flattened into one straight plane. Then the outside top is beveled down on both sides to creat the weaver style rail. Reduce the over width a tiny bit across the top. Cut the notches through the top of the mount for the ring bolts and you're done except for finishing the white steel that was exposed. I did it all with files and a grinder. I removed my rear sight base from my rifle and then shaped it, but I wish I had just left it on the barrel and done the work. If you have access to a mill it should be easy. If it doesn't look right just remove it and install something different and you still have a neat scout mount to fit a future project utilizing a small ring barrel..........Mike
  3. I have always wondered if it would be possible to successfully sue those who told told the news media how many firearms you have in your home. If the police removed the firearms then it should be a non-story anyway because the firearms are no longer stored there. Or sue the news media for making it public knowledge that you have firearms stored at your home. At least if you are not guilty of any crimes involving firearms. To me it would be not much different from the news media telling the public that you have stored jewells at your home or anything else that is popular to steal in home break-ins. We joke sometimes that we'd like to post signs that anti-gun neighbors have no guns for defense. I'll bet they'd successfully sue claiming that making the knowlege public led to their home being invaded..........Mike
  4. Since you've said ''(shotguns, muzzle loaders, and archery only)'' I assume this issue mainly deals with deer hunters. You might want to figure the ballistics on the street missles these same morons pilot, at legal speed limits, to get to the local McDonalds. At illegal speeds a motor vehicle only produces more impressive ballistics and enters the realm of weapon of mass destruction. McDonalds is the place they tend to go to get the meat they crave without having to face the emotional moral implications that hunting raises in them. Of course they will fall back to the position that it is the irresponsible hunter they fear, but statistics will clearly show it is the motor vehicles on public property that are the main killers and mammers of the citizenry. Besides, the meat you harvest on county property is healthier for you.....and them, than their favorite suppliers of meat. Though I will have to admit that the golden arches are a much easier target to hit than a cagey buck.......Mike
  5. I suppose a brass bolt handle could be fabricated, then drilled and tapped down through it's length for a threaded steel underfame. The steel underframe could then be welded to the bolt root, with that weld dressed down neatly into a shallow step. The brass bolt handle would then be threaded onto the underframe. Then only a small amount of brazing would need to be added to seal the deal at the root. Of course the brass alloy used in the bolt would need to closely match the brazing rod being used. I realize this is simply a cosmetic effect, and that taken over-all it would be weaker than a conventional welded steel bolt handle. Still if the layer of brazing was kept thin there should be sufficint steel and weld underneath for adequate strength. I guess other alloys could be substituted for brass, like german silver, or even high tin content silver solder, but that effort would lose the striking two tone effect and not be as durable as brass I believe. A brasss bolt handle could be engraved or acid etched and silver solder added in these areas. Once the solder was dressed down it could create some nice two tone patterns in the handle surface. Art or initials come to mind that might look much like wire inlays. Pretty labor intensive....huh? These ideas came from a young mind and now that mind is 58. Sounds like a lot of work now, but some of you guys seem to thrive on that.........Mike PS....I just noticed this from a thread on another site. ____________________________________________________________________ ''I'm in the process of getting a Greek M-S 1903/14 "1930 System" rifle. It's a parts gun, but the bore is very nice. The previous owner decided to gild the stock furniture, triggerguard and bolt handle with brass! It's on there pretty good. How can I bet get that crud off of there?'' ____________________________________________________________________ Apparently not everyone likes brass bolt handles and trigger guards. ha ha He'd better hope this is just plating of some kind.
  6. What I am attempting to describe is welding on a steel bolt handle that is undersized in girth onto the bolt. Then dressing the root and leaving a nice step down at the root. Taking an oxy/acetelene torch and applying (melting) brazing rod all over the surface of the undersized steel bolt handle in effect leaving a relatively thin brass shell over the steel that is bonded (brazed) to the steel. Then finish contouring the bolt handle and eventually polishing to a pleasing shine as you would a steel bolt handle. When the brass is dressed down and finished to the level of the root it should leave a neat line at the step where the steel in the root stops and the brass in the bolt handle begins. I have seen aged brass in different applications on firarms that I find pleasing after the gaudy shine of the brass is gone. My only reason for finishing to a shine in the first place would be to get a finish that would feel as good as a properly finished steel bolt handle would in the hand. I hope this clarifies what I am trying to ask. This look would not be everyones cup of tea I'm sure, but I think a two tone bolt might look nice especially when the brass was aged through use or was artifically aged.........Mike
  7. I have seen hand tools that have brass handles. People have laid brazing rod onto broken handles and then ground to final dimensions. Most of these efforts look crude at best, but serves the prupose well. I have wondered for some time about a bolt handle done the same way. I fabricated a beefy butter knife bolt handle out of yellow brass about 35 years ago, but never tried to use it. I am curious if anyone has ever successfully bent a bolt handle or welded on a steel under frame for strength, for building up a layer of brazing on top of it. Unless the pin holes I usually observe with heavily brazed handles are a given it seems to me that a nice looking bolt handle might be fabricated using this method. I know it would require handling the heat, and that the look of it might not be everyones cup of tea, but I'm just curious if anyone has any experience in trying to use this technique in the past?..........Mike
  8. I've been carrying a Glock 21 for around 13 years now. I carry it in a belly band most of the time, but sometimes in a polymer Glock sport holster. I need to get a new set of nite-sites as my first set of Meprolite sights are getting dim now. I carry with an after-market trigger blocking safety installed. I love it because it is low maintance and has never rusted despite many drenchings in the creek and gallons of sweat. I have fired over 13,000 lead bullets through mine with no problems. When I cast I drop the bullets from the mold into a 5 gallon bucket of water and lube with Lee Liquid Alox. I have used several thousand Valiant brand cast bullets also. I don't have a leading problem. I can pull most of the lead out with a rolled up 8 1/2''x11'' paper target which always amazes my shooting buddy. I've run 255 grain lead bullets up to 980 fps, but accuracy suffers and it did bulge the bases some. I've run 61 grain handloaded jacketed bullets to over 1900 fps, and Magsafe's 66 grain SWAT load to over 2100 fps. Neither of these were great on accuracy, but they'll turn a 3 liter bottle of water inside out. Actually I believe the Glock 21 runs best with standard pressure ammunition at a velocity near 850 fps. I carry 230 grain HydraShok loads because it is great ammo and it is commonly available commercial ammunition. I practice with the Lee cast lead TL-252-230-TC bullet at 850 fps. The 200 grain Lee tumble lube bullet gives the best accuracy in the Glock 21 that I have seen. I use WWC military brass exclusively. I have heard all the horror stories about Glock pistols and cast lead bullets. The 45 ACP runs at a considerably lower pressure than other calibers available in Glock pistols and I have never had a problem with either cast or jacketed bullets in my pistol. I use WIN231 exclusively now, but have tried several other powders in the past. None have proved as successful as 231 in my 21.......Mike
  9. I think it would be neat to answer ''why it's a Remington sir'' when asked by the rifle range aristocracy ''what the heck is that thing?''. Most haven't a clue that Mosin Nagants were actually issued to our own military personel. Maybe it's just me, but I would like to have one Mosin Nagant stamped with a Remington logo. If it was rebarreled, took 308 dia. bullets and shot very accurately, that would be fine too. Then I would say I had to replace the Remington barrel because I wanted more accuracy. A Finned trigger or equivelent, a receiver mounted peep sight, ghost ring or side mounted scope mount so the Remington logo was still visible......now that would be the berries........Mike
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