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tackleberry

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About tackleberry

  • Birthday 02/27/1952

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    dberry1052

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  1. whe you shoot are resting on the barrel? afree floated barrel should be supported under the stock..it can make a huge difference if you happen to rest on the barell...
  2. checking it with the extractor in place will work as long as you engage the extractor onto the headspace gage. I also cut one too deep once when i got over vigorous right near the end, and I do not have a lathe, so yep, had to use another barrel. I was able to sell the other one on Ebay.
  3. I highly recommend Brownells Oxpho blue (creme) It is very forgiving of oils on the metal, although I try to clean the metal very well with lacquer thinner or alcohol. I apply with 5-0 steel wool.....and keep applying it over and over until I get the depth I want. Then the special trick...find some of those old brown handtowels you used to get in school...the really rough paper ones. When you get the blue the depth you want, spray oil on the metal and rub down the metal with the paper towels.. Brilliant!!! if you are touching up a restoration, the above will do. A complete reblue will work good too. The 5-0 steel wool will hlp you get and even coatt hat blends together. This technique will also work with other brands of blueing, but I like the creme blueing since It doesnt run.
  4. tackleberry

    Gew 71/84?

    for any of you who did buy some of those SOG 71/84's, I am trying to complete one now. I have everything except the forward barrel band, wedge and keep screw. I could use the forward end of a stock too (from the second band forward).. contact me at dberry1052@aol.com if you can help me out Dave
  5. My undersanding is that you can resize 7mm Mag brass to use as .308 Norma Mag..I have tried it, it works.I have .308 Norma Mag dies and ran a 7mm Mag case through. The first one, I split the case neck, but then I extra lubricated the neck inside and out and it went through just fine. I think any other differences will fireform out. Neck length may have to be adjusted later.. amazing how much once fired 7MM brass is left at the range. I now have 40 rounds and building. I am planning a Magnum myself on either (1) Enfield Model 1914 action, or (2) a 1903 Springfield action Dave
  6. Sweet rifle!!!!! I built one this summer. If you want to read something illuminating, read the Chuck Hawks comparison of the .338-06 and the .35 Whelen.. This is an astounding cartridge really and so affordable in alot of ways: you can built it on a standard Mauser Action, use a standard 98 k Bolt, and the only concessionI did was use a magazine which gave me a full 3.4.inches in the well. I applaud the work you did, real pretty stock work there. I did mine from rough Boyd's stock. Also what you see is all cold blueing str8 from Brownell's (except for the triggerguard). I understand there is such a thing as a 180 grain bullet for .338, but I cannot locate any. I did make a mistake by not putting a bigger and better recoil pad on my rifle. Dave
  7. .308 Norma Mag..great caliber...does dang near everything a 300 Win Mag will do but will do it in a 30-06 length action...bolt face will have to be opened a little and a commercial magazine that gives you a full 3.4 inches, but otherwise, it'll all fit. I believe also you can take a .30-06 barrel and ream it to .308 Norma Mag. Dave
  8. I heard about it in the H+R handi rifle forum over at Graybeards...its real easy to do, and pretty forgiving. IT's just a base coat of what ever color you want, then spray on the webbing in sort of a random way, either sparse or heavier...the more you spray the more the openings get filled. Then I top coat it with satin Poly. Check out these other photos...
  9. Great looking .338-06 there...I used a Husquvarna 98 long action for mine, because it was easy to find a A&B barrel for it without threading a barrel blank. I did swap out the triggerguard on mine to get a full 3.4 inch magazne so I would not have to worry so much about bullet seating. Mine feeds great, shoots great and kicks like a mule, and I will be adding a little better recoil pad on it then Boyd's supplies. I'm really happy with the way mine turned out and we both have a lot of gun which we can shoot certainly cheaper than a belted magnum, when in fact what we have is pretty much a magnum Dave
  10. /Ting that I need, I will handle the smaller details myself. If you've messed with Enfields, what was your experience and what advice could you share? Thanks! Jason Jason, I'd be interested in any thing you find out. I have a P14 action and bolt that was contoured (somewhat) and drilled for mounts by J&G in Arizona. I have a long magazine for it and a straightened guard also for it. I need to recontour the rear receiver (it's flat now with a "hole", which I may or may not need to fill. My plan is to barrel it in .30-06 if I can find a decent barrel. Then, rechamber it to .308 Norma Mag (basically .30-338 magnum)(I already have the finisher reamer) . My understanding is that this cartridge is about the same length as the .30-06 and that it was common in the 50's (before Winchester introduced the .300 Win Mag) for people to ream their .30-06 chambers for .308 Norma Mag. The Norma mag essentially gives you .300 win mag ballistics without the extra case lenght. I have an old Herters Stock for it that looks like it might be Honduran Mahagony. Anyone with a .30-06 barrel threaded for the P17/P14? Dave
  11. nice touch on the Swede cocking piece, and to think I threw mine out....some of us dont have any imagination I guess...I'll remember that next time,,,, here is my Swede 1941 Husqe Model 38.....
  12. No, the 93 handle i bought on Fleabay before they got stupid, the others I had done by gunsmith named Jack Hamrick who advertises services on Ebay. He is very good and turnaround is under three weeks. They are forged handles and he completely polishes the bolt as well for about $50.00. Now I've been very busy getting these three to shoot properly, sighting them in and doing some fine tuning. The .338-06 is a real barnbuster and shot great right away (and kicks very hard!!) the 7mm shoot very well and the .257 does also. However it's been stringing groups so I've got a bedding problem or an ammo question. Dave
  13. Here are some photos of three rifles I built this summer. One is built on a Husquevarna 98 action, rebarrelled into A&B .338-06 with a new trigger guard and magazine to give me a full 3.4 Inch magazine. That is a Boyd's JRS stock, that I finished. A&B barrel shortened to 22" and crowned. Timmney trigger with side safety. The other (green one) is a Yugo 24/48 with a Boyds stock that I camo painted with Krylon and Krylon webbing paint. Bolt handle forged by Jack Hamrick. Bold trigger with Dayton-Traister low swing safety in .257 Roberts. Adams and Bennet barrel, shortened to 22". Third is a Turk 93 action in 7mm x57 with A&B barrel. That is an old Fajen stock. Commercial shroud but using a standard striker to get necessary firing pin fall. Timmney Trigger with side safety. Stock finish is 8 coats of Minwax poly. I perefer true oil spray but until they can get their SHIITE together and made an aerosol that doesnt clog I'll use the minwax. I shot it in satin sheen. Dave
  14. I actually did draw file mine down. Of course the barrel had been removed which made it a lot easier. The forward ring is not that tough, as it is somewhat thin. Dave
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