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slseacrist

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About slseacrist

  • Birthday 11/22/1978

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Sac. Ca.
  • Interests
    customizing firearms

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  1. OK Boys The reveres thread is intended to allow for the barrel be tightened after wear occurs. To hold the spacer for moving, I plan to put a small set screw BDC. Then when wear adjustment is needed you looses the set screw turn the spacer enough so the go and no go will fill properly. And re tighten. As for the forearm, I want to use a latch the comes on the 99 savage and modifyit to a strait line use. The latch will pulls a pin out of the butt stock and allows the barrel to rotate 1/3 a degree. More to come soon .... I hope. Scott
  2. Ok after getting a little push from Devo and my wife throwing a baby shower, meant I was "forced" to spend all of Saturday afternoon in the shop. Needless to say I put up a great fight. So I got a lot done and was able to spend a couple of hour on the takedown project. So hear is a recap of what I have done so fair. I removed all the threads for the action, then recut left hand threads (18tpi in the action). So it would be opposite of the forces placed on the action with the removal and replacement of the barrel. Next I cut threads on the out side of blank. In the spacer standard small ring threads were cut. After that I moved to the mill and set the blank on the rotary table. I cut the extremes of each cutout. Then I step drilled, 2.5 deg at a time the spaces between. I was glad I had power feed on my Z axis. Last I parted off the needed amount. The trouble came when I tried to screw the spacer in. I had made a close tight fit and cut my handle off. So now I have to make a tool to screw it in. Next I am going make some test blanks to make sure that the threads will line up properly when they are removed. Then I am going to make cut the threads on the 30 cal barrel. Chamber in 30-06 and crank it up to the highest chamber pressure possible. Then strap it to a board and give it a test fire by string. Because this is an untested system I think this is prudent. Comments always welcome SS
  3. Unfortunately almost nothing. The last thing I did was try to cut out the thread on the action. I learned that the jig I had build over stressing my rotary table. Solution, buy a high grade table, or redevelop the process. As of right now I am going to try my double female fitting approach (explained above). I should have more time in the next couple of months to get back to work. My many reason for so little progress is my MAIN job is as a Auto and Robotics teacher at a High school. Cal. has a big push to bring more Industrial Tech Classes back to main stream public schools. I have wanted to start a CNC machining class for quiet a while. So I want to just on the money wagon the state is pushing, so for the last three month I have been working on a $250,000 grant to start a full CNC machining course. Between writing the grant, making contacts with local machine shops and supplies, and all my other duties, my own shop has gather a nice collection of dust. Fortunately the grant was submitting two weeks ago, I spent spring break in Hawaii, and now I can get back to my own shop. I better one of my clients is screaming for me to get his stock done. I have been so busy that I have not been able to hand around the board much either SS
  4. I would have to agree with, scott63. Work sometimes takes me to Yuba City. I stopped by recently and bought a stock for my takedown project. The owner, operator seemed nice and willing to show me around. He let me have free range on the racks. I was happy with what they had, but then again I was shopping in person. It seemed to me that they cater to full service jobs. He had a crew of people working in inletting guns. I have ordered form Richards, but my experience is jaded, I have received some stock I though were not the quality I ordered, but others were to be lower quality and came a much higher grade. IMHO. Thus I will be back to GAG in person to get some of the stocks. Truly I want to bring stock making in house. After I finish my Octagon barrel machine, I have been working out ideas for a duplicator. Thus my long term plans are to buy unturned blanks for Calico and make my own. We will have to see if this is more then a pipe dream. SS
  5. Thank you for all your comments. I redid my calculation and I will be running one more test, to make sure that the 60 deg slices are truly 60 deg. Then onto the really thing. tinkerfive I think I agree with you, that I made a mistake when laying out the work. My concern is that the action will become tight (face crushes against the shoulder) at a different point after the all the threads are removed. I think that I was out thinking the problem. I was worried about the friction between the threads. When in reality you are correct the shoulder is what stops rotation. I think that by reversing my operation, action first then barrel. This will be a much more precise method. The key issue is, that the thread that remain in the action completely lock up with the remaining thread on the barrel. On my test the thread over rotated so about 15 % of the thread was not locked up with the threads that remained. strait shooter The ratchet idea is a good one. I am still bouncing ideas around in my head for the locking method. One idea was to make linkage that would use a hinged for plate, but I think that is to complicated for proto type. Most likely I will use a simple method like browning did on their 22 auto. As for the issue of wear. I like all of the ideas. Two spring seem to be the best idea, that coupled with the ratchet idea, may work out. My other idea to compensate for wear is.... This may be to complicated to express it in text format. On the barrel I would cut full threads that are say .125 (what every I can get way with for cal. and action type) smaller then the major dia of the action threads. Then thread the barrel to any TPI, most like a high TPI, say 20 or more. Then make a adapter, similar in idea to a Female Female pipe fitting. This would thread on the barrel ( with full threads) On the outside of the adapter would be the threads to match the Action, cut in the same manner as about. The adapter would be held in place with a setscrew or silver sotter. As the wear increased, the adapter would be screwed out maintaining headspace and shoulder lockup. This would require a lot of machine time, but I think might fix the wear problem. Anyways, comments? PS AzRednek, I wish you new how much they wanted for a prop. I have considered selling this gun off when it is complete and proven to be a worthy design. PPS strait shooter Northern CA????
  6. Well after being laid up all last week with that bug going around I got some shop time this afternoon. First I made a test action. I mounted in on the mill and set about removing the threads. I had done some calculations a few weeks ago about how much angle to remove. Using three-week-old calculation was my mistake. I over cut the angle so the action threads are slightly undersized in comparison to the threads on the barrel. Fortunately I only need to turn my test over for another go. Anyway the process clearly works, the two lock up great. Second problem is the barrel over rotates by about a 15%. I should have figured on that, considering about half the threads are now gone. So as a result of my test I have leaned this. First, remove the thread for the action. Second, thread the barrel and fit it to the action mark BDC. Mounted it on mill, compensating for the 15%. Remove the threads, Remount in lathe, check for proper alignment, set back thread if necessary and chamber. The only major issue I see with this method is that I have to hit the chamber right the first time. Comments, thoughts, anything I have overlooked?
  7. I use a spider on one end. I have a bunch of .25 brass rod cut to about .5 length. I clamp them between the chuck and the barrel. Then give a little but leave no marks, (well almost). It can be a bit tricky, trying to get them all lined up. You really need another hand. I have never had a problem with this setup. Of course taking Doble Troble small cuts advice. BTW I also use a four-jaw chuck, but I tend to always use a four-jaw chuch. Good Luck. Slseacrist
  8. Looks like a great job. You should be proud. Your last close up pic, is blurry, but it looks as if it the bluing has a plum color. If that is so… I had the same problem on a extractor I blued for my father. I found this info. http://www.e-gunparts.com/forum/searchread...47576&cat=7 on it. But I did not use it. After all, my dad turned out to like the plum extractor. BTW Handy tool, I have used the extension, but never took it one step further to make the handle. I think I will find an old socket tomorrow and whip one up. thanks. SlSeacrist
  9. thanks for the great response tinkerfive: I was thinking of 250-3000, 257 rob. or 308. I do have a couple of turk 03's. And I was considering using it. Fortunately they both have the same size threads. kenak2: wear is something that I have though about. My first question is how much wear should I expect. Many of these rifles have already been used for thousand if not hundreds of thousand of rounds, and though they have wear, many still work and are within expectable specs. As of right now my thoughts were to make spacers at half and all (-.001) of the difference between the go and no. Cut the chamber tight. Then these would be sottered onto the front shoulder as the wear point is approached. After the second one was added, the barrel would be set back one full turn and chamber re-cut I guess that I really do not think that a gun of this type will ever get enough wear. Even if used every weekend, it would take close to 20 year to go though a 1000 cycles. I would like your continued thoughts; I am overlooking a major issue. strait shooter: If you ever get access to a camera I would love to see your project. The evolution of this project is to eventually make a three barrel set, on a different action, in 250-3000, 308 and 358 Win ( or maybe the new federal round, but I need to do more research on it) roscoedoh: I will look forward to seeing the pics of the Dakota action. I new of this action, but never have seen how it works. It sound like I may want to revaluate by project. Machine time is not a concern, but making a great, esthetic, functional peace of art is. Thank for the comment, again. I will keep you all posted of the progress. SS
  10. So while I wait for a barrel for my Montana Rifle Comp. 300 Wby project. I though I would get started on trying to make a takedown 98. So fair I have the jigs made and have cut a practice barrel. I am now ready to cut the action, but I am going to make a blank before I ruin a perfectly good action. Hear is how it has gone so far. Cutting barrel holding jig (before milling was started) Starting to remove unwanted threads Jig Finished and ready to work on threads Milling the threads Finish practice barrel, next time I have to cut a few thousand deeper, the bottom of the thread just barely show up. Nothing a little time with a file would not fix though. The Jig to hold the action for milling out the threads. So I am looking for comments. My greatest concern is that it will not stay together with over 50 % of the threads removed (my Calulation are about 56%, If I did it right). I do not plan to use high pressure load. I also plan on using a Turk, so I have though of removingthe exsiting threads and recutting them with more threads per inch. If so I would consider using a acme or other thread type. Thoughts? Thanks SS
  11. Take Two. I just go back for the range again. This time I am much happier. After another 5 rounds or so I got it to produce. Considering last week’s five feet low performance, three under the scope is nothing to be ashamed of. With the last three round I had on hand, i got two to touch and the third with in half inch. I think I can bring it in tighter with some work on the reloading bench and more favorable conditions. 14 degrees and the clothing required does not make optimal shooting conditions. Especially for a Cal. boy use to shooting in condition that make you dream of 14-degree weather. Anyways I am happy with its performance and esthetics. It will be delivered at the end of the month. On to my next project, takedown 98. SS
  12. I got a few hours in the shop today and started looking at the problem. It looks as if i just had the wrong mounts on the gun. They are Buehler rings mounts and some were I I though I was told the H2 were the same as 98s and the F's (H2, 98 and F are marked to tell what type). So I got out a new pair of F (for FN Mauser) and tool some measurement. It look as if they have the same characteristics, except that the rear mount on the H2 is .1 lower then the F. This would see to explain the situation, as the gun was shooting low. The scope appears to be fine. So I will be back to the range with weekend. Hopeful will better success.
  13. Rang Report. I was able to get down to the ranch over the weekend. First couple of dozen shots out of the 220 Swift, 3400 fps, not bad to start. As for hitting the target Big problems! The gun was shooting over 5 feet low at 120 yards. (We shoot across our pound, that’s why the strange distance). After maxing the scope adjustment, we were with in 6 inches, but clearly something is wrong with the scope or mounts. I have not had a chance to look closely at it. I hope it is something like, I have two different ring heights or something to do with the bases. The scope is a Leopold gold ring so if it defective, I can always return it. Anyone every had a similar problem All the other guns I have build have always been right on the paper with their first shoots. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. SS
  14. Looks Great. I too want to know about the checkering. One of my New Years Resolution for 08’ will be to learn to checker. 338-06 is a great round, I too would like one. Good luck with it next hunting season. SS
  15. Thanks for all the positive feed back. It makes all the work seem worthwhile. I showed the gun to my cousin over Christmas. He is really excided to shoot it and get his paws on it permanently. We are going to our hunting ranch on the 6 to put it through its paces. I will post the results. SS
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