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Heat Treating And Removing Crest Questions


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#1 mr fixit

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Posted 24 October 2009 - 09:15 PM

First, I've decided on the next project. I have been waffling back and forth over which receiver to use, between the Yugo 24/47 I currently have, and a Swede which I do not have. I'm going to use the Yugo and make it the best I can.

My questions, based on that plan are about cleaning the receiver. I am confused by various threads in the archives and forum in general. So I ask plainly what is the "best" plan.

The action is "pure", never sporterized. I will remove the charger hump, drill and tap, lap the bolt lugs, weld on a new butter knife bolt handle, re-barrel to 6.5x55, new safety and floor plate release. All of this will be put into a full stock "Mannlicher" style.

When I clean the outer receiver, I may or may not remove the crest. I may or may not remove the side rail markings. Will I need to have the receiver re-heat treated? Will removing the crest/side rail markings or leaving it affect that need?

What would cause a receiver to need re heat treating? How does the re treating affect rust bluing?

Scott

#2 z1r

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Posted 24 October 2009 - 09:40 PM

Lapping the lugs will affect the need for HT much more than will removing a crest.

I just about finished up a 24/47 in 6.5x55 tonight. After truing and lightlylapping the lugs it is good to go.

HT will not affect rust bluing except that any blue on the receiver at the time it is HT'd will be gone when you get it back. HT does not cause it to be more difficult to blue. You're likely to run into more problems from the welding rod that HT.

#3 mr fixit

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Posted 24 October 2009 - 10:12 PM

Lapping the lugs will affect the need for HT much more than will removing a crest.

I just about finished up a 24/47 in 6.5x55 tonight. After truing and lightlylapping the lugs it is good to go.

HT will not affect rust bluing except that any blue on the receiver at the time it is HT'd will be gone when you get it back. HT does not cause it to be more difficult to blue. You're likely to run into more problems from the welding rod that HT.



Ok, thanks! Lets define "Lightly lapping" the lugs. Going from 50% to 90% contact?

What would too much lapping be? Just trying to get a feel for when it needs to be treated.

Scott

#4 z1r

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Posted 24 October 2009 - 11:40 PM

Ok, thanks! Lets define "Lightly lapping" the lugs. Going from 50% to 90% contact?

What would too much lapping be? Just trying to get a feel for when it needs to be treated.

Scott


The percent of contact is meaningless. How much material you have to remove in order to get the level of contact you want is what is important. The problem with lapping Mauser lugs is that you don't know how deep the casehardening is. Is it .005" deep, .010", .020"? who knows. Assuming it's .010" and you remove .001" to get 90% contact, well, you've just removed 10% of the case depth. Some actions will achieve 90% with little effort, some will require tremndous effort just to get both lugs touching at the same time. All depends on the action you start with.

If you want to build a bench gun by treating it as if it's a Rem 700, then I'd suggest you do all the machining, truing, etc., first, the have it HT.

#5 mr fixit

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Posted 27 October 2009 - 07:35 PM

ZR1, I sent an email. Wondering about how to get a receiver treated. Contact them directly, or make arrangements with you?

Mr Fixit

#6 z1r

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Posted 27 October 2009 - 09:04 PM

Hi Scott,

I sent you a reply yesterday. I just re-sent it. Let me know if you get it, if not, I'll PM you here.

#7 mr fixit

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Posted 28 October 2009 - 10:46 AM

Hi Scott,

I sent you a reply yesterday. I just re-sent it. Let me know if you get it, if not, I'll PM you here.


Got it and replied




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