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Westcliffe01

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About Westcliffe01

  • Birthday 05/17/1968

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    SE Michigan
  • Interests
    Self sufficiency, marksmanship, home machine shop, modest gun smithing projects

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  1. I have made up my mind already. It is Custer County Colorado. Very small (population wise) but these people have their heads screwed on and are resisting expansion of government. http://www.custercountygov.com/ Check out the "assessor" link in the menu of the left. Compare the property tax to where you like now. Check out their "Home Owners packet" a guide to living in the western US and what to expect http://www.custercountygov.com/index.php?pg=informational_docs The valley base is at 7500 ft. So first of all there is low humidity. Also a vastly reduced number of bugs compared to the plains. Large number of sunny days year round, so you can build a passive solar house to keep your utility bills low year round. No need for air conditioning, just need ventilation during the summer days. Temperature drops sharply at night. Yes it snows, but after a couple of days of snow the sun comes back out and a week later the snow is gone. This does not hold for areas over 10k ft where the snowpack builds all winter. There are different zones, but most of the affordable land is in zone 2. This has a minimum lot size of 35 acres. Many lots this size are available for around $22-26k, undeveloped, within some of the larger sub divisions. It is important to read the covenants of the subdivisions. Some impose time limits on building that may not be acceptable and are more or less restrictive about what one can do. The land that interests me has relatively few restrictions, is relatively isolated, has no utilities and a very low population density. The more remote, the cheaper and wilder the land typically is. In some places, you may get around better on horseback than with the road system.
  2. I'm assuming you mean in Florida ? If not, then I have a recommendation.
  3. http://www.opticsplanet.net/egw-mauser-98-picatinny-rail-scope-mount-large-ring.html I am wanting a 1 piece steel scope base and noticed that EGW has undrilled 1 piece mounts for the Mauser 98. The Yugo 24 has a slightly shorter receiver, but I imagine that the receiver profile at the front and rear is similar ? I was wanting to go with a 20MOA rail if that makes any difference (I suppose the top and bottom surfaces are at an angle to each other...). Any comments ?
  4. Try to find a users manual for your door opener online. They should identify the type of opener used, they you can go to lowes/Home depot and get a replacement. Then there will be a procedure whereby you put the door opener itself into "learn mode" and depress the new "clicker" to teach it the new code. Then you should be good to go. If you need multiple clickers, get them at the same time.
  5. Well, after what felt like an eternity, the barrel from Wideners ($55 new M48 Yugoslavian 8x57 barrel) was dropped off by UPS today. I soaked it in some hot soapy water to soften the preservative and get the paper remnants off it. Then scrubbed out the bore with a nylon brush and some straight liquid laundry detergent. Rinsed it in more hot water and worked the grease out the threads. Then ran some patches through the barrel with Hoppes #9 and followed with some dry patches. So I have the following observations: 1) The outside of the barrel looks like it was chrome plated, although there are small patches where there appears to be no plating ? 2) The muzzle is pretty dinged up. The factory must ship them in racks in a wooden crate and it looks like they got handled quite a lot in the last 30-50 years... 3) The bore is shiny as heck. Looks brighter than the bore that came on my Remington 700 classic. Are the bores/chambers on these chrome plated ? 4) There was a nice ring about 1/2" behind the muzzle where it had been supported in a steady rest, I am guessing while the muzzle was crowned ? 5) There is no extractor relief cut. So there are a few things to do Get the old barrel off Turn on the new barrel and see how the headspace is looking (will need a go gauge at least) If needed, fix the head space by shaving the shoulder (s). Hope it does not come up short... Mark and cut the extractor clearance (will look at old barrel to see how this was done) Cut a recessed crown Re-profile the barrel to give it a continuous taper or a double taper removing the series of steps (aesthetics) prep and fit a one piece steel optics rail (Warne usually) Parkerize the barrel and action and miscellaneous bottom metal (3rd party vendor) It looks like I may have identified a type 7 FFL in Brooklyn that I can work with on anything that I can't handle.
  6. Perhaps the wrong forum, but does anyone know whether these actions are worth anything ? They are listed as being Remington 1903 A3 receivers. There is just the receiver with the bolt body and the extractor ring. I figure one needs the entire striker assy (where to find it ?), the hood and safety and extractor. Any comments on quality and ruggedness ? Run the other way. $130 at Aim Surplus. They are also listed as Smith Carona receivers.
  7. Buy a Ruger M77, perhaps a used one ? Mauser type action from the factory, one of the calibers is 223. About $550 on Gunbroker ?
  8. I only have 2 things against those Midway 243 barrels: 1 being that they are not stainless and 2 being that they have the old 1:10 twist and thus are not fit for the high BC bullets obtainable today. The Savage is a 1:9.25 and the drop in savage barrels are available in 1:8. Of course the lapped 1:8 match barrels cost about as much as the basic rifle, but still cheaper than going the Mauser route which requires a bunch of smithing in addition to the barrel itself. I think I will re-crown the M48 barrel and re-work the bolt as explained here Swedish method This method may not be so pleasing to look at but will fit within a reasonable budget, given I am keeping everything 8mm.
  9. I thought that the M24/47's if they had the barrel replaced at the arsenal, would have been fitted with these exact barrels. I have one on order and have been waiting a couple of weeks already and not even a shipping notification yet. God help us after the election... Bought a CZ 512 in 22WMR from Buds and waited nearly a month before I saw it. The supply side of things is under a lot of pressure from panicky buyers right now..
  10. From the Wideners website: Yugo M48 Barrel "BBLM48 Brand New Yugo M48 barrel $55.00 each We just acquired a limited number of BRAND NEW, NEVER USED OR INSTALLED, M48 Yugo Mauser barrels. These barrels are straight from the Zastava factory and have never been used. They are new in the heavy cosmoline and wrapper. They are not blued or parkerized. It is the last of them so take advantage now. They DO NOT come with sights and these are not tear downs or parts. They are authentic, brand new M48 replacement barrels. The barrel length is 22'. " So theoretically, other than the extractor cut and possible chamber depth adjustment, (and bluing) these should be good to go ?
  11. Don, second message on its way through the email link on your profile.
  12. I have a Rem 700 "Classic" in 8mm Mauser, hence I thought I would try something different. But with the cost and lead times, unfortunately it is going to be a lot simpler / more cost effective doing a savage drop in barrel (if needed). I should get the Wideners "new" Yugo barrel this week, and I think particularly if I have a recessed target crown put on it (the factory crowns are easily damaged) it should shoot better than the worn out and pitted barrel I have now. Sad to say that this was entirely the fault of the precious owner, for shooting corrosive ammo and never cleaning the gun. The outside is actually not in bad shape, just the bore that is a mess.
  13. Don, I tried to contact you through your profile, don't know if it worked. I got a lead time from ER Shaw this morning - 16-20 weeks --- Yeoww.. I may do this a different way and just fit a replacement 8mm barrel on this action with some aftermarket sights. I have one of the "in the white" barrels on the way from Wideners for $55. I would still be interested in the bolt job with you, and fitting one of the low profile safeties. And all the work to remove, refit and chamber the replacement of course.. Please send me a PM regarding how to get this going. I think I will go with a Savage Edge / Axis in stainless in 243 Win. I can try it as is to see how it shoots, and then look at a drop in barrel from several of the makers out there if it is not good enough. Amazing that that rifle in stainless is just over $300.
  14. I know that it has been a long time since anyone contributed to this thread, but I thought that passivation needs to be mentioned. In any critical application (and at any mill that produces stainless steel) they need a fast and reliable way to remove undesirable contaminants so that the surface will not show staining "in the field". That is accomplished by passivation. Basically a very good degreasing, rinse, then all contaminants are removed with an acid etch. This website affers some commentary on stainless steel passivation: http://www.finishing.com/466/18.shtml Very important - the stainless part should remain completely oil free for at least a few hours, to allow the natural chromium oxide layer to re-develop. Protecting it from oxidation too soon is inviting future problems. Quote below: Passivating Stainless Steel with Citric Acid +++++++ What are the risks of using Citric acid rather than Nitric acid on Stainless Steel manufactured products? Oxidation was mentioned? Also does Citric Acid remove less than Nitric Acid? Would a fall out occur because of this? Ellyce Chrisbaie QC Manager - Westwood, Massachusetts First of two simultaneous responses -- +++++++ Personal opinion. Citric and nitric are a "wash" on 300 series SS. On 400 series, the citric will blow nitric out of the water. That is assuming that you are using a citric from a good company and not a home brew. The major advertiser of citric at this site has a product that I like, and I am not on their payroll. James Watts - Navarre, Florida Second of two simultaneous responses -- +++++++ Passivation is the controlled "oxidation" of the nickel on the surface of stainless steel". Citric Acid removes free iron, PERIOD. Nitric Acid (and sometimes with dichromate depending on the alloy) also removes the free iron BUT then control oxidizes the surface to prevent further oxidation (unless exposed to a reducing liquid or chloride). Robert H Probert Robert H Probert Technical Services Garner, North Carolina Editor's note: Mr. Probert is the author of Aluminum How-To / Aluminio El Como +++++++ Quite the contrary, the risks are in using nitric. Safety risks, risks to surrounding equipment from fumes, risk of etching the surface of your parts. Citric removes "less" than nitric in the sense that it removes the iron only and leaves behind the chromium and other metals. This is beneficial both from a waste disposal standpoint and from a corrosion resistance standpoint, as the citric leaves a deeper chromium-enriched layer than nitric. And yes, the chrome oxide layer is formed not in the bath but in the air afterwards. This does not prevent citric from delivering equivalent or even superior corrosion resistance results. Passivation of stainless steel as defined by ASTM A967 [link is to spec at TechStreet] is the removal of the free iron from the surface, which enables the passive chrome oxide layer to form. Though yes, from a general chemist's perspective, the passivation is the formation of the unreactive oxide layer itself. Ray Kremer Stellar Solutions, Inc. McHenry, Illinois +++++++ Regarding ASTM A 967. In between "free iron from the surface --- and which enables" ALSO appears what was left out, namely "with a mild oxidant". Citric Acid is not an oxidizing agent, nitric acid at the recommended concentrations for the various alloy IS an oxidizing agent. Let's quote the whole sentence. Robert H Probert Robert H Probert Technical Services Garner, North Carolina +++++++ It's certainly not wrong to call attention to a misquote or selective quote, Robert, but after 12 years of countless postings on the subject here, I admit I too am weary of this "debate" between proponents and opponents of citric acid passivation. A decade ago I asked for references to independent studies showing that citric acid "worked", and I immediately received them. I don't feel the shoe is on their foot anymore, but on the other foot; that those who remain opposed to citric acid passivation should quote some recent independent studies showing that it wasn't a satisfactory substitution. For my part I've had too much experience with parts being destroyed in nitric acid, hazardous plant evacuations when steel parts were accidentally put into passivating tanks, and harassment from regulators with their nonsense that passivation shops are nitrate factories, to want to continue to use nitric acid for passivation unless there is actual evidence that it remains necessary. Ted Mooney, P.E. finishing.com Brick, New Jersey First of two simultaneous responses -- +++++++ Not to belabor the point with petty bickering, but while the citrate ion is not an oxidizer, hydrogen ions, and by extension every type of acid, are. Iron atoms are oxidized in order to remove them from the metal surface as iron ions, by both citric and nitric acid. The oxidation of the chromium occurs in the air later on, which is also explicitly stated in A967. Regardless of the exact mechanism, if it didn't work, people wouldn't be using it. Ray Kremer Stellar Solutions, Inc. McHenry, Illinois Second of two simultaneous responses -- +++++++ Citric acid is the reducer and promote de-passivation of the surface. Passive film formed after citric acid treatment is very thin. Further increase in thickness of such passive film take place during rinsing and drying. Such operations are hard to control. Therefore citric acid is very effective in removing free iron, but not sufficient enough in actual passivating. We recommend that after citric acid treatment stainless steel is treated in nitric acid solution or other more environmentally friendly solutions with high redox-potential in order to create thick passivating film. http://en.wikipedia....ction_potential Such film will increase corrosion resistance and reliability of corrosion protection. We have developed such passivating solution for 300-steel for food and medical industry. We also have passivating solution for 400-steel which deploy both functions removing of fee iron and passivating film formation. Anna Berkovich Russamer Lab Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania +++++++ I have been following this thread with quite a bit of interest. As we have been having the perennial problems with 416 and 440C on a very intermittent basis we were advised that citric acid may well be the way to go as the potential for attack was greatly reduced (correct me if I'm wrong). My problem is that when I read such polar views I am disinclined to investigate too much further. So, in general, are we for or against passivation with citric acid? Please give me something to go on instead of the "it works/no it doesn't" arguements. Looking forward to seeing some reasoned arguments, preferably backed up with some more literature sources. Brian Terry Aerospace - Yeovil, Somerset, UK +++++++ From my experience, Anna has presented the most accurate information. Let me just share some personal experience from a non-biased perspective. Citric acid indeed behaves differently than nitric acid in the way that it helps achieve passivation. The comparison of the resulting passivation layer thicknesses is key here. The thickness of the layer helps determine corrosion resistance. The one thing that many are overlooking is the application you are using the SS for. For many applications Citric is sufficient and the difference is negligable. However, I have first-hand experience using both citric and nitric for metal injection molded (MIM) parts, as well as some other medical device applications and nitric sometimes out-performs citric. This is especially important if cosmetic finish is a factor. It also depends on how smooth your surface is pre-passivation. Dwayne Bell - San Jose, California, USA
  15. Come on guys.... Century Arms parks their receivers with barrel and bore all the time... At least they did on my Golani/Galil and at least one other person I know... It cost me quite a bit to fix that mess and no way you send it back to those ham handed fiends to get fixed.. In addition, they head spaced by cutting back the bolt face, with the result that the extractor was no longer in the correct position and the gun wouldn't eject its brass. If that was not enough, they dremeled away parts of the rail on the bolt carrier so that the bolt carrier pops out of the rail intermittently when in the fully rearward position. What else.. Worn out folding stock knuckle, and the receiver (which they don't make themselves) is out of spec on virtually every critical dimension (which is why they resort to all the uneducated dremel work). I will NEVER buy anything they they have touched again.. The AKparts kit guns look cheap now, after my "education".
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