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Military Firearm Restoration Corner

Kyle

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  1. Cool, could you post a photo? Is it a single shot or did you manage to make shells work with the magazine and feed reliably?
  2. I'd like to attach my own sights to my Gew 88 sporter project but I don't have the skills necessary to make my own like you did and there aren't any sold for it. Do you think it would be possible to use a bubba solution and use something like an appropriately sized nut soldered on as the rear peep site?
  3. Nice looking sights. What did you do for the front sight?
  4. I'm working on a short barreled rifle project and it currently doesn't have any sights. I plan on using this rifle as a short barreled brush gun so I'd like to have sights that are quick and easy to line up and that I could make myself and solder on or something. Any ideas on how I could make and attach sights on the rifle?
  5. I'm just wondering what the advantages of a bend bolt are to a rifle with a straight bolt are. On nearly every commercial and sporter rifle I've seen the bolt is bent or curved as if to allow the mounting of a scope even if the rifle has a LER scope or iron sites. Is there some advantage to having a curved bolt rather then a straight military style one that sticks straight out? If I'm building a rifle with the intent of using either iron sites or a forward mounted scope would there be any reason for me to consider bending the bolt down or would it make more sense just to leave it as is?
  6. Kyle

    Polishing Chamber?

    The rifle is not really that bad (like some of the really stiff Mosin bolts) but I feel it could be better. Can you walk me through this process? What kind of results did you get when you used this method?
  7. Kyle

    Rem 700 Barrels

    I measured with a caliper and found that it is indeed wide enough to cut new LR mauser threads. I don't know how much extra metal there should be in the chamber area though. This particular barrel seems pretty thick (I've read that the Rem. 700 mag barrels come thicker then those in standard calibers). Even if I was to cut off the old shank and rethread for the mauser action the beginning of the barrel would still be thicker then the 30-06 stepped military barrel the action currently wears is. The barrel was cheap enough so I guess I'll give it a try, if I mess up it won't be a huge loss. Can anyone please give me the exact information on what I need to thread to in order to fit the large-ring 98 action? I do have a mauser barrel but if anyone had the exact specs already it would be easier. Thanks
  8. I have two 8x57 projects in the works but I did want to use this action to build a magnum, if for nothing else but to have one. I know barrel length can effect velocity so I'm curious which of the mentioned barrel/caliber combinations would make the most effective long range hunting gun.
  9. I'm working on a mauser project and right now I'm stuck between two different choices. I'm working on a couple different rifles but I do want one magnum for any long range hunting I may do. I'm considering both the 7mm Rem Mag and the .300 Win Mag. I already have a 7mm Rem Mag barrel that is about 23 inches long and is stainless steel but I can pick up a .300 WM barrel rather cheaply as well and sell the 7mm RM barrel. The .300 WM barrel is about 25.5 inches long and has a matte finish but both are in very good condition. I'm not sure if I should use the 7mm Rem Mag barrel or sell it and get the .300 WM barrel. I know the ballistics for long range shooting favor the 7mm RM over the .300 WM but I'm not sure how large an effect the shorter barrel will have. So what should I do to end up with the best long range hunting rifle: stick with the 7mm RM in a 23" stainless steel barrel or sell it and go with the 25" blued barrel in .300 WM? I'll probably use this rifle to hunt whitetail deer at long range and maybe some black bear but there is a chance I'll go on a trip for elk or pronghorn in the future so I'd like to have a capable rifle.
  10. Kyle

    Rem 700 Barrels

    I now know that a Rem 700 barrel can be rethreaded to fit a SR like a Turk M38 but that the threaded section can't be re-threaded to fit a LR action. My question is, why can't you just cut off the threaded section and rethread a new section to fit a large ring mauser action? Even if you lost 2" at most of barrel length you'd still have at least a 24" barrel if you started with a 26" barrel I'd imagine. Is there anything wrong with this solution or would this just need to be reamed out and then it would be ready to go on a LR mauser?
  11. Kyle

    Filling Holes?

    I plan on finishing with a tung oil based finish. I've probably try filling with dust from the stock mixed with a little wood glue. I'm thinking that because it is the same wood it will look close to the same when finished.
  12. Does anyone have methods to polish the chamber in order to make their action smoother? I'd love to end up with a very buttery action and a very smooth bolt cycle but I'd thought I'd ask before I decide to do anything that could remove material from the inside of the action.
  13. I'm working a sporterizing a military stock and I'm hoping it will look nice and not like a hack job when I finish. The rifle has a spot on the bottom of the buttstock where the sling parts originally went and I'm not sure how to fill that hole so it will look nice and blend in with the rest of the stock perfectly. Any suggestions on filling this spot so it blends in perfectly with the stock?
  14. Has anyone chambered a Mauser in 300 Weatherby Magnum? I'm thinking of building one but I'm not sure if the cartridge is to long for the 98 action.
  15. I really like what you did with the rifle. The stock looks very nice! How long is the barrel you put on it?
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