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Harrisbg

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About Harrisbg

  • Birthday 07/23/1963

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  1. That may be what I'm going to do. Someone has already filled at least one hole on the rear bridge like that. That has the difference in bluing. I have another rifle that has the oval plug. Here are some pictures.
  2. When I took the scope off that was on it, I noticed when I shouldered the rifle that the flats on the top of the bases weren't aligned to each other. Whoever had installed the scope just cranked the mounts down and pulled the scope into place. The scope was a 1970's era Redfield 3x9. I believe one mount was a 46S, and the other was a 45S. I'm not working at home, so I don't have them in front of me now. The rear mount has a very close asymmetrical screw hole spacing, with one screw through the cross slot, while the front mount has evenly spaced screw holes on either side of the cross slot. There were no shims under either mount. I'm making an assumption that when BSA sporterized these actions that they ground the rear receiver correctly. The rear bridge is where the BSA logo was placed (BSA inside a wreath, not the stacked rifles), over the tightly filled oval slot. The work is good looking. You can only see the plug because it blued to a dark blue-black, while the receiver is kind of purple blue, like an old Ruger Security-Six. If the rear bridge is correct, the front mount is slightly rotated to the left, looking from the rear. I leveled the receiver in a machine vise, and the used the flat bottom of the receiver as a reference point. I then placed small Starrett levels across the mounts. The rear mount level's bubble was in the middle, while the front mount level's bubble was off to the right, leading me to think the front mount is rotated to the left. I then installed the scope mounting screw jig. It's the type that has two thick plates along the bottom of the receiver, a machined rod that goes down the center of the action that has two stand-off bushings, and a top plate that fits to the stand-offs. This has drill bushings where the holes are to be drilled. Two long 1/4" bolts go through from top to bottom that when tightened up bring the rod to the apparent center of the action, and tighten the whole thing in place. When looking down through the holes the drill bit bushings go through, the existing holes are not centered, but 3 of 4 holes are 1/2 a #6 screw hole diameter off in different directions, both front-to-back, and side-to-side. I would like to fill the holes, and re-drill them correctly if possible. This is my first project that wasn't a straight barrel swap on a Remington 700, or re-barreling a Garand. Is tig welding the screw holes the only option I have? I bought this rifle for this project because it already had some of the work done, but it's not working out with the scope mounts. -Byron
  3. I have a BSA sporterized Model of 1917 that I am building into a 6.5-06 A.I.. After removing the .30-06 barrel, I used a scope mount drilling jig to check the holes that were already drilled in the front and rear of the receiver, and found that the holes are drilled off center. What are my options for repairing the holes, and having them re-drilled correctly? -Byron
  4. How deep should the relief cut on the barrel in front of the receiver ring be? -Byron
  5. The rifle I'm starting with was sporterized by BSA. It has the stacked arms logo on the rear receiver bridge where the sight ears used to be. The chamber closes on a No-Go gauge. Case life is very short. I've heard that these rifles were originally marketed through Herter's. Is it a good practice to magnaflux the action after removing the old barrel? There is quite a bit f conflicting information on the Model of 1917. -Byron
  6. Thanks pacrat. I appreciate the link. That is exactly what I'm looking for. I'll keep everybody posted as this project progresses. -Byron
  7. Today I talked to Pac-Nor Barrels about a pre-threaded barrel blank for a Model of 1917 Remington action that I want to build into a 6.5-'06 A.I.. I thought it would be a pretty straight forward order, but they asked me to measure the thread diameter, and the diameter of the barrel ahead of the threads to see if they need to use a larger diameter barrel blank. I don't have the barreled action in my hands, I am collecting parts while the funds are available before I dig the rifle out of storage. This is my first rebarreling project on a 1917 action. Does anyone have the dimensions handy? Thanks, Byron
  8. I wasn't a big fan of the M-N until I bought a Finnish M39 with a good bore for cheap, and found that it shot as good as I could hold it at 100 yards with the cheap Romanian ball ammo that comes in the big sardine can. Tight groups are the beer googles for me when it comes to cosmetically "interesting" looking rifles. I wonder if a cartridge like the .450 Alaskan, or something like it, based on the .348 Winchester case, would work without as many problems. Byron
  9. This rifle has a buckhorn barrel mounted rear sight, marked with the BSA stacked rifles, and a ramp front sight. The right side of the rear receiver bridge is drilled and tapped for a receiver sight. The rear receiver bridge is pretty flat where the BSA logo is, so the inside curve of a Lyman 57SME sticks out in space for about 1/16". It has a 5-groove, left hand twist barrel, but no military proofs, unless they were removed. Byron
  10. Here are pictures of the barrel proof marks, and the top of the receiver, on a BSA .30-'06 sporter that appears to be a factory sporterized rifle. What do I have? I have a few M1917 Enfield sporters of various quality, and bought this one because it was the nicest I've seen, and has a pristine looking bore. Most of the parts appear to be U.S. surplus with a polished blue finish. The bolt handle has no dogleg in it. Not apparent in the photo of the receiver top are the words "Made in England" above the ejector box. Is the load on the barrel the "proof" load? Byron
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