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Military Firearm Restoration Corner

Heat Stop Paste?


Racepres

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What secret ingredient is in it??

I have a Bolt handle that is needing to be moved straighter...just by a bit.

will a heat sink and wet shop towels be as good??

The heat will be quite aways away from the "root" of the handle...nearly to the "Ball", just need to "straighten the thing a slight Bit...

 

Thanks for any/all responses...

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When I did the 7mm Spanish Mauser, as described in my 7mm build thread, I bought some of the Brownell's Heat Stop stuff. Actually saw it in the shop refrigerator a couple days ago. I used it, it worked. Now, the secret ingredient in it? WATER. Yup, that's the secret, near as I can tell. The paste seems to be some type of clay like material, saturated with water. It stops the heat from traveling by keeping the area it is at cool as the water evaporates first. On that rifle, I cut the handle off, flipped it over, changed the shape some and welded it back on the bolt. I used the paste for the welding job, smeared around the important bits, which didn't even really get warm when I used the MIG. If you're just going to heat and bend the outer end of the handle, I think you could manage everything with lots of wet towel rags around. You could also mix up some really wet dirt and smear it too. Use a good welding tip on the acetylene torch to concentrate the heat right where you want it, so it doesn't travel as much as you're heating it.

 

Note, as you know, I am a bubba-type gunsmith, not one of the pros that hang out here.

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When I did the 7mm Spanish Mauser, as described in my 7mm build thread, I bought some of the Brownell's Heat Stop stuff. Actually saw it in the shop refrigerator a couple days ago. I used it, it worked. Now, the secret ingredient in it? WATER. Yup, that's the secret, near as I can tell. The paste seems to be some type of clay like material, saturated with water. It stops the heat from traveling by keeping the area it is at cool as the water evaporates first. On that rifle, I cut the handle off, flipped it over, changed the shape some and welded it back on the bolt. I used the paste for the welding job, smeared around the important bits, which didn't even really get warm when I used the MIG. If you're just going to heat and bend the outer end of the handle, I think you could manage everything with lots of wet towel rags around. You could also mix up some really wet dirt and smear it too. Use a good welding tip on the acetylene torch to concentrate the heat right where you want it, so it doesn't travel as much as you're heating it.

 

Note, as you know, I am a bubba-type gunsmith, not one of the pros that hang out here.

Well...from one Bubba to the next...Thanks

Yes I have a nice tip for concentrating the heat, and getting it fairly quickly.

Curious...How did the MIG job turn out??? I have heard that Stick is a better way!! No, I don't have TIG!!!

MIG seems like the easy way, if it did not give you any problems [porosity]\

 

Thanks

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I think it turned out fine. There are some pics in this thread:

 

 

 

http://www.sporterizing.com/index.php?showtopic=10935

 

I don't have any porosity issues. It cleaned up solid. I beveled and welded it on three sides with flux core wire and argon (double shielded.) I always turn the gas on with flux wire. It's there, why not use it? I didn't weld the back face so I wouldn't have to re-cut the slot at the back. It has held up, including to abuse like beating on it with a mallet because the original 1900's barrel was totally shot out and probably had enough headspace for two.

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I will try the MIG because it seems easier...

Maybe tie it together with the Boys little HF MIG, and then get after it with the Stick!!!

I have never had Headspace influence Extraction problems...Must have been something else!!

BTW My little 1916 has a very generous "Neck" area...heck fired rounds from that 1916 will not enter the Chamber of another 7X57 at the Neck...

I know it is the Neck only, because I only Neck Size!!!And...if ya "smack the bolt trying to chamber a Spent round from the 1916 you can see where it is Crimping or trying to resize the darn Neck...

That rifle gets Reformed brass from -06 or even 270, and No Neck Turning!!!!!

 

 

Edit to add;

That Piece you did on your Spanish 1916 is really well done...Very Nice, Thanks...

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Thanks. I used my little 110V Italian made HF MIG on it. After grinding a groove, I tacked it in place, then went around it one side at a time, repositioning it for each side so gravity would help me. I have stick welded things that small before, but there is a good chance I will destroy whatever I'm trying to weld with the stick on small stuff. If it is something I have fabbed en-total, then I just have to make another from scratch. But a Mauser bolt, well, I'd rather not destroy one of those. My stick welder is a 230 amp AC only Miller 220V. Since I got the MIG, I only use it for bigger stuff that absolutely positively has to stick together.

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