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Military Firearm Restoration Corner

Swede Sporter...getting Closer


scott63

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This is a swede I'm going to sporterize for my daughter in .250 savage. The bolt handle is done and the lugs are lapped. Next stop, barrel and headspace. This is the first handle I've welded and it was definitely a learning experience. I think the next bolt I do will come out quite a bit better.

I was also doing some work on a 98 bolt that someone else welded using the military ball. I thought I would try to contour it a bit, but only had files to work with. I learned two things during that little journey: 1. If I were to try to contour a bolt ball I would cut off the ball with a bit of the shaft, mount it in a lathe and do it that way. 2. Once I had the ball cut off for idea #1, I would throw it away and weld on one of the Brownells bolts. The headache isn't worth 8.95.......Scottpost-472-1169791823_thumb.jpg

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Very nice work Scott! What kind of welder did you use? Does the root of the handle have the cut-out that the shroud fits into? I'd love to see a photo of the back and hear how you dealt with that.

 

I've also considered recontouring the military gumball, and actually wasted a couple hours of my life that I'll never get back working with a half round file to get the shaft to flow into the ball in a graceful Talley-style pear shape. I ended up with an asymetrical mess. It's just too much hassle trying to keep everything round, contorting yourself as you file, and/or constantly repositioning the handle inthe vice to get a decent work angle.

 

It may be salvagable yet, but like you said, for $8.95 it's not worth my time. Still, the time is not entirely wasted. I learned something, and if anybody ever pipes up with this idea I can credibly advise them not to. Whether I'll be listened to or not is another issue!

 

Another technique I've considered but not tried is to use a torch or TIG welder to flow metal from the ball to the shaft. Basically start a weld puddle where the two meet and try to carefully work it around the circumference. It would still need cleaning up with a file, but would save labor. Anybody tried this?

 

I've got a collection of bolts and handles that I need to get after some weekend. After much gnashing of teeth considering purchasing an OxyAcetylene rig, and one failed attempt to weld a handle using my wire feed, I have decided to rent a TIG welder and crank out some work once the rest of my to-do list gets whittled down. Took me awhile to realize this option was even available. I don't know why I didn't think of it before.

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Very nice work Scott! What kind of welder did you use? Does the root of the handle have the cut-out that the shroud fits into? I'd love to see a photo of the back and hear how you dealt with that.

 

I've also considered recontouring the military gumball, and actually wasted a couple hours of my life that I'll never get back working with a half round file to get the shaft to flow into the ball in a graceful Talley-style pear shape. I ended up with an asymetrical mess. It's just too much hassle trying to keep everything round, contorting yourself as you file, and/or constantly repositioning the handle inthe vice to get a decent work angle.

 

It may be salvagable yet, but like you said, for $8.95 it's not worth my time. Still, the time is not entirely wasted. I learned something, and if anybody ever pipes up with this idea I can credibly advise them not to. Whether I'll be listened to or not is another issue!

 

Another technique I've considered but not tried is to use a torch or TIG welder to flow metal from the ball to the shaft. Basically start a weld puddle where the two meet and try to carefully work it around the circumference. It would still need cleaning up with a file, but would save labor. Anybody tried this?

 

I've got a collection of bolts and handles that I need to get after some weekend. After much gnashing of teeth considering purchasing an OxyAcetylene rig, and one failed attempt to weld a handle using my wire feed, I have decided to rent a TIG welder and crank out some work once the rest of my to-do list gets whittled down. Took me awhile to realize this option was even available. I don't know why I didn't think of it before.

 

I used a TIG welder and the Brownells 3.5 % nickel rod. Every photo I've seen of welds completed with the oxy-acet. always looked very crude in comparison to TIG welds. The friend that let me use his TIG outfit says it is because the TIG heat is very tightly concentrated, and is easier to get a nice clean bead. I'm not saying it can't be done well with the oxy, but it is beyond my abilities. Didn't try it with my wire feed cause I wasn't sure how the wire would blue.

The root does have the cut-out, I left the root just long enough, and carefully ground the bolt handle prior to welding to prevent it from interfering with the shroud. It does have a rounded "line" that the shroud butts up to, but it is slight and not visible when the shroud is in place. Even with the root at this length the handle will still just barely clear with low rings and easily clears with the medium rings. After himming and hawing about finish reaming it myself, I'm letting a friend/gunsmith do it because he has a lathe and I want it to be just right cause it is for my daughter. When I put together a .250 for myself, I'll do the finish reaming.

As for the bolt contouring, I agree with you, it is something everybody should try once. I think if you HAD to re-use a military ball the only way to go would be to cut it off and contour it in a lathe. I was able to get the area where the shaft/ball meet tapered pretty good with a 1/4 inch round file, but contouring the ball is the real headache. I haven't given up yet, but I had to leave it for a couple days to clear my head. I attached a pic of it to date, like I said it still has some work to go. Puddling the weld is a plausible idea, but you really have to look at the time/effort/result and decide if you're not better off lopping it off and starting anew. If this one pictured wasn't close enough to meeting my meager standards, I'd just cut it off.

You do have a bolt welding jig? It speeds things up considerably, and you can accurately mock up your bolt to measure for clearance..Happy welding..............Scott

post-472-1169927067_thumb.jpg

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I've got a jig. Here it is set up for my first attempt:

 

Bolt%20jig.JPG

 

The bolt handle is from a military bolt, but obviously not the pure ball type. This kind is plenty servicable and attractive in my mind. My only complaint is that it ended up a little shorter than ideal. I may build up the end on the next go. Below you can see what it looks like after I cleaned it up a bit: (It's the second one from the left)

 

bolts%20etc.JPG

 

It was starting to look pretty nice, but I became suspicious of the quality of weld as there appeared cracks where I didn't get good penetration with the wirefeed. ("shooting goobers" as somebody here put it...) I horked on the handle and it snapped off in my hand. Time to reconsider...

 

The last nail in the coffin of the Oxy-Atetylene idea was a post here where an aluminum heat sink melted and clanged to the floor in the middle of a job. So, TIG it is. Like I said it just took me a while to realize that I could rent one.

 

As long as the picture is up, the one on the far left is forged, but my tastes have shifted and I think I will cut it off and re-weld. The handle on the top right is my mangled attempt to recontour a military ball, (Yours is MUCH better by the way!!!) second from the bottom is a Talley, and the bottom is an eBay trade. It appears cast with some roughness, but as long as there are no voids it should clean up well.

 

I also forked out for a two paneled checkered model that is georgeous. That's the one that has me nervous!

 

By the way, if I had a lathe I'd probably make my own from scratch rather than mess with a military ball!

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post-472-1170053024_thumb.jpg

I've got a jig. Here it is set up for my first attempt:

 

Bolt%20jig.JPG

 

The bolt handle is from a military bolt, but obviously not the pure ball type. This kind is plenty servicable and attractive in my mind. My only complaint is that it ended up a little shorter than ideal. I may build up the end on the next go. Below you can see what it looks like after I cleaned it up a bit: (It's the second one from the left)

 

bolts%20etc.JPG

 

It was starting to look pretty nice, but I became suspicious of the quality of weld as there appeared cracks where I didn't get good penetration with the wirefeed. ("shooting goobers" as somebody here put it...) I horked on the handle and it snapped off in my hand. Time to reconsider...

 

The last nail in the coffin of the Oxy-Atetylene idea was a post here where an aluminum heat sink melted and clanged to the floor in the middle of a job. So, TIG it is. Like I said it just took me a while to realize that I could rent one.

 

As long as the picture is up, the one on the far left is forged, but my tastes have shifted and I think I will cut it off and re-weld. The handle on the top right is my mangled attempt to recontour a military ball, (Yours is MUCH better by the way!!!) second from the bottom is a Talley, and the bottom is an eBay trade. It appears cast with some roughness, but as long as there are no voids it should clean up well.

 

I also forked out for a two paneled checkered model that is georgeous. That's the one that has me nervous!

 

By the way, if I had a lathe I'd probably make my own from scratch rather than mess with a military ball!

 

After having some time away from the bolt I had tried filing, I did a little more work on it. I tried a different approach, I used a vertical belt sander and the smoothest belt I had so that it would only take off small amounts. Then I worked on small areas starting at the back and working around to the front.

I think that would work with yours too, you can see that on your bolt handle the angle on the top(of the pic) is shallower than on the bottom of the pic. I had the same thing on my bolt in the same spot. It probably seems like a crazy thought, but what about chucking that bolt handle in a drill press or electric hand drill in a vise and then using a file. As long as you don't press too hard it might work. Pressing too hard would probably not be good for the bearings.

I'm done with mine, it is not perfect by a long shot, but this rifle is definitely going to be a rough and tumble hunting rifle and not a show piece. Tomorrw I bead blast and hopefully this week try my hand at bluing. Good luck with yours, save that fancy handle for when you're confidant in your welding........................Scott

 

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