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Military Firearm Restoration Corner

K98 Action


TOMFIORINOJR

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I have a K98 mauser brought back from WWII. Markings on large ring are byf 41 and, serial nos. 4168 are the same on trigger guard, floor plate, and large ring. SN's on bolt and barrel are different. Back in mid sixties I decided to sporterize the rifle. I did not understand what a prize I had, and wish I had not tampered with it. I had a house fire and all the original parts were lost. The barreled action was not in the fire. Now 40 years later I've dediced to finish what I started. I want to replace the barrel due to corrosion and wear on the original barrel. I was considering .270 but would like your recommendations. I have a .243 and a 30-06. The other considerations were the 300 WM or 338 mag.

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Ah, hindsight.

 

Since you already have a .30-06 the .270 seems somewhat redundant although it is a nice cartridge.. The .300 WM is a step up but depending on what you hunt may not offer much over the '06 except for recoil. I'd be tempted to build either a .338-06, .338 WM or 9.3x62. Bear in mind that the magnums conversions will run you more since there are feeding & bolt face issues to contend with.

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As one, I can say that some of you tend to forget that not everyone that shoots also reloads.

 

Since he already has a 30-06 and you can find it on the shelf, I'll throw out the 35 Whealan.

 

Dang!

That makes me burn a bit that I haven't gotten mine built yet.

Oh well, some day.

 

Welcome Tom, glad you chose to joins us.

 

Tinker

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As one, I can say that some of you tend to forget that not everyone that shoots also reloads.

 

Since he already has a 30-06 and you can find it on the shelf, I'll throw out the 35 Whealan.

 

Dang!

That makes me burn a bit that I haven't gotten mine built yet.

Oh well, some day.

 

Welcome Tom, glad you chose to joins us.

 

Tinker

 

I'd bet you can find 9.3x62 ammo for about the same as .35 Whelen which isn't too common itself.

 

besides, what's wrong with you that you don't reload? :P

 

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I'd bet you can find 9.3x62 ammo for about the same as .35 Whelen which isn't too common itself.

 

besides, what's wrong with you that you don't reload? :P

 

Nothing that more time and more money wouldn't cure :lol:

 

Maybe when I retire I'll have time to 'work up a load'

but boy! not now.

 

If only I could hit it big on the lottery I could retire early, buy that lathe and 'work up a load' too.

 

Tinker :P

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TOM F, retaining the same bolt face and generally avoiding feeding problems, the obvious choices are 25-06 Rem, 6.5x55 Swede. 270 Win, 280 Rem for deer family game. If you want a heavier loading then 338-06 or 35 Whelen. The magnum loadings, as stated, will require more work to function properly, but may be what you want.

You did not mention what you want to do with this particular rifle. Will you hunt with it and/or punch paper?

Welcome to site. There's a lot of good information floating around here with knowledgeable people ready to help you. :)

 

Spiris

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I do not have use for the magnums, though it would be nice to own one. I've always wanted a .338. However, I've been considering the .25-06, the 6.5x55 Swede, as well as the .270. One concern is with feed issues. I thought the .270 would be less on a feed issue or are all three calibers close enough in length as not not pose a feed problem? I've read alot on the forums about the potential of the 6.5x55 Swede, mild recoil - very close to the the .270 and is what I was considering as the caliber of choice.

 

I have decided to have a gunsmith do the rebarreling, hot blueing, and drill and tap for a scope rather than trying to take on the job myself. By the time I purchase all the tools/equipment required to do the job properly I can pay to have a professional job done. $200 for the rebarreling, $200 for the hot blueing, and $85 for the drill and tap for scope mounts. When all is said and done with this project I know I could purchase a new rifle for about what this is going to cost me, but I have the desire to finish the K98.

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I do not have use for the magnums, though it would be nice to own one. I've always wanted a .338. However, I've been considering the .25-06, the 6.5x55 Swede, as well as the .270. One concern is with feed issues. I thought the .270 would be less on a feed issue or are all three calibers close enough in length as not not pose a feed problem? I've read alot on the forums about the potential of the 6.5x55 Swede, mild recoil - very close to the the .270 and is what I was considering as the caliber of choice.

 

I have decided to have a gunsmith do the rebarreling, hot blueing, and drill and tap for a scope rather than trying to take on the job myself. By the time I purchase all the tools/equipment required to do the job properly I can pay to have a professional job done. $200 for the rebarreling, $200 for the hot blueing, and $85 for the drill and tap for scope mounts. When all is said and done with this project I know I could purchase a new rifle for about what this is going to cost me, but I have the desire to finish the K98.

 

I ended up at the same place as you 6 months ago. The guys on this site helped me reach the conclusion that is cheaper, safer, and Ill end up with alot nicer end result if I let someone that knows how to do it build the gun for me. z1r is building me a 6.5x55 sweede right now, this gun is going to be my go to gun light recoil and excellent ballistics.

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I've been considering the .25-06, the 6.5x55 Swede, as well as the .270. One concern is with feed issues. I thought the .270 would be less on a feed issue or are all three calibers close enough in length as not not pose a feed problem?

 

The 6.5x55 fits in that niche between the 243 and the 30-06. It's high BC accounts for its ability to deliver accurate, deep penetration that belies its size. In a K98 action, it can be loaded a bit hotter than the 96 actions, adding another dimension to a superbly designed cartridge. It has my vote. But any of the rounds you mentioned should feed reliably. My second choice would be the 270 Win.

 

Spiris

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I did not understand what a prize I had, and wish I had not tampered with it.

 

 

Looking through my 20/20 hindsight I've cut up a few gems years ago, don't feel bad you're not the only one. Being that you have a small and medium caliber, I suggest a large caliber. Any of the 338's, 35 Whelen or if you have the guts and really want to go big, the 375 Ruger. Talk to Z before you get the barrel. If you are going to pay labor for a re-barrel you're better off spending 50 bucks more rather than roll the dice with a cheapie.

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By the time I purchase all the tools/equipment required to do the job properly I can pay to have a professional job done. $200 for the rebarreling, $200 for the hot blueing, and $85 for the drill and tap for scope mounts.

 

Hey! You can't look at it like "that".

Here is how you look at it.

You put the $485 into the tools and then then next 50 or 100 that you do are all gravy.

I've got most everything but the lathe and I'm working on that.

 

Don't worry about your inexperience, you can ask anything you need to know here;

any 20 or 30 of us will likely be able to answer your question.

 

Tinker ;)

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i realize i have little insight, especially compared to these folks. im a rookie through and through, but im lucky enough to be a tool and die man by trade, with all the tools necc. i have the ambition, but not the experience. the wealth of knowledge available here is unrivaled. with the guidance i've gotten here, i've been able to do everything myself. i take great pride in my work, and i'm proud to say im just about done with my first rifle.

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I purchased JERRY KUHNHAUSEN MAUSER MANUAL and read through it. The rebarreling is more than I have confidence in doing myself . I don't plan on rebarreling another rifle, Ijust want to finish what I started with this one, but who knows, anything can happen. I feel that it is best to have a compentent gunsmith handle this for me at this time.

I have cleaned the receiver group, and bolt throughly. I took it down to white metal, degreased everything, and reblued the receiver and bolt. It turned out great, for cold blueing. All metal surfaces were buffed and polished using a Dremel and rouge. Metal components looked like chrome when finished.

I checked the Brownells web site and they have Shilen fitted barrels for large ring 98 mausers in various calibers for $238. I also checked Sporters Express and they have Lothar Walther barrels also for 98 mausers. The Shilen barrels are threaded, short chambered, and will need to finish reaming the chamber and set the head space. The Lothar Walther barrels is long chambered and threaded for the 98 mauser. They will have to set back the shoulders and breach face.

I will check with the gunsmith to get advice as to which barrel mfg. to use. Once I work out the details of the work to be done with the gunsmith, I'll order the barrel.

As for caliber I am struggling with choosing between the 6.5x55 Swede and the .270 Win. I'm sure I will be happy with either one. There is plenty of ammo available for the .270 Win but not that much available for the 6.5x55 Swede, which leads me to lean towards the .270 Win.

Let's take a vote: 6.5x55 Swede or .270 Win!

 

Thanks to all for your input in helping me reach a decision.

 

TOM F

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You will be happy with either caliber, Tom. The short-chambered barrels that require reaming are actually a bit easier to fit than the long-chambered ones, but either is fairly straight forward. Your choice...........

 

Clemson

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I ended up at the same place as you 6 months ago. The guys on this site helped me reach the conclusion that is cheaper, safer, and Ill end up with alot nicer end result if I let someone that knows how to do it build the gun for me. z1r is building me a 6.5x55 sweede right now, this gun is going to be my go to gun light recoil and excellent ballistics.

I decided to have a gunsmith do the work for me as well. It's too much for me to handle, and know that it was done correctly as well as safely. I'm torn between the 6.5x55 Swede and the .270 Win. The availability of ammo is the issue.

 

TOM F.

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Looking through my 20/20 hindsight I've cut up a few gems years ago, don't feel bad you're not the only one. Being that you have a small and medium caliber, I suggest a large caliber. Any of the 338's, 35 Whelen or if you have the guts and really want to go big, the 375 Ruger. Talk to Z before you get the barrel. If you are going to pay labor for a re-barrel you're better off spending 50 bucks more rather than roll the dice with a cheapie.

I think I'll keep the cost of the project down by going with the 6.5x55 Swede or tthe .270 Win. There may be a .300 Win or .338 Win in the future. I have .22 cal, .22 hornet, .223. Then I step up to the .243 and .30-06. I want to fill in between the .243 and .30-06. Afterwards I'll consider the .300 Win, .338 Win, or .358 Win.

 

Tom F

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You will be happy with either caliber, Tom. The short-chambered barrels that require reaming are actually a bit easier to fit than the long-chambered ones, but either is fairly straight forward. Your choice...........

 

Clemson

 

I've always felt the opposite, but the time you set the shoulders right you might as well just headspace it that way and avoid the cost of a reamer.

-Don

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Potaytoes, Potahtoes......

 

When fitting a short-chambered barrel, you can actually fit the tenon with adequate crush to get it snugged up and then finish off with a hand-turned reamer to get just the right amount of "drag" on closing on the Go gauge. It is harder to get that precise fit on a long-chambered barrel, particularly since you are estimating the amount of crush.

 

For a hunting barrel, it is pretty much academic. I have the reamers, so it doesn't bother me to fit the short-chambered barrels. Kind of funny, but I actually have a Lothar Walther long-chambered 6.5x55 barrel in the shop now. Who knows when I'll get around to fitting that one? I do have a micrometer carriage stop on the lathe that I will use when I do that LW barrel. That should make it a bit easier.

 

Clemson

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I've gotten to where I seem to tighten the barrel, or is it the action, about the same each time. Estimating crush is practically a given now.

 

There are many ways to skin a cat. Each cat skinner has his preferred method.

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The 6.5x55 fits in that niche between the 243 and the 30-06. It's high BC accounts for its ability to deliver accurate, deep penetration that belies its size. In a K98 action, it can be loaded a bit hotter than the 96 actions, adding another dimension to a superbly designed cartridge. It has my vote. But any of the rounds you mentioned should feed reliably. My second choice would be the 270 Win.

 

Spiris

I did not give consideration to the possibility of loading the round a bit hotter due the fact that it is a k98 action. This adds another demension to the round. I found the following data on reloading: Speer 120 gr bullet, 49 gr IMR 4531 powder 2886 mv - 140 gr bullet, 48gr RL22 powder 2671 mv. How can I develop a safe load (loading it hotter) for this round? What sort of ballistics can I achieve?

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