Jump to content
Military Firearm Restoration Corner

Best type of Mauser low safety


usmc0332

Recommended Posts

Guest Guest_MorgansBoss_*

Alright! Now this thread's cook'n, great ideas!

 

IC1, are you welding on an "extra peice" to facilitate the safety? Has a nice "finished" look, unlike the side-swing safties sold for original shrouds that leave unsuightly mill-cuts exposed.

 

Fritz - Your idea is neat to. Who was it here that was forging original safties in a similar fashion? As I love checkered steel butt plates and they're getting increasingly hard to find at bargain basement prices, I did cringe a bit when I read your description. rolleyes.gif

Link to comment
Share on other sites

IC1, are you welding on an "extra peice" to facilitate the safety?  Has a nice "finished" look, unlike the side-swing safties sold for original shrouds that leave unsuightly mill-cuts exposed.

 

rolleyes.gif

8892[/snapback]

 

Yes I weld on an extra piece , then drill three holes where needed for lever, locking screw ,and indent ball, spring and plug screw. I'll try to do up a drawing. I've got Alibre CAD on my pc but I,m still trying to learn how to use it. Guess I'll have to do a crude hand drawing for now. blink.gifbiggrin.gif

Link to comment
Share on other sites

O.K. I tried to do up some drawings on the safety . First cut the bolt shroud back at the top where the safety lever shaft goes . ( about 3/4 " ) then cut a piece of steel to shape as shown and weld in place

 

user posted image

 

user posted image

 

with the kocking piece in the kock position measure to the forward end of the kocking piece .remove the kocking piece and drill the shroud for the safety lever shaft. Safety lever can be made from original or make new one. drill and tap holes for detent ball and lever shaft lock. indent shaft at safe position and at fire position.

 

user posted image

 

Bottom of lever shaft must be ground to shape at the fire position. bevel slightly at the back so as to push the kocking piece slightly rearward when engaged. Hope this helps.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Beautiful design IC1,

 

I'm going to give that a try!

 

The hardest part looks to be making the part to weld in.  How to you cut the radius?

8964[/snapback]

 

The hardest part is timing. ( getting the shaft hole in exactly the right spot to get it to move the cocking piece slightly rearward.) You can actually weld on a simple square piece and fillet weld the edges. you don't need the notch on top. Ido mine by counter sinking the shaft hole and cut away the outer half from the center of the hole and contouring with files and grinding. I try to get everything smoothed out to where it looks good.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

IC1,

 

Very ingenious design! You've inspired me, and I've taken a renewed interest in a couple milsurp shrouds I have laying around.

 

Ironically, I just recently purchased a Dakota three position safety which I had been doing a little contemplative reverse engineering of with the thought of converting the military shroud to a similar configuration.

 

May I assume that yours is a two position? It seems like you'd be able to make a rod/plunger (similar to the chapman style) that would be cammed into position to lock the bolt if one wanted.

 

Just to make sure I understand it, the ball and indent spring are intended to provide some slight resistance and a positive detent in each position?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

IC1,

 

 

 

May I assume that yours is a two position?  It seems like you'd be able to make a rod/plunger (similar to the chapman style) that would be cammed into position to lock the bolt if one wanted.

 

Just to make sure I understand it, the ball and indent spring are intended to provide some slight resistance and a positive detent in each position?

9056[/snapback]

 

Yes it's two position. It could be done as you said in three position but I never felt the need for locking the bolt , besides being a lot more work involved.

 

Right again, I actually meant to write detent not indent. Too much Christmas cheer I guess. unsure.gifbiggrin.gif

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yes it's two position. It could be done as you said in three position but I never felt the need for locking the bolt , besides being a lot more work involved.

 

I agree. In fact, that's one of my beefs with the Chapman style. Seems like there's more need to cycle the action while safed than to lock the bolt. Still, that's how Paul designed it, and I think it would be an interesting academic pursuit to attempt it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I agree.  In fact, that's one of my beefs with the Chapman style.  Seems like there's more need to cycle the action while safed than to lock the bolt.  Still, that's how Paul designed it, and I think it would be an interesting academic pursuit to attempt it.

9079[/snapback]

 

Here is an idea for three way which might work. I'll do one to see if it's practical when I get some spare time.

 

user posted image

 

user posted image

 

user posted image

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That's pretty close to how I envisioned doing it. I thought I'd might try using the stock military safety lever, reshaping the existing portion that blocks the cocking piece into a cam shape that would push a spring loaded plunger forward in the existing hole to lock the bolt in the full aft position.

 

I'll try to do a sketch when I get a chance.

 

Nice work on your drawings by the way, you'll be dangerous when you get the CAD program up and running! wink.gif

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That's pretty close to how I envisioned doing it.  I thought I'd might try using the stock military safety lever, reshaping the existing portion that blocks the cocking piece into a cam shape that would push a spring loaded plunger forward in the existing hole to lock the bolt in the full aft position. 

 

I'll try to do a sketch when I get a chance.

 

Nice work on your drawings by the way, you'll be dangerous when you get the CAD program up and running!  wink.gif

9121[/snapback]

 

 

Mike there are two problems I see with that way. I thought of doing the same but the size of the existing hole would not be large enough to accommodate the spring and plunger without reducing the size of the plunger shaft substantially.Also another problem is if the plunger were to jam in the lock position there would be no way of pushing it back to unlock the bolt. Maybe you have some other way of doing it.When you get the drawings done please post them

A.J.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Below is how I envisioned doing it. This is the same way that the Chapman two position safety functions, the only original Monty-thought was to notch the aft portion of the plunger to preclude rotation of the shaft and subsequent spring entanglement in the bolt. (I think spring tension takes care of this, but it is an added measure.) I think the plunger could serve as your ball detent in providing positive position stops and friction to keep the lever from flopping around.

 

My sketch pad was wider than a standard 8.5x11, so the right side got cut off. One of the comments was that you'd probably have to add some material to form a mini-lever arm or cam for the full locked position since by my eyeball there may not be enough there. (depending of course on where you position the vertical shaft.)

 

user posted image

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I can tell you from experience (sort of) that this idea will work. I used a very similar arrangement several months ago on a M93 conversion to the right-side 2-position safety I described above. Rather than as a bolt locking mechanisms though (I to feel this feature is more of a handicap than an advantage on a sporting rifle) I used it to keep shroud and bolt indexed. Due to the pre-M98's not having the shroud locking plunger on the left side there is a tendency for them to back out sometimes. I used the plunger & spring method you outline above only with a convex end on the plunger and a matching detent notch on the bolt.

 

The only drawback to such modifications (I've tried several detent & lock screw ideas in the past) is the difficulty in drilling and or tapping the shroud.

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'll try this eventually, and you can be sure a full report, good or bad, will be forthcoming.

 

Don't hold your breath though, I have far more time to think, and dream, and plan than I have to actually execute my ideas.

 

When I'm actively tinkering in the garage I am burning points, yet I can be envisioning how to notch the shroud or shape the cam while driving to dance lessons or the mall...

 

Wife: "You seem distracted honey, what are you thinking about?"

 

Monty: (although actually solving Mauser safety issues...) "I'm just hoping the new knee socks we bought the girls won't clash with their dresses".

 

Anybody else know what I'm talking about?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

×
×
  • Create New...