Jump to content
Military Firearm Restoration Corner

tomme boy

Members
  • Posts

    49
  • Joined

  • Last visited

tomme boy's Achievements

0

Reputation

  1. has not set their status

  2. Guys, what the grown is called is extrusion. I worked in a metal extrusion plant for 7 years and we would make all kinds of nuts, bolts, ball joints, gears, and on and on. We would take a 1" round bar and press it threw dies and form it into something else. This is actually what is happening. As you PFL size, the body of the case is sized back down to size. Now, if the shoulder of the die is adjusted up to PFL size, the brass can and will be pushed up to the shoulder. When the brass is being sized down, where else can the brass go but up. That is why you see this happening from time to time. I do not set any of my dies up the way the die makers say to. What I like to do is find brass that was not fired out of my rifle and keep sizing it down until it does chamber. This way I know I am not over working the brass.
  3. Use 4350, Hod or IMR. 4895 is a little too fast for the 243. It can be used, but it leaves too much space in the case. The 87gr HPBT Hornady is one of my favorites. 41.5gr of h4350. Seat to your rifle.
  4. There are no sight holes. It is A PSS barrel. Or a Varmit barrel. They are the same. The barrel is a 308. And the rec. is a KKale. I dont think it is contacting the throat. It is actually touching the sides of the chamber. The HS gauge goes in the barrel no problem. It looks like I will just have to ream it. Now, what #'s would I use for the face of rec. to the bolt as there is a differance from side to side. .7235" and .725".?Thanks guys.
  5. OK, I did some measurements today on a Turk action and I came up with these #'s and need to know what to do about these #'s. Face of rec. to bolt on one side is .7235 on the other side of the face of the bolt it is .725 Face of rec. to C-ring is .620 all the way around. I am going to have a Rem. barrel turned for the Turk and need to get some #'s straight. For the #'s on the bolt, what should I use. The bolt has not had the face trued. I guessing that's where the 2 #'s are coming from. I lapped the lugs and that is it for the bolt. I would not like to have to run the reamer into the chamber as the chamber on the barrel now is tighter than what my reamer would cut. It also has a shorter leade. I real carefully tried to slide the reamer into the chamber now and it would only go in about 1/2 way. That's why I think it has a tighter chamber. I also tried some ammo that I have loaded for another gun in the same cal. in new brass that has NOT been fired yet but set for this guns throat and it was .2 longer than the chamber on this barrel that I want to use for the Turk. Another reason that I do not want to use the reameron this unless I have to. That for the input.
  6. Get the Burris Signiture rings and put in a 20 MOA ring set in the front or rear. Problem solved. If the action is that far out of wack, hopfully it did not kink the scope. If it did, your Leopold warranty will be void. I have had this happen to me 3 times. Now I just buy the Burris rings and don't worry. They will take up any miss alignment.
  7. Use the .311 bullets. Your groups will tighten up even more. RL15 is real close to Varget on the burn rate. If it does not like one powder, it will like the other. I shoot the 174gr HPBT match 311's out of mine with RL15 and I found that with this bullet and powder, it liked a Mag primer. Try to seat the bullets out as far as you can go to get them to touch the rifling. If you can not get to the lands, seat the bullet into the case to 1/2 of the diameter of the bullet.
  8. From what I have been told. One the pressures will be lower due to the bullet sliding down the barrel easier. You will lose speed because of less friction. You will have to add more powder to make up the speed loss. Make sure the bore is completely free off copper before you shoot anything moly in it. The moly will trap the copper and will corrode under the moly. Don't shoot copper over moly, it will layer and will be a pain in the arse to remove. I have also heard of increased throat wear, more than likely from the increase in powder charge. It also will build up just as copper will and your accurracy will start to go to hell. It is a lot harder to remove than copper. My experiance with it. Very messy. If you get it on your fingers, anything you touch will have fingerprints on it. What ever you do, don't pick your nose after handling moly bullets. I used to put it on FMJ's for my AR. I did a lot! of shooting with it. Over 10K a year for 3 years. This barrel had very significant throat wear when I had a new barrel put on it. Did it help? I don't know. I had put about 3K threw the new barrel with no moly before I got rid of it. So I can't say if it helped. I cleaned the barrel every 1K rounds with JB and Kroil to remove the crud. Then ran a new patch that had moly on it to reapply it to the barrel. Most of the info that I have heard about this stuff was from guys that shoot BR. One will swear by it, the next will swear at it. Good luck with whatever you want to use.
  9. When you lap a barrel using the lead lap method, you have to take off 2" of bothe ends of the barrel. It eggs out the ends. On a blank, it is not a problem on the chamber end. You will be running the reamer into it to remove the bad rifling. Then chop off the other end and recrown it. I would not do this to a barrel that is already been chambered and crowned.
  10. AZ, ask them for a taller rear and a shorter front. That should help to make the sights more level. I wouldn't shim the rear. It just would not look right.
  11. Sounds like you had fun, But we need pics.
  12. Skeet, it was over a year ago that I got the stock. I can not remember what I ordered for the grade. I can not find the paperwork for it. But the AA sounds right? I think. It was a press fit. It fit mine pretty well. It was tight in some spots and loose in others. Kind of like my old la.... wait did I say that. I told them I had a A&B F34 and they said they were going to do a CNC program for a #3 contour and it should be a little smaller than the F34. I did not have to take out much to get it floated. The round just came out not too long ago. If I do this one I am going to have a friend help set it up on his lathe to do the chamber. Here is some info. 6.5x47 Swiss I tried the JB route but it did not help. This thing has chatter marks all the way down the tube. When I say it falls apart, goes from a group just under 1" out to about 1.25". Most people would love to have a rifle that shoots a 1.25" group. I have ownded several Rem and Sav. rifles that were called varmit rifles that would not shoot any better than 1.25'' at 100. Some of them are real accurate, but some of them are real dogs. Here is a target that I shot with one of my 700's that I have kept in .243win. It was shot at 500yds. Like I said not all are bad. This just likes to shoot with a bunch of copper in the bore.[attachmentid=204]
  13. They milled down the left rear of the rec. It did help, but I think I put in a 5 moa spacer. I wanted a little more room for adj. on the target scope. I'm going to try to get out this week to see what it does at 600. I have to wait for the corn to get picked before I can get it to 1K. I might have to put a 20moa spacer in to get the elevation for this, and hopefully the speed is fast enough to stay stable at 1K.
  14. It is fully bedded. The bore is not very smooth. That and the reamer I used to finish the chamber cut the throat very-very long. On a total clean barrel, it takes about 10 shots before it will settle down. The I can go about 50 shots before it starts to fall apart again. The next one I was thinking about is the 6.5x47 Swiss, or a 6.5-250 imp.
  15. This was my first complete build. It is a M48 Yugo. I did this one in .308win. It is a A&B F34. The stock is a Richards Microfit. It was their first stock that was cut for other than a very light wieght contour. It took hardly any work for the barrel or action to fit it. The bolt is a Davis May. I did all of the work myself on this one. The finish on the stock is Var Urethane. There is abut 30 coats on it. I sanded each coat then put on another to fill the grain and get it smooth. The blue is Birtchwoods Super Blue. It took about 2 weeks to get it black. Heat it up, put on the solution , dunck it in cold water. This shoots real good too. Once I found what it liked. The best group with this one is a .7925" from the widest to widest. It also likes to have a lot of copper in the bore before it shoots well. Remindes me of my Rem 700.
×
×
  • Create New...