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Military Firearm Restoration Corner

Safety Not Engaging


911rat

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I was checking out one of the Mausers I just notched for a handle and found that the safety will not engage after it is taken off. The cocking piece just a tad too far forward for the safety to cam in. Using original military trigger/sear and safety.

 

The same parts work fine on another receiver/bolt combo. The only diference being the bolt body and receiver. The handles are both notched in properly, stop at exactly TDC and the bolt handles don't jump.

 

Figured someone else had the same problem. I couldn't find anything on a search. I'm guessing I could try different sears and cocking peices?

 

Oh, and how much does the Mauser "bolt slop" affect accuracy?

 

I know I'm gonna smack myself in the forehead with the palm of my hand when I get the answer. I'm getting flat spot now.

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If you have enough parts, you can try swapping between rifles until you find a cocking piece and Safety combination that work well. If you have to go for a fix, you LIGHTLY stone the surface of the cocking piece where the safety cams it back until the safety will engage it correctly. The safety must cam that cocking piece back. If you remove too much material, the safety will block the firing pin, but the sear may not re-engage when the safety is moved to the off position after someone has pulled the trigger. That means that the gun will fire when it is taken off "SAFE". That can ruin your whole day.

 

Clemson

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Just to clarify, are these the same bolt assembly parts that were on the rifle that worked fine before you notched it for the handle?

 

Also, just curious as the the type of safety... stock military or aftermarket?

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I'm using all military parts at this point to see how it works. I'm not sure if I'm trying the same original bolt assembly parts for this reveiver. I thought I was but never marked them. The forged bolt is not original, I discovered that the original had a bent body. Looks like the only thing to do is take a little off a cocking piece. I figure I only need to remove about .005 the way it looks. It's very close.

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I'm using all military parts at this point to see how it works. I'm not sure if I'm trying the same original bolt assembly parts for this reveiver. I thought I was but never marked them. The forged bolt is not original, I discovered that the original had a bent body. Looks like the only thing to do is take a little off a cocking piece. I figure I only need to remove about .005 the way it looks. It's very close.

 

 

No, if you need to make adjustments, the thing to do is bevel the engagement ramp on the safety not the cocking piece.

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Guest Guest_911rat_*

No, if you need to make adjustments, the thing to do is bevel the engagement ramp on the safety not the cocking piece.

 

Since I'm going to be replacing the military safety with a Timney, I'll take a wait and see. I didn't realize at first how close it was to camming in.

 

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