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Military Firearm Restoration Corner

Indian Creek 1

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About Indian Creek 1

  • Birthday 06/25/1935

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  • Location
    South Mississippi
  • Interests
    hunting , shooting , gunsmithing

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  1. Don this is the only pic of an FN bottom metal that I have and is one I cut the guard off to be replaced by one that I made. It is not avery good pic. but you can see the simualarity to yours.
  2. Don, the FN has the short tang but the lock screw is forward of the rear screw and rearward of the front screw.
  3. The upper looks like an FN, altho I'm not sure.
  4. Don, the lower one may be spanish 1916 converted to 7.62 .
  5. I can remember when a coke was a nickle and so was four big cinnamon rolls in a pack. We also could get a sandwich on french with choice of meats for 15 cents . That was back in the 40's . Boy am I getting old. In the 60's I bought an O3-A3 unissued in cosmoline for $35.00. Wish I still had it.
  6. Well Fritz it seems like we both have been in the trade for a long time(I started welding in 1958) and I agree that for someone who has not had a lot of experience it may be frustrating but that is the rig I use and have no problems. It is certainly less expensive and with practice can be no more problem than high frequency rigs.
  7. If you have access to an AC/DC cracker box you can get a dry TIG rig and a small bottle of argon and use it with the cracker box set on DC. That is the rig I use and it works great for gunsmithing . You do not need high frequency except for aluminum. A.J.
  8. There are some small flapper wheels available that would do except in the tightest spots.
  9. Mike , hope you have success with the 3 way idea. I had tried similar without satisfactory results . Hopefully you'll get it to work as you envision. Keep us posted on progress. A.J.
  10. Mike there are two problems I see with that way. I thought of doing the same but the size of the existing hole would not be large enough to accommodate the spring and plunger without reducing the size of the plunger shaft substantially.Also another problem is if the plunger were to jam in the lock position there would be no way of pushing it back to unlock the bolt. Maybe you have some other way of doing it.When you get the drawings done please post them A.J.
  11. Here is an idea for three way which might work. I'll do one to see if it's practical when I get some spare time.
  12. Yes it's two position. It could be done as you said in three position but I never felt the need for locking the bolt , besides being a lot more work involved. Right again, I actually meant to write detent not indent. Too much Christmas cheer I guess.
  13. The hardest part is timing. ( getting the shaft hole in exactly the right spot to get it to move the cocking piece slightly rearward.) You can actually weld on a simple square piece and fillet weld the edges. you don't need the notch on top. Ido mine by counter sinking the shaft hole and cut away the outer half from the center of the hole and contouring with files and grinding. I try to get everything smoothed out to where it looks good.
  14. O.K. I tried to do up some drawings on the safety . First cut the bolt shroud back at the top where the safety lever shaft goes . ( about 3/4 " ) then cut a piece of steel to shape as shown and weld in place with the kocking piece in the kock position measure to the forward end of the kocking piece .remove the kocking piece and drill the shroud for the safety lever shaft. Safety lever can be made from original or make new one. drill and tap holes for detent ball and lever shaft lock. indent shaft at safe position and at fire position. Bottom of lever shaft must be ground to shape at the fire position. bevel slightly at the back so as to push the kocking piece slightly rearward when engaged. Hope this helps.
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