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Critter183

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    Middleburgh, NY

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  1. Thanks for the good advice! I heard that wheel weight lead makes good bullet casting material. Adding tin does seem to be important. This guy has some good info on casting bullets: CAST BULLETS IN THE LEE ENFIELD RIFLE by David Southall I liked his recommendation of using 50/50 lead/tin solder to add tin to the mix. Also, he drops his bullets from the mold into a water pail to harden them. Ever hear of that trick? I have a great spot outdoors for doing stuff like this. My garage is cinder block with a poured concrete roof, which serves as a huge patio. It's a perfect place for good weather outdoor projects, especially since it has a nice view of the lake. hehehe
  2. If it blows up, remember, I did say "Maybe I'm nuts..." hehehe
  3. Funny you should mention that. My brother is in the tire business, and I just asked him to start saving his old lead wheel weights for me. lol
  4. I don't see how seating the bullet a little deeper will cause an over pressure situation even close to what you had when the round chambered with the bullet already into the rifling, especially if you stay close to the spec COL. I would try a couple and see what they do. But maybe I'm just nuts.
  5. Yup. Cases and bullets, yes, for serious ammo. No for plinking. I don't think case and bullet weight effect accuracy enough to make me miss when I plink. hehehe Not yet, cuz I get mine to work well enough without doing that, but I think I may try to see if I can see any difference. No flame taken. I don't get to shoot as much as I used to so I spend more time reloading. It keeps me close to the sport that I love. I like cast bullet matches too. When I load for those, I use the same routine, again cuz it's something I like to do at night when I'm bored. I should explain that where I live, I have no cable TV, a mountian blocking my way to direct tv, no wife, kid stays mostly at the ex's house these days... in other words, I have no life. lol So I read, play on the computer and reload, especially when the days get short and cold weather moves in.
  6. I would never refinish anything that I wanted to keep for histpric or collector value. That said, when I do refinish something, I start with my old boatswain's knife, holding the blade perpendicular to the wood and lightly scrape off the heavy stuff. I don't like using WMDs or chemical weapons on wood, so once I have the heaviest of the varnish off the wood, I start with 100 grit sandpaper to take all the color and remaining varnish off. Then I step to 150 grit, then 220 grit and finally some steel wool to get it nice and slick. I apply whatever stain I am using and then 4 or 5 coats of Birchwood Casey Tru Oil, with a good steel wooling with 00 steel wool, between coats. Here's a Romanian M69 done that way: The pictures suck but the finish is sweet!
  7. That might be a problem. To lose a primer or even push one out significantly, the head of the case has to be rather far off the bolt face, no? What might cause that? A rough chamber holding the case from moving back to the bolt face when fired? Loose head spacing? Both?
  8. I weight every charge, every time. I tried to justify using a powder thrower by saying, ok, I'll use that for plinking ammo, but, I like to hit what I'm aiming at, even when plinking, so my plinking ammo needs to be as accurate as my serious ammo, I suppose. I mean what's the fun of missing? lol I do usually use factory ammo to get the rifle on paper, than then start with my handloads. I never worked up a 30-06 load, but if I did, using your 180 gr for example, with say IMR 4350, my Sierra book (old 2nd edition) lists minimum at 48.7 and max at 56.0. I never start at minimum. Maybe I'm impatient or just don't want my bullets going that slow, but I usually start at some middlepoint, in this case it would be 52.3 which the book says will yield 2600fps. Now I'll load 20 rounds, 5 at the start point, 5 at the max, and 5 each of equal steps between my start load and max load. In this case that would be maybe 53.5 and then 54.8. By firing all four sets in order, if I see improvement all the way through, and the best is the max, I'd probably just stop there if it was adequate, and if the cases show no pressure problems. If the best was the third batch of five and it dropped off with the max, I would work up 5 loads of the third batch, and five each of three incriments between the third and the max, and do it again. Normally I'm going to the range with 2 or 3 rifles and doing any more than 5 of each incriment and more than 4 incriments would be prohibitive, timewise. Now, why don't you have a chronograph? Could it be the same reason I didn't have one til last week? I thought they were a huge $ investment, and never bothered to look into them. Last week, I found a Chrony Chronograph for about $75 to the door from EA Brown. I haven't tried it yet, but it seems like a nice machine.
  9. I can't believe the prices people are asking for Mausers these days. Four years ago, I bought a Gustav M96 for $119 in pristine condition. Two years ago, I GAVE it to a friend who really had a hardon for it. I figured, eh, if I ever miss it I'll buy another one, no biggie. Now the CRAP I see out there for $450 makes me sick to my stomach. lol
  10. My M96 LOVED 140gr SBTs with 44gr of IMR4350. OAL= 3.065"
  11. A chick that digs 7mm Mauser? What's her phone number? hehehe
  12. If the stock is a Remmington, care to trade it for my Eddystone? I'll foot the bills for shipping.
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