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Military Firearm Restoration Corner

trobi

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  1. i have a tool making company who will machine the stripper guide off my reciever. if i want them to also machine the crest off the front , will they also need to machine the same amount of metal off the rear or will it not make that much difference. Will the reciever need to be reheat treated? Thanks. kingsman OPERA NON VERBA
  2. since they compatable with the 98,are they better to use for intermediate rounds(308) or doesn't it matter. are they all the same and you just have to open them up for the 30.06. does the 30.06 and the 6.5x06 have the same o.a.l. to were you have to enlarge the mag.box?
  3. sailormilan, you left me a message in reference to having an extra barrel. i would be interested. how much and do i need to get crowned? you can e-mail me at trobi501@juno.com thanks
  4. tailgunner did you leave the barrel at 26in. or cut and recrown
  5. what is the consenses on the parker hale barrels that sarco sells. they list it as a 308 target barrel. it's 26in. long and in excellent condition. are these barrels any good? kingsman OPERA NON VERBA
  6. i went back and looked at the bolt sleeve lock and spring and was able to push it with my finger but it took alittle effort. i decided to put a shorter spring in it. this one with a wolf spring kit. reassembled the bolt and it made a big difference. it still isn't buttery smooth like my tika t3 but i live with it. i'll work on reciever smoothing it a bit and see if it gets better. when i sent this bolt out, i completly striped it and sent only what i wanted polished. when i got it back the bolt sleeve was togetherwith a spring. i'm wondering if he accidently put a wrong spring in it. does this sound logical? what is the best way of smoothing bolt rails?i don"t want to take to much off. i relly don't want to have to heat treat this reciever if i don't have to. thanks to everyone that has contributed. you can bet i'll have other questions. in fact there will be another one on a barrel i see for sale kingsman
  7. i worked a little on bolt clouser problem tonight with little success. i used a dremel and worked on the bottom root and front root.maybr i'm trying to be to carefull. if i put the stripped bolt in,it will fall into the locked down position with gravity. if i put the stripped sleeve on it will do the same. the safety tnnel shows no type of obstruction. the safety willmove easily in fact it seems loose. now, if i completly assemble the bolt and insert it into the reciever with the safety off, i canpush bolt forward easily and it will stop when it touchs the back of reciever. as i close the bolt there is a little stiffness and then the bolt will initially lock . when it does this, the bolt will actually move slightly to rear. i then have to push bolt forward and down to lock bolt. when i go pull back i have to pull bolt up and willraise ( with effort) until it locks. i then hve to push a little forward to finish raising bolt up. it then pulls to the rear effortlly. if i repeart this with safety on everything works smoothly. Now, i did notice when i had the reciever on my lap and watching everything move, that when i released the safety that it took more effort than i had expected and that the cocking piece would move up. when i putt the saftey on it was stiff and the cocking piece looked like it was being pulled or canted down. am i still dealling with a binding safety. i don't have alot hair that i can pull out. i was thinking about buying a stripped bolt and assemble it and watch everything function . hate to buy a bolt then i'll have to buy another reciever. can't have a lonely bolt. anymore suggestions, kingsman
  8. Z I did notch the reciever but I don't want to relieve it too much and ruin the reciever. How do I know what the limit is.? If I relieve the reciever won't it create a problem when I put the new stock on it? kingsman
  9. i did as you suggested and i found that the stripped bolt with the shroud on it i can't drop the safety in position. i can look in it and see back edge of bolt covering part of the tunnel. istarted to remove part of bolt root and it has gotten alot better. what i do notice is that when i start to close the fully assembled bolt it seems to lock and then it's stiff to close. as i close the bolt handle down it pulls the bolt forward. didn't notice this before handle work. by the way, all the bolt parts are original but did not send reciever when work was done. smith didn't requist it. am i on the right track and just have to take a little more off the root thanks, kingsman
  10. can't open or close bolt easily with the safety off.it is very difficult. with safety on it cycles great.if i take the timney trigger off i still have the problem unless i have the safety on. this the original safety. i tried a second bolt and had the same results. Now, both of these bolt have had their handles worked on. 1 was forged and the other supposedly had a new handle welded on(i have my doubts) both look very profesional. i did grind the reciever down so that the bolt closes. is it possible that i have to grind some more? i don't want to grind to much or am i looking at other problems. the original bolt worked good before the work. does something need to be heat treated< seems like i've seen something like this before. thanks, kingsman OPERA NON VERBA
  11. trobi

    Barrel Decisions

    Z, thinking of either 243, 6.5/55 maybe 308. i actually have 2 projects going on. was thinking about o 284 but don't know about that one. will the bolt face have to opened up and i don't know what the oal is kingsman
  12. trobi

    Barrel Decisions

    trying to decide what manufacture of barrel to get. i was thinking of going with either a loather walter,shilen or douglas. i have more selection with shilen, i believe. whats everyone prefer? i had thought of a A/B barrel. i have one on a 10/22 that built into a 50yd , 10rd, 0ne hole shooter but going to 100+ shooting i think i will want /need better quality. any suggestions kingsman OPERA NON VERBA
  13. thanks z , i figured you would know. kingsman
  14. i thought i'd ask this question, it might change my direction on build. will a cocking piece from a 98 military bolt fit a commercial bolt sleeve(fn belgium)? if not, can the cocking piece be modified to fit and how would one go about doing it? saw one for sale but they don't have the cocking piece. any help would be appreciated . thanks kingsman
  15. trobi

    Mauser Action

    the way that it is listed is;large ring98 w/ small ring threads. has thicker front ring than the true 98 reciever.it has standard mag well. does this describe the proper turk action
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