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Military Firearm Restoration Corner

Metal Checkering


Ron J

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I found a year old post about checkering metal using thread files. Z pointed out that a 3 corner curved wood checkering file works. I'll buy that - a file is a file. That being the case, wouldn't a regular checkering tool with a couple rows work as a spacer? I'm speaking of the Dem-Bart style with pin held tips. Not too expensive and I would assume easier to keep spacing correct. Anyone tried this?

 

Ron

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I've made checkering tools for wood. I suppose they'd work for soft steel too. You'd want to make them longer than for wood so that you could get a reasonable stroke, and you'd want to make the teeth as narrow as you could get them (which even with needle files isn't too narrow, and it would take a lot of time, and each tooth is a PITA [i know what I speak of]). After cutting the teeth you'd have to harden the cutter - this will tend to dull the teeth and I suspect that post hardening stoning would be required.

 

How the hell did the old timers make files? What a pain it the butt! How are files made today?

 

I can't believe I never thought about this before. Maybe there's a good reason that a good file is so expensive.

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Making checkering tools - you're a better man than me. This got started when I saw a bolt release checkered on top. The file costs 35-50 bucks. Not happening. Then Z says he does one line at a time with a 3 corner file. I'd never get the spacing right. So I thought why not a 32 LPI 4 row tip? I think you're right - it's a "file" pass on steel as opposed to a bunch of short stokes. No idea how files are made, but if you look close at a Nicholson #50 rasp, it isn't teeth. It's a series of little spheres in a weird pattern like a leopard. Kinda pricy, too.

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Walnut - that sounds like an old thread that I may have started. I ended up getting a thread chasing file from an auto parts store. It is four sided and double ended, giving 8 different thread spacings from 9 to 32 TPI. I tried using the 32 LPI on some scrap steel to set the lines, then deepened with a needle file. I never got the diamonds up to full point, but it looked promising if you were patient enough.

 

I gave up before I got that far. I wanted to try it on a bolt handle, but didn't feel confident enough to try on a Talley knob I have. I ended up opening the wallet and springing for a pre-checkered model from Brownells. (and it is FAR better than I could ever hope to attain!)

 

I may try it again on a bolt stop release...

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Yes, I think it was yours. I wouldn't try a bolt knob either. The bolt release I believe was done by making a little pad, checkering it and then silver soldering it on top of the release. I had thought I could weld/fill the area between the bump and angle down to the rec ring, then checker. I may buy a tip and mess with it for 3-4 dollars next order from Midway.

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